[HaloMedic]

1966 GTO 3:23 10 bolt posi 4 speed

problem is im tearing the outer shaft bearing up
new shaft but keep trashing that bearing

the outer race is fine no marring no damage

any help

[tempest1964]

Possible bent/alignment issue with housing? A good rear end shop can check straightness of housing.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Been running a little slow this morning.
Exactly which bearing and shaft are you talking about.
My first thought was tail shaft bushing till you said inner race was fine.
So..IDK what bearing you're talking about.
If it's front pinion bearing, I'ld say rearend housing needs a good washing out before you put a new bearing in.

[HaloMedic]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

Been running a little slow this morning.
Exactly which bearing and shaft are you talking about.
My first thought was tail shaft bushing till you said inner race was fine.
So..IDK what bearing you're talking about.
If it's front pinion bearing, I'ld say rearend housing needs a good washing out before you put a new bearing in.

sorry I did not include that info rear wheel bearing

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Does that car have a sealed pressed on ball bearing?
Curious because you said the outer race was good. Or was you talking about the axle tube was good?

When they tear up exactly what's happening to them?

If it's a noise you hear when turning, it might be something like a brake backing plate bent.

If pressure gets applied to the outer race when the bearing gets pressed on...it can damage the seals and let the grease leak out causing premature failure.

[HaloMedic]

Thanks for the help Have sealed bearings
axle tube undamaged [inner race]

the bearings that I've replaced have just self destructed the inner part of the bearing is undamaged the outer part broken

so far ive been lucky I dont see damage to the axle or axle tube inner race
been getting replacements at car quest [cheap china crap]

ordered Timken bearing to go on this time

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Need to look close at how the bearing fits in the axle housing (what I call the tube). Outside race of the bearing should be a light press fit in the housing.
If the housing is worn out of round, the bearing outer race wont support the load by itself.

Check that fit before you have the bearing pressed on the axle.

If a bearing outer race broke or spun in the housing/tube......just need to check close for sloppy fit or out of round.
Don't know of any easy fix for a damaged housing/tube.

FWIW If a bearing fits right in the housing/tube, it usually takes somekind of puller to get the axle out.

[HWYSTR455]

Yeah, that's where I was going to go too, the tube/seat area. Or the housing is bent.

Preload could be an issue too, could have slop back & forth, which could hammer the race/outer shell.

Carrier bearings too, if they are sloppy, the axle can move around, and stress the other end, at the wheel side. Make sure the diff fluid is high enough, check for bluing on the bearing, see if it's running dry.

Do you hammer the car? Is it only the passenger side that you have to keep replacing? Could just be nature of the beast, along with crappy bearings.

Side loads, if you carve a lot of canyