[i82much]

I am indexing my bellhousing and I am using the RobbMc offset dowels. Even when tightened down, the dowels still seem a little bit loose like they might be willing to move over time with enough engine vibration.

I noticed there is something called retaining compound specifically for press-fit assemblies. But I also read that the same basic chemistry is used for threadlocker compounds. The retaining compound sounds like it might be tough to break loose if I ever wanted to change out the dowels (e.g., I upgraded from my McLeod bell to a Quicktime).

I was thinking about trying blue threadlocker instead, hoping it is weak enough to break if I ever really need it to but strong enough to help keep the dowels from rotating unintentionally. What say y'all?

[GTOLiam]

How about Permatex 51813 Anaerobic Gasket Maker?

[Bill Eveland]

Loctite 638 is a retaining compound, there used to be others that were referred to a bearing/surface mount. This is a green Loctite and requires higher heat or force to release it. I use it at work for the Mustang rear ends, they use it to help shear strength where the ring gear attatches to the carrier.

[geeteeohguy]

What Bill said. Have used the loktite green sleeve retaining compound on dowl pins in the rear end of my Model T and in it's transmission assembly....10 years ago. Still going strong. It's good stuff.

[mgarblik]

As said, the green bearing and sleeve retaining compound is the correct material to use. The primary difference between it and the thread lockers you mentioned is the green material is very low viscosity and will wick around the pin in a zero to light press application. It is available in a very small tube at most parts stores since it's not used every day.

[i82much]

Thanks guys, I appreciate all of the input.

Is the green stuff removable without heat?

[mgarblik]

My experience is a small amount of heat will make the part much easier to remove. Micro-torch maybe 200 degrees or so. Not as hard to remove as red locktite.

[i82much]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

My experience is a small amount of heat will make the part much easier to remove. Micro-torch maybe 200 degrees or so. Not as hard to remove as red locktite.

Cool, thanks!

[HWYSTR455]

Once you crank the bolts down for the bell housing, it won't move. You can scribe a line on the bell housing to reference the position of the dowel, and you can repeat/determine the position if it moves.

But, if the dowel is loose enough, it could fall out.

.

[i82much]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Once you crank the bolts down for the bell housing, it won't move. You can scribe a line on the bell housing to reference the position of the dowel, and you can repeat/determine the position if it moves.

But, if the dowel is loose enough, it could fall out.

.

It's not really "loose" but even after I tighten the allen head I can still turn it with a 9/16 wrench with some effort.

At this point, I am going full anal retentive on the bellhousing since I have spent countless hours trying to get it shimmed for parallel alignment, deciding it wasn't good enough and having the bellhousing blanchard ground, now again going through countless hours to find the right shims since it changed after having the bellhousing ground, etc. I am pretty close on parallel now, once I get concentric straight and confirm it doesn't hurt the parallel I AM NEVER CHANGING ANYTHING AGAIN AS LONG AS I LIVE.

If that tells you anything about how I feel about indexing bellhousings ...

[TSMartin]

I've used Loctite 680 for years and have ... to date ... never had a failure. Even on assemblies where no kind of mechanical ... set screws ... brazing ... welding ... etc .. methods of joining was allowed. PIA to disassemble if you make a mistake.