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| The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#1
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I have to put a patch on a fender, which gives me a reason to try and learn to weld.
Is this welder on sale at Eastwood for $299 good enough quality or should I look for a name brand ? http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-1...5a-output.html I have read a lot of advice on this forum and seems the features on this Eastwood are desireable, but others recommend spending more for a name brand. Seems any name brand with a switched voltage control will run $350 and up (like this Hobart http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...ven=Aggregates), and one with a rheostat like the Eastwood will be over $500. I would rather buy from Eastwood than Harbor Fright, but maybe there are other off-brands that are better than this Eastwood for the money? Thanks for any feedback on the Eastwood or recommendations for a low-cost alternative. |
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#2
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I have this welder myself and it has been trouble free. The price is also right. However, if I were to do it again - I would have been better off to purchase the 220 volt. The 110volt is too small for welding anything except sheetmetal. Thats my 2 cents
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#3
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My first MIG was a Craftsman (rebranded Century) that I used for about 8 years, and did everything from sheetmetal welding to building a 5 x 10 utility trailer with 3/16" tubing. You can extend the usefullness of the 120V welders when welding thicker metals like 3/16" by using flux core wire, as it burns hotter and penetrates better than MIG...however for sheetmetal you definitely want to use solid wire & gas.
I have since upgraded to a 210A 240V Hobart Handler (similar to your second link) and love it. My advice is to evaluate if you ever plan on doing other fabricating, like building/repairing trailers, fences, etc., and if so, consider a 240V machine. It may cost more now but will be cheaper than buying 2 machines over the long run. Also consider if you ever think you will want to weld aluminum, as the bigger units (like Hobarts 187 or 210 Handlers) can add a spool gun for aluminum. Last thing to consider is portability...while alot of the 240V machines are the same general size as the 120V machines, if you ever need to weld something small at a friend's house you will likley not have the right outlet nearby, compared to a 120V unit. In this case the 120V machine is a plus for some situations. (True story, the day after I bought my 120V machine many years ago, my buddy asked me to go into his new house and weld a broken railing on a spiral metal staircase going to his second floor....could never have done with my current 240V machine.)
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Michael 1970 Oshawa built 1 option Judge. 24 year restoration/upgrade project finally finished! 1979 Trans Am - low-buck drag car project for when I retire |
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#4
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Thanks to you both.
I simply don't have access to 220V, but understand and appreciate the advice about "more power" is more versatile. This Eastwood advertises as much current as any other 120V unit, and at this price including a gas regulator, I am talking myself into it. If I actually learn to weld, you are probably right about regretting it someday, but until (if) I move, worrying about a larger welder is probably a secondary consideration. |
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#5
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If I were buying a new MIG welder right now, I'd look into the new Millers that run on both 110 and 220. Pricier than what you are looking at, but probably worth it in the long run.
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#6
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I have a Lincoln 3200 HD 135 amp 110v mig welder and it works fine. It will weld up to 5/16" thick metal and I can adjust the heat settings in 4 different selections.
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1971 Pontiac GT-37 Car is a junk yard dog and maybe one day will be restored. ![]() |
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#7
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I have one of the Eastwood welders you mentioned and it works great. I've probably gone thru 3-4 spools of wire in it and several bottles of gas and its it worked/welded flawlessly.
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74 GTO Bracket/Street car and another 74 for the wifey to race with! 70 GTO 400, 4 spd, #'s matching and a little to nice for me to own. Friendship is like peeing your pants..everyone can see it but only you can feel the warmth! |
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#8
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Thanks all.
I ordered the Eastwood to save some money, and I'm sure it will be great for me to try and learn with. |
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#9
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We have one and use it every single day. Not an issue yet. Almost a year old. Haven't found a need yet that it didn't meet.
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Paul FAST Automotive -The Pontiac restoration shop, not the fuel injection guys! I had the name first. My site... needs updated- www.fastrestorations.com 68 GTO's (RA II, RA I, HO, convert, Pro Street, Racecar, etc.), 2 69 GTO Judges, 70 GTO racecar -10.77 @ 124mph, 68 Tempest survivor, 3 03 Aztecs! |
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#10
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Quote:
Follow up? I am looking into this welder as a second welder. I only have the flux core style. Not that pretty welds... But does weld thick stuff!! Thanks! Dave
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1967 Pontiac Tempest 2dr HRDTP Coupe 468 C.I. 500 HP 5 speed = FUN!!! 1990 Chevy Suburban R2500 Daily Driver 1986 Volvo DL245 Wagon.. Project car!!! The Burb Files |
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#11
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I can't tell you yet. I have only been learning with flux-core so far, as I am still struggling with the basics and I'm not sure I'll spend the $150 on a gas cylinder if I can get it done with the flux-core. I don't care so much how it looks if I can get it done. All my welds are comical, but has nothing to do with the welder, which seems to work fine. The wire feed has been consistent so far. I think it will be a while before I touch my fender with the thing, but there's hope. I've been practicing on 26-mil (22-24 gauge) steel from Home Depot and I sometimes get the blob to penetrate without blowing holes, so I think an experienced welder would have no trouble.
