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#1
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Frame reinforcement braces
When I bought my 67 gto I knew the frame was broken behind the rear wheel. The car was originally an automatic car. When I removed the frame I replaced the rear section and fixed the frame. I since then switched the car to a 4-speed. I had looked around for some time for a set of used original frame braces that connect the rear upper and lower control arms and I noticed most of them had been repaired around the bolt holes. I need up ordering a new set of braces and they seem a little thin for a brace but they do seem sturdy. I was wondering if it would be a good idea to set them in place then weld a washer to them around the holes for added strength. I don't intend to race the car but seeing as how I'm only 20 I can guarantee the car will see some hard launches.
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1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/251@.050, .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
#2
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I just addressed this same issue. My fix was to buy black Phosfhate grade eight flange bolts and flange locking nuts to replace the factory bolts. Im not building concource so its an easy fix. I used them in the front suspension also. You can buy it all on Ebay. I buy from the vendor boltbarn very reasonable prices. Scott.
The size I used was 1/2-13x3 1/2 |
#3
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Sounds like you already purchased a set of stock type braces. If not, these pieces from Global West are really beefy and are adjustable.
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Mick Batson 1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon. |
#4
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I bought the Factory type that PY & Ames sells back in 1990 and I have had no issues since.
-Don
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1966 GTO 1966 421-9.3-1 comp-Race Tec 23cc Pistons 1966 Tri-Power 1967 670 Heads Pontiac "Highlift" TriPower Cam by SpeedPro DUR 214 Int 224 Exh @.050 - 107 ICL LIFT .445" Int .465" Exh Tri-Y-Headers by Tribal Tubes w/ Goerlich Mufflers 1966 Muncie Wide Ratio 4-Speed 1968-72 Chevy 12 Bolt Rear End w/ 3.73 rear gears |
#5
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You would be shocked at how much all that stuff moves around from the factory, any bracing helps. The factory braces are flimsy at best.
I do the entire set for the rear on all my a-bodies, forget the OE stuff. A bunch of vendors make, and you can too. Global West, UMI, PST, the list is almost endless. If there's a spot that sees stress, sure, beef it. But that may just lead to welding all over the frame! .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
#6
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FWIW, I found that by shopping around, CPP had the braces for about $70, $30 - $40 cheaper than anyone else. I bought a pair and they're adjustable, and nicely made. The stock ones, well, they're just there.
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"GTO......Gas, Tires and Overdraft"! '70 GTO convertible, 434, 4-speed |
#7
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The stock braces don't need to be all that beefy.
The brace is in tension, as is the upper control arm. The lower control arm is in compression, which is why we box it. K
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'63 LeMans Convertible '63 Grand Prix '65 GTO - original, unrestored, Dad was original owner, 5000 original mile Royal Pontiac factory racer '74 Chevelle - original owner, 9.85 @ 136 mph besthttp://www.superchevy.com/features/s...hevy-chevelle/ My Pontiac Story: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=560524 "Intro from an old Assembly Plant Guy":http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342926 |
The Following User Says Thank You to Keith Seymore For This Useful Post: | ||
#8
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Yes I did already purchase the factory style braces. I think I'm going to go ahead and weld a reinforcement washer for good measure.
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1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/251@.050, .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
#9
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If you want you can add some additional bracing to the factory braces so it will give it a little more of a boxed effect which will give you a little more support.
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#10
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tension/compression
Good comments Keith. I learned about those issues building wooden roof trusses. The concepts apply to a whole lot of different areas.
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#11
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There have been some interesting threads in the pro-touring site and beefing up the chassis. From gussets to home made reinforcecment bars.
Schwartz Performance has some interesting videos on how much the stock frames flex. Mostly showing torsional flex. Jump to 4:00 in on this video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6OzNj1WSOo I alsways found it a bit interesting that on my old 77 GP they had some reinforcement bars on the front crossmember. |
The Following User Says Thank You to rohrt For This Useful Post: | ||
#12
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The FIRST thing to be done to reduce frame flex--aside from repairing cracks or other defects in the frame--is to replace the body bushings and hardware.
The frame is incredibly flexible, if not outright flimsy. It requires the body to support it. http://www.chevelles.com/techref/body_bushings.html |
#13
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Hjones, or anyone else, have you installed the CPP Braces?
I saw them on Ebay and they look nice, but I am wondering if they might cause clearance issues with my mufflers etc. The QA1 style ones don't appear to be as heavy duty(and are more expensive) but they look like they might have more clearance. Anyone have photos of the QA1 or CPP Trailing Arm Braces installed? |
#14
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I used the Edelbrock pieces that are tubular.
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#15
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Thanks for the photo.
Those are a similar(perhaps identical) design to the QA1s and it appears they take up less room than the CPP style. Anyone have photos of either style with mufflers installed? |
#16
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Hmm I never thought about alternatives other than factory style braces. I already ordered them and have them installed. I set them in place and welded a washer around each hole. Good piece of mind I guess. Thanks everyone!
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1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/251@.050, .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
#17
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In this case the factory stuff works just fine. The only reason I went with the Edelbrocks was that I had a credit on the some other things. Good luck on your project.
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#18
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Quote:
So talking to Marc from SC&C a few weeks back he mentioned that they are developing a new bolt in front brace for in front of the engine cradle on 64-72 A body cars. Maybe its like the one you had on your 77'GP? He already has a G body brace for sale.
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-1967 GTO HO Restomod. PKMM 433ci, SilverSport T56 Magnum 6spd, Moser 9", SC&C and a bunch of other pro touring goodies - Build Thread http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...615847&page=23 |
#19
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Quote:
You have to look for them in these two but they do kind of show how they are positioned relative to the muffler...
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-1967 GTO HO Restomod. PKMM 433ci, SilverSport T56 Magnum 6spd, Moser 9", SC&C and a bunch of other pro touring goodies - Build Thread http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...615847&page=23 |
#20
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I made my own and welded them in pretty simple
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www.bowhanger.com 468 poncho powered 66 cutlass 77 Trans http://s1059.beta.photobucket.com/us...rnout.mp4.html |
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