[bigunde]

Wanting to build another 455 for my 66 Tempest and already have a 30 over 400 block. Question is where is the best place to buy the 400/455 crank and will i need to buy anything "special" to put this combo together? Thanks

[GOAT WHORE]

I would go with Butler or Super Duty Performance. They both have complete rotating assemblies.

[HWYSTR455]

The Butler 461 stroker kit is a deal.

.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

The Butler 461 stroker kit is a deal.

.

I agree! This is hard to beat!

http://www.butlerperformance.com/pro...s.html#462_468

455-468 cu. in.
for 400-428-455 block

New Crank 4.210" Stroke
3.00" or 3.250" Main for 400-428-455 Blocks
Forged Pistons .030", .040" - .060" over (.030” & .060” over w/ROSS pistons)
6.625" forged rods
Pin Fitted
Seal-Power or Total Seal Rings
FM/CL Rod and Main Bearings
Balanced Internally
Specify 3.00" or 3.250" Mains

455-468 cu. in. Rotating Assembly
KEITH BLACK FORGED ICON PISTONS & I-Beam Forged Rods (press-fit)
$1399.00

455-468 cu. in. Rotating Assembly
KEITH BLACK FORGED ICON PISTONS & H-Beam Forged Rods (bushed)
$1579.00

455-468 cu. in. Rotating Assembly
ROSS Forged Pistons & H-Beam Forged Rods
$1649.00

455-468 cu. in. Rotating Assembly
ROSS Forged Pistons & H-Beam Rods
& 4340 Forged Crank
$2049 (3.00" main)
$2099 (3.25" main)


If this is a street car and not a RACE car this is hard to beat for $1,399.00 ! I would get the "Total Seal" rings along with having them assemble pistons and rods (if press fit is used) so the price would go up, but for a balanced assembly this is cheap. A balance job cost me $200.00.
Just because this is a "Kit" doesn't mean it will be perfect; you should still check all measurements yourself during assembly.


Karl

[HWYSTR455]

Nice thing about the Butler kits is it's not just a bunch of parts tossed into a box. They go over it, and it's usually pretty spot-on. Sure they're may be exceptions, so checking is always advised.

.

[400 plus]

I've bought two from Butler and am happy as hell with both sales. Sevice after the sale can't be beat. .02

[1969GTO]

I bought the Butler kit 5yrs. ago. Great deal,quality parts
Attachment 306026

[boater bill]

I used a stock 455 crank and cut the mains down to the 400 3" and used Ken Keefer's shim and main bearing solution. About 1500 miles so far with no issues what so ever.

Make sure to clearance the block for the 455 crank throws.

[old66tiger]

Whatever it is, make it a forged assy.

[GOAT WHORE]

Originally Posted by old66tiger

Whatever it is, make it a forged assy.

Really, no matter what? A cast crank won't be good enough to spin up to say 5500 or even 6000 rpm? If I had the money I would get a forged crank as well but most cranks street driven are cast and do fine.

[ID67goat]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Nice thing about the Butler kits is it's not just a bunch of parts tossed into a box. They go over it, and it's usually pretty spot-on. Sure they're may be exceptions, so checking is always advised.

.

Maybe I was unlucky with my Butler (shortblock) kit as it had a few problems. The rotating assembly balance was off, the mains were out of round like the main studs were added after the fact, and the crank thrust surface was too rough and ate up the bearing, to name a few.

Take it as you will as this was just my experience. As HWYSTR455 stated, the best thing you can do is have everything checked out. With that said, I wouldn't waste my money buying already balanced etc. I think you would be better off buying the parts and having a reputable shop check all the dimensions and balance it for you.

[1969GTO]

mines a cast crank, when I race and yes just test n tune days I shift my 400/462 @ 5500 and no problems.

[old66tiger]

From what I have heard, there are too many variables in the aftermarket cast arena. Ask Cliff what he has seen with respect to stress fractures on the new Chinese cast units. If it was a original nodular unit, then I would be all for it. For $400 more...a forged crank allows me to sleep a little better at night.

[Goathead]

Originally Posted by ID67goat

Maybe I was unlucky with my Butler (shortblock) kit as it had a few problems. The rotating assembly balance was off, the mains were out of round like the main studs were added after the fact, and the crank thrust surface was too rough and ate up the bearing, to name a few.

Take it as you will as this was just my experience. As HWYSTR455 stated, the best thing you can do is have everything checked out. With that said, I wouldn't waste my money buying already balanced etc. I think you would be better off buying the parts and having a reputable shop check all the dimensions and balance it for you.

Just a question. Did you do all the extra machine work and assembly, or did you have someone else do it?

[Tim Corcoran]

I have a cast crank 3.5 mains 5.21 bore X 4.25 stroke in a 455 block in my 65 LeMans bracket car. This the third cast crank I have had in this engine over the past 17 years. The engine started out as a street/strip low 12 second car. Over the years as I upgraded with different cams and heads it moved up to an 11 second street/strip machine and eventually moved into the 10's and got her a trailer and she retired from street duty. This car did bracket racing, street racing and thousands of hard street miles. This was with an OEM cast crank that was stroked. After several years of street strip bashing during the first freshen up I found some very small cracks in the rod journal radius and installed a new 455 OEM cast crank. After several more years of service during the next freshen up found small cracks again and installed an aftermarket cast crank from Ohio Crankshaft. I had this crank cryogenically treated and have had this crank in the motor for a few years now with just bracket racing and no problems. This engine was making over 500 HP when it was a street machine and now that it is in the low 10's making well over 600HP I would say the cast crank is holding up pretty good. I'm running 6.8 Eagle H-Beams and J&E's. Shift at 5800 and go thru the traps at 6,000.

I would say for a street car with 450 HP or less a cast crank should work fine and last a long time.

[WDCreech]

Originally Posted by Tim Corcoran

I have a cast crank 3.5 mains 5.21 bore X 4.25 stroke in a 455 block in my 65 LeMans bracket car.

Are you sure? All of the 455s that I've seen had 3.25 mains and a 4.21 (at .060 over) bore and a 4.21 stroke, unless it was offset ground to make the 4.25.

[ID67goat]

Originally Posted by Goathead

Just a question. Did you do all the extra machine work and assembly, or did you have someone else do it?

I had the machine shop that I use do the extra machine work and assembly.

[iceman411]

When I bought my rotating assy from KRE, an Eagle forged crank wasn't available. This was like '08 or so.... Mine is a cast Eagle crank with the 6.8" rod with a 3.25", 2 bolt studded mains. I wouldn't be too concerned with spinning a cast crank(well, I do have the light weight Ross pistons and pins) and I shift it at 6500 just about everytime I've had it out... 30 passes or so at the track and under 800 miles since I put it together... Maybe I'm lucky yet I do remember about a month after I had my motor up and running the forged crank came out... If I had to do it again, I would go with a forged crank even though my cast crank has done well... My 2 ¢... Mike

[Tim Corcoran]

3.5 was a typo, 3.25 main journals of course. Yes it was/is a 4.25 stroke, I did say it was stroked didn't I?