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#12
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Yeah, that is inherent with FLUX core welding. This is the reason I want the gas. The welds come out nicer. Less slag. Since less slag, less grinding.!
If you have a GTS-Welco close this might help. 20lb bottle is cheaper. You dont NEED a big bottle, but will have to fill it more. http://www.gts-welco.com/gts-welco.aspx?pcid=33&ptid=1 Thanks!
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1967 Pontiac Tempest 2dr HRDTP Coupe 468 C.I. 500 HP 5 speed = FUN!!! 1990 Chevy Suburban R2500 Daily Driver 1986 Volvo DL245 Wagon.. Project car!!! The Burb Files |
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#13
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Why waste your time learning to weld with a wire feed welder using flux core if you want a nice weld? I'd spend the money on the gas cylinder and concentrate on learning how to MIG weld. The two are VERY different!
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Paul FAST Automotive -The Pontiac restoration shop, not the fuel injection guys! I had the name first. My site... needs updated- www.fastrestorations.com 68 GTO's (RA II, RA I, HO, convert, Pro Street, Racecar, etc.), 2 69 GTO Judges, 70 GTO racecar -10.77 @ 124mph, 68 Tempest survivor, 3 03 Aztecs! |
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#14
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OK, thanks Paul. I didn't know there was a big difference in learning with or without gas. I knew the welds would look better with gas, but I'm still figuring out how to pull the trigger. I just called the local welding supply and they want $157 + tax for a full 46 cf cylinder, which sounds like a rip. There is a Praxair location close by - I'll try them on Monday.
Dave - Thanks for that link. I am on the other coast, so that company is not near. How long will a 20 cf cylinder last? I think the fill charge is a better deal the larger the cylinder, so I thought it might make sense to get the 46 cf size. |
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#15
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It really depends on how many welds.
The shop I used to work at, had a Lincoln mig welder with the big bottle. Lasted for ever. That thing was always welding!!! For home use the 20lb would probably last more than a year with moderate welding. If you are starting a frame off, then you might want to get a bigger bottle.
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1967 Pontiac Tempest 2dr HRDTP Coupe 468 C.I. 500 HP 5 speed = FUN!!! 1990 Chevy Suburban R2500 Daily Driver 1986 Volvo DL245 Wagon.. Project car!!! The Burb Files |
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#16
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I took the advice and ordered a gas cylinder online from a site called Cyberweld. Free shipping on a full cylinder at about the same price as Dave's link. Hope it reduces the blob factor for me. I ordered the 40cf, which sounds like it should last a long time. Thanks for the help as always.
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#17
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Keep me posted. I am very close to purchasing this. For the money it can not be beat. You will be amazed at how much better the welds will be.
Flux core is an art, and you can get great welds on thicker material. But the smaller stuff really does need the gas. Thanks! Dave
__________________
1967 Pontiac Tempest 2dr HRDTP Coupe 468 C.I. 500 HP 5 speed = FUN!!! 1990 Chevy Suburban R2500 Daily Driver 1986 Volvo DL245 Wagon.. Project car!!! The Burb Files |
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#18
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Get the gas set up. It's worth it. When I refill the tank, it's about $45. And get a big spool of wire. Don't mess around with the 2 pound spool. You'll run out in the middle of your project. Last tip.....when you are done welding for the night, close the valve on the tank. I left mine open one night and had no gas to weld the next day. Must have had a leak in the fittings.
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Project "Thanks Dad!" |
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#19
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I bought a 20 cf tank at first. But the place where I got the tank let me trade it in for a 40 cf after I ran it dry for just little more and the next time I ran out I traded in for a 60 cf. Doing it that way I had just the initial outlay, then just small amounts at a time. Didn't hurt so bad on the old wallet.
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#20
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Quote:
That might be the way to go. I would most likely start with the 40 or 60 and work up too. I think a 60 for me would be more than enough. Just plan ahead and maybe have a 20 for back up or something..
__________________
1967 Pontiac Tempest 2dr HRDTP Coupe 468 C.I. 500 HP 5 speed = FUN!!! 1990 Chevy Suburban R2500 Daily Driver 1986 Volvo DL245 Wagon.. Project car!!! The Burb Files |
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