[HWYSTR455]

Also, rivnuts and thread-sert have different inserts for different materials' thickness. They only compress so far, so you have to make sure you use the correct insert for the job.

Generic ones usually have a wider range of compression, and are in some cases not intended for higher loads. For critical apps, you have to use the most optimal insert.



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[HWYSTR455]

Difference between a Thread-sert & Rivnut tool:


Blue = 'plyer type tool'

Red = 'Long arm type tool'



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[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Skip Fix

yea I always wondered about that happening. i guess maybe a tack weld woud fix it?

You can use a center punch and 'pin' around the hole to tighten them up. But in some cases is only a temporary fix.

Make sure you have a bolt in the hole before you start pinning.



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[78w72]

The rivnuts I mention & show in that other thread are steel from fastenal, they have a thin flange to avoid problems with the bracket.

Im not sure of the size of a 64gto sway bar bolt but if they are the common 3/8 size used on most 70's cars they use a standard 9/16 drill bit for the hole, they can also be installed with the bolt/washer/nut set up as shown in the vid links posted in that thread.

Reaching in from the front of the frame may be an option but removing the bumper or nose on some cars is a lot of work... and some cars you cant get a wrench in the frame to hold a bolt. Use a good rivnut and whatever tool you prefer but the bolt/nut tool works great, just gotta be sure you tighten the rivnut to compress it fully. The other suggestions will work too, rivnuts just seem to be the easiest option.

[66sprint6]

I knew a guy that had nothing but trouble with this. I believe that he kept making the hole too large or oval’ed out. So he ended up welding a stud to the frame.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by 78w72

...

Im not sure of the size of a 64gto sway bar bolt but if they are the common 3/8 size used on most 70's cars they use a standard 9/16 drill bit for the hole, they can also be installed with the bolt/washer/nut set up as shown in the vid links posted in that thread...

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It really depends on who makes the rivnut, the RIVETKING ones I use spec a 17/32 drill size.

Will stand by: Be SURE to use the correct size drill bit for the rivnut you use, from the same manufacturer.

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[HWYSTR455]

Fastenal also recommends a 17/32 drill size:

https://www.fastenal.com/product/details/0125626

https://www.fastenal.com/content/pro....RFH.YZ.06.pdf


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[78w72]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

It really depends on who makes the rivnut, the RIVETKING ones I use spec a 17/32 drill size.

Will stand by: Be SURE to use the correct size drill bit for the rivnut you use, from the same manufacturer.

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I agree it depends on the brand/type of rivnut/nutsert... never questioned verifying the hole size, always confirm that.

Some sources say 3/8 rivnuts use a 9/16 hole, some say 17/32 yet some say its a range of size depending on how tight you want the nutsert in the hole and that its best to measure the OD of the rivnut to determine size as they can vary.

When I asked the guy behind the counter at fastenal what size drill bit for the rivnut I bought, he blurted out 9/16 without hesitation, but the fastenal link does say 17/32. If it does require a 17/32 drill bit, general purpose ones are like $5-6 and easy to find at common home stores or hardware stores so thats not really a big deal.

https://yardandgardenguru.com/nutsert-drill-size-chart/

[72projectbird]

Originally Posted by 66sprint6

I knew a guy that had nothing but trouble with this. I believe that he kept making the hole too large or oval’ed out. So he ended up welding a stud to the frame.

When I take my subframe off this winter, I'm welding in nuts on the inside of the rails. The nuts and bolts work fine, but I figured while I'm in there, I'll make it permanent. I hate the threaded inserts.

It's an interesting feeling when you throw your car hard into a corner, and the front sway bar decides to stop working lol

[Formulas]

The last subframe i built the bolt hole threads were good but i still dropped in from the inside of the frame grade 8 allen head bolts torqued and loctited them in and used grade 8 nylock nuts to finish the 1.1/4 bar and poly bushings off with..... A bit of finesse and work but a lifetime of knowing there after no loose inserts no pulled threads nothing but confidence

[sdbob]

I've made thick plates with both holes for sway bar. Then tack welded them in place with sub frame off.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

There's a difference between a rivnut and a thread-sert. Both types come up on searching either of the 2 types, so KNOW what you're buying before you buy.

Have to use steel inserts, and the steel inserts of the rivnuts is what is used, so you can't use the 'plyers' type of tool, it has to be the longer arm type of tool.

I've mentioned this before, but you have to drill the proper size hole, and depending on the size you need, you will most likely have to by a fractional drill bit that's not normally available in sets, or even some hardware stores.

When a rivnut fails (spins), 99.999% of the time is because the incorrect hole size was drilled. Once it spins, you can use the size rivnut you used before, you have to go bigger.

Problem is when you go to a bigger hole, the bolt heads get bigger, and may not fit due to the U bend of the bar bushing bracket.

If you can reach in from the front of the frame horn, you could make a plate with 2 bolts in it, and fish it into the frame, having the bolts drop thru. You can use a steel plate and tap holes so the bolts don't have to be welded, etc.

You might have to take the front bumper off to get to the front opening of the frame horn.

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A lot of very GOOD info in HWYSTR455's post above.

You will have to remove the Front Bumper to do the job correctly.

If you install something WRONG you can't blame the hardware used or the parts used.

Never had an issue with the HO Racing "BIG FRONT BAR" WHEN you install the proper parts correctly using the proper tools.
Been on the car for many years without an issue.

I have a spare 1-1/4 bar if someone need one.

Tom V.

[64speed]

Local fab shop is gonna put threaded plate where the holes are. Apparently this is a problem with Factory stock jeeps

[Tom Vaught]

Hope their "fix" will do the job for you at the end of the day.

Tom V.

[64speed]

Originally Posted by sdbob

I've made thick plates with both holes for sway bar. Then tack welded them in place with sub frame off.

I didn’t think of this idea. I called our local fab shop thinking it would be $$$$$. He said that they had actually done this quite a few times just not on a 64 Pontiac. I will be Autocrossing a little in Clemson and I was mostly concerned about a failure.

[64speed]

Local Jeep fab shop drilled out the holes one size bigger, dropped bolts down thru the frame and tacked the bolts in place for 15 bucks. Now I have sway bar studs LOL. Just gotta put it back on

[steve25]

Good to hear, but what's going on with your power steering issue?

We have not heard a peep about that in 2 weeks.

[HWYSTR455]

On the 64 frame horns, is there an access hole to tack them? Maybe a bumper bolt pass-thru?

Just curious.

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[64speed]

Yes there is an access hole. Belt squeal stopped with a new belt just like magic.

[72projectbird]

Originally Posted by 64speed

Local Jeep fab shop drilled out the holes one size bigger, dropped bolts down thru the frame and tacked the bolts in place for 15 bucks. Now I have sway bar studs LOL. Just gotta put it back on

That's how ya do it! Sometimes the strongest fixes are the most simple.

I did the same on my TA. It's rock solid.