[nodwyer]

Hi, I am doing a disk conversion and a suspension kit rebuild to my 66. Those control arms look like a lot of work, how important is it to replace those bushings which i have as a part of the kit.

[HJones1313]

If your old bushings are dried out and cracked, it'll make a huge difference. Did your car shake, rattle and roll going over railroad tracks? Now imagine going over the same tracks in a new car; thats the difference it makes.

[indymanjoe]

Do it now,huge difference.

[HWYSTR455]

You can get a set of tubular upper and lower control arms fairly inexpensive, seen and used ones from ebay that were under $300. It's hard to beat that for cost and peformance. And they come with bushings already in them.

Here's the type I used on the clone, $255 for the upper & lower set, free shipping:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/64-72-Chevel...bd9a14&vxp=mtr

You can offset the cost by selling your original control arms if you choose, probably get $100-$175 for yours.

.

[redhook98]

To bad I can't get tubulars for my 63 GP... :-(

[Ventura455]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

You can get a set of tubular upper and lower control arms fairly inexpensive, seen and used ones from ebay that were under $300. It's hard to beat that for cost and peformance. And they come with bushings already in them.

Here's the type I used on the clone, $255 for the upper & lower set, free shipping:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/64-72-Chevel...bd9a14&vxp=mtr

You can offset the cost by selling your original control arms if you choose, probably get $100-$175 for yours.

.

Those tublar arms are very heavy and do not allow for proper alignment. I know ,I bought a set and installed them on my car and could not get the alignment anywhere near close so i took them off and sent them back.The way to go with the stock arms is the Global West delalum bushings and offset shafts.I was able to get 3 i/2 degrees of caster and set the camber anywhere I wanted it.The stock rubber bushings suck and allow for too much deflection under load.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Ventura455

Those tublar arms are very heavy and do not allow for proper alignment. I know ,I bought a set and installed them on my car and could not get the alignment anywhere near close so i took them off and sent them back.The way to go with the stock arms is the Global West delalum bushings and offset shafts.I was able to get 3 i/2 degrees of caster and set the camber anywhere I wanted it.The stock rubber bushings suck and allow for too much deflection under load.

Hm, that's odd, what body style was that on, an X or something? Like I said, I got a set for the clone, work great, no problem with alignment. Granted, it is a 68-72, but believe they are the same for 1st gen A bodies.

They are a little heavier than stock, but that's the point, the stock flex like crazy, and crack. Especially with added side loads.

.

[nodwyer]

Should I replace the centerlink between the tie rods. It doesnt come with a rebuild kit and wondering if those wear out. Thanks

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by nodwyer

Should I replace the centerlink between the tie rods. It doesnt come with a rebuild kit and wondering if those wear out. Thanks

Yeah, the one end is a joint, and they wear out, so I would, especially if you're doing the whole thing. Why take a chance.

.

[HJones1313]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Hm, that's odd, what body style was that on, an X or something? Like I said, I got a set for the clone, work great, no problem with alignment. Granted, it is a 68-72, but believe they are the same for 1st gen A bodies.

They are a little heavier than stock, but that's the point, the stock flex like crazy, and crack. Especially with added side loads.

.

Just wondering, did you use the stock alignment specs?

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by HJones1313

Just wondering, did you use the stock alignment specs?

No, because I believe stock is like zero caster or something, and very little or no camber, which is part of the point with the aftermarket control arms. Think I did like +2 to +2.5 caster, and like -.5 camber.

I did an f-spindle swap, and switched to uppers that are made for the swap. Think I'm in the 3.5 to 4 range on caster now.

I sold the uppers to another guy, he's using them, and sure he would have mentioned if they didn't work for him.

Ventura455 - Was the car you were using these on the Ventura or another A-body?

.

[HJones1313]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

No, because I believe stock is like zero caster or something, and very little or no camber, which is part of the point with the aftermarket control arms. Think I did like +2 to +2.5 caster, and like -.5 camber.

I did an f-spindle swap, and switched to uppers that are made for the swap. Think I'm in the 3.5 to 4 range on caster now.

I sold the uppers to another guy, he's using them, and sure he would have mentioned if they didn't work for him.

Ventura455 - Was the car you were using these on the Ventura or another A-body?

.

The reason I ask is if Ventura455 was trying to get a stock alignment with the tubular arms, which they may not be able to do.

[HWYSTR455]

Hm, that's possible...

.

[Ventura455]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

No, because I believe stock is like zero caster or something, and very little or no camber, which is part of the point with the aftermarket control arms. Think I did like +2 to +2.5 caster, and like -.5 camber.

I did an f-spindle swap, and switched to uppers that are made for the swap. Think I'm in the 3.5 to 4 range on caster now.

I sold the uppers to another guy, he's using them, and sure he would have mentioned if they didn't work for him.

Ventura455 - Was the car you were using these on the Ventura or another A-body?

.

I own a 72 Ventura. The caster I did not check because with the arms bolted on with no shims the camber was 1 1/2 degrees neg.More shims makes for more neg. With the global west delalum bushings and off set shafts I now have 0 camber at ride height and 3 1/2 degrees of pos caster.I also have the afco greasable steel bushings in the lower arms. I have no issues of control ams cracking and I beat on this car. It does over 130 in the qtrmile and it drives nice and straight.

[HWYSTR455]

Yeah, control arms for X bodies and A bodies are different, not sure why they list the same part number for those applications. On the one ebay auction I noted comments that the control arms aren't the same.

I so dig the action shot! Sweet!

.

[nodwyer]

Ok, finally got the lower control arm and spring out of one side. Whewwww. Took a look at the upper i hope its easier. Not sure weather to take out the side bolts or the bolts with the spacers in them. I guess i will try both

[redhook98]

Originally Posted by nodwyer

Ok, finally got the lower control arm and spring out of one side. Whewwww. Took a look at the upper i hope its easier. Not sure weather to take out the side bolts or the bolts with the spacers in them. I guess i will try both

The two bolts with the spacers are what attaches the control arm to the chassis. Those are what you take off in order to remove your control arm.

[nodwyer]

So i took off the nuts with the shims in and there is not enough clearance to slide the arm off of the bolts because the arm hits the headers. It looks like the bolts are welded in is this normal? what now.

[abefromen]

They're not welded they are splined interference fit. Tap them in with a hammer. Dont put a socket on the heads and spin them you will screw up the splines on the bolts. Ask me how I know.

New ones here if you need:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/64-74-Upper-...2f3ed9&vxp=mtr

[Joel Koontz]

They are a splined/interference fit from the factory. You will need to tap them out if they are as installed by the factory.

If a prior owner turned them and enlarged the holes, they may have welded the replacements in so that they would not turn when installing the nuts. If they were welded in, removing them may be difficult so pulling the headers may be the better option.