[PITTSBURGH 64]

I get a tick during cold start up. It's coming from the #3 intake valve. The #5 intake is also making noise when I put my stick against it. It quiets down after warm up but it's still there. It gets louder after I get on it or during deceleration.

I've switched lifters and have adjusted it many times. It has an adjustable valve train. I have it set at 0+1/8 turn. I make adjustments while it's running.

Any ideas?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_BlP5qb7Sw

The motor is a 455, 6 X 8 heavily ported, Crower 60919 with regular Johnson A-951 lifters, TRW forged pistons, forged rods.

The motor runs extremely well but the vacuum gauge drops to 0 when I open the throttle all the way...

Thank you,
Jeff

[400 Lemans]

That 1/8 preload just sounds to light to me.I have tried 1/4 in the past and got just a little bit of tap though not quite as loud as yours. Finally started doing 1/2 turns and it has stayed totally quiet so i have always stuck to that. If your like me, one thing i cant handle is a clattering valve train unless its a solid. Hope this helps.

[steve25]

Each full turn on a fine thread rocker stud makes of around a .030" to .035" change, so in my mind its not hard to see why they are clacking at times with only a 1/8" of a turn. Also if you are still using the stock rocker balls take a close look on those clackly rockers with a miagnafing glass and make sure they are not starting to split.
Also if you are using stock rockers and due to production tolerances the slot on those rockers may be too short for the valve lift you are running when the lifter is pumped all the way up.

[PITTSBURGH 64]

I don't think it's the adjustment. I can crank it down a full turn and it still chatters..
I bought the mill from Cliff a few years ago so I know everything was done right. I have about 60,000 miles on it now and I'm wondering if the valve guides are starting to loosen up....

It has the good Crane Gold 1.65 rockers...

The only thing that's concerning me is the chatter. It really hauls.. It runs so good I hate to take it apart... If the chatter isn't telling me something needs addressed, I'd be happy to leave it alone..

I put about 15,000 miles a year on it..

[grandville455]

Cam isn't starting to go is it?

[PITTSBURGH 64]

Darby, I hope not... I just ordered a set of 1233 gaskets and I'm going to open it up..

I put some Johnson inserts into the my old Rhoads lifter shells with some new snap rings. Funny thing was with the rhoads it was quiet on cold start up. I noticed the rhoads shells have more of a concaved base where they ride on the cam than the Johnsons...

Sometimes I just want to yank everything out and put a solid cam in it like we use to do back in the 70s
(was it the Isky E-3 or Crower Monarch?? ) ..

I think I drive too many miles a year for a roller set up....

[wheelspin]

Hey Jeff,

I set the lash @ 1/2 turn from zero preload (as determined by moving the pushrod up & down, NOT rotating it), and it is normal to have zero vacuum when first fully opening the throttle.

You may have created a problem by combining the Johnson & Rhoads lifter parts, as the internal clearances are VERY tight in hydraulic lifters and ALL service manuals recommend working on/ cleaning ONE lifter @ a time as they are precision fitted @ the time of manufacture. Ask me how I know .

I suggest that since you are obviously sensitive to valve train noises of any type; run cast v-covers instead of stamped, drive w/ the windows up (add a/c?), install headers and a 3" exhaust system, turn up the volume on the 8-track, and do not even consider using solids which sound just like the Rhoads, which is where you started. "If it ain't broke don't fix it" .

How's the race car coming along .

Les

[PITTSBURGH 64]

Thanks for the good news on the vacuum Les.. I was concerned. I love this engine, I have a blast with this car at the street races....

Both the Johnson and Rhoads lifters look exactly alike the only difference seems to be the Rhoads bleed slot. But I trust your input. Good thing I kept everything in order so it can go back to it's original spot..

I missed out on that 64 Lemans. I know the 64 A body is the car I would like to built... Like Mick suggested, I'm looking for a beater that I'll just primer and put some chrome reverse on...

[HWYSTR455]

I'm a 1/2 turn kind of guy too, sometimes even 3/4s, depends if it makes noise or not. Could just have a sticky valve, toss some mystery oil in there and go for it until next change, might help. Could even do the top cyl cleaner trick. How many miles on this engine?


.

[HWYSTR455]

What weight oil are you running?


.

[PITTSBURGH 64]

15-40 Rotella with a qt of Rislone...

[HWYSTR455]

That sounds good. Maybe step up to 20-50? How many miles on it you think? Roughly?


.

[PITTSBURGH 64]

About 60,000. I do think it may be the valves sticking... When I look down the intake port the valve stems are a little gunked up...

Don't they make a combustion chamber cleaner today? We use to use water...

I'm going to do a compression test soon.... The vacuum gauge is steady for this size cam...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zt6_3gpY-Lg

[HWYSTR455]

Yeah, like I said, maybe some marvel mystery oil, or the gm top cyl cleaner. You could do the atf/water trickle thing too, but think the other choices are better. I add atf to the water as a lubricant and cleaner, but that's like the 'water' thing you're talking about. I've never used seafoam, not sure if I'd trust it. The mystery oil you can run in the gas & oil, though after a gm top cyl clean, you should change the oil, fyi. I'm pretty sure they still make the top cyl cleaner, don't they? Basically a combustion chamber cleaner, which I believe what seafoam says it is.


.

[PITTSBURGH 64]

All it needed was a good run through the hollow.....The valves must of been gunked up from all the winter idling... She's ready for this years 15,000 miles.....

My motor runs better with C-I 15/40 Rotella.....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sFR0R6pPC0w

[grandville455]

Jeff she is begging for the track!!!