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#1
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Where do you guys order new axle seals and bearings for your pontiac 8.2 rear ends? I'm having a difficult finding the correct parts.
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1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/[email protected], .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
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#2
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Have had good luck with NAPA
Gerry
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1968 Firebird 400, 068 cam, TH400 & 13" Continental Converter, Auburn posi with 3:08 factory gears, Cliff's Q-jet resting on a 68 factory iron intake, GM HEI and Ram Air pans and RARE Long Branch Manifolds |
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#3
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Try Randys Ring and Pinion. The have everything.
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#4
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Napa lists BRG RW507CR but this is not going to look like the oe bearings because it's a sealed assembly that comes with a locking retaining ring. This was listed for a 67 GTO but i've used this style bearing for my 66 Tempests I had and didn't have any problems with it.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...7CR_0172574050
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Illinois Outlaw Gassers 6.27@107 9.97@131 |
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#5
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Quote:
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1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/[email protected], .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
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#6
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Contact MONZAZ on the forums here. He has it all at a good price. He hooked me up with everything for my 70 Olds rear and the 64 Buick rear in the 65 I'm doing now. Very helpful.
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#7
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1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/[email protected], .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
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#8
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1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/[email protected], .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
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#9
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Yes I would get the one with the locking ring, it's a one time use.
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Illinois Outlaw Gassers 6.27@107 9.97@131 |
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#10
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If that's the seal they call for than it's for the original style set up. Someone correct me if i'm wrong but you don't need an extra axle seal with the sealed bearings. I never put one on mine and no leaks.
Quote:
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Illinois Outlaw Gassers 6.27@107 9.97@131 |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Bill Eveland For This Useful Post: | ||
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#11
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Alright, I'm going to order new bearings and flange gaskets. I see that it's listed that 4 are needed per car, I thought it was only 2?
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1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/[email protected], .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
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#12
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RW507CR is the correct sealed axle bearing. The R in RW507CR is for the retainer. The axle seals are inboard, up in the axle tubes & you will need two National 8594S's.
Make 100% sure there is no wear in the axle mating area. It should be the same thickness where the lock collar & axle bearing are pressed on. If there is any evidence of the sealed bearing seizing & chewing of the axle, the axle should be replaced.
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Buzzards gotta eat... same as worms. |
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#13
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Quote:
So now I guess my question is: do I need the national bearings and seals or will just the sealed bearings and new flange gaskets do?
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1967 GTO, 432 (428+.030), 4-bolt mains, factory Nodular crank, scat rods, icon dished pistons, Lunati HR 243/[email protected], .618/.622 lift, Edelbrock 72cc round port heads, 10.5:1, offy 2-4 intake, Edelbrock 650cfm carbs, Super T10 trans (2.64 first), BOP 10 bolt w/ Eaton posi and 3.36 gears |
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#14
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National will be the seals, that is Federal Mouls line of seals. Bearings, most likely will be Timken, Federal Mogul (Bower-BCA). Don't accept Chinese bearings like the Partsmaster line.
On the seal, I'd replace the seals, they're most likely 45 years old. What seems to make them go bad is when a sealed axle bearing seizes & chews up the axle, the axle then has more movement up & down,side to side & the old axle seal is opened up slightly. With the sealed axle bearings being permanently lubricated internally, there is not supposed to be rearend grease out on them. The axle seal stops the grease from reaching out there. Later, tapered axle bearings require the lubrication of the axle grease & as a result have an external seal.
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Buzzards gotta eat... same as worms. |
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#15
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The gasket between the backing plate and axle are made of metal original.Then you have a paper gasket on the brake side.
Always replace the oil sealing ring in the axle when replacing bearings,very low cost. And use Loctite 641 on the outer bearing ring to prevent spinning in the axlehouse. DO NOT use Loctite 638,it`s VERY strong and you are gonna need inductive heat to get it loose. Like `ol Pinion head said: Make sure that the shaft is in good condition.One of mine was welded under the bearing and it snapped.Very nasty experience!! |
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#16
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Yes, you still need the seals. They keep the gear lube away from the back of the bearing where otherwise it may find its way past the bearing and into your brake drums.
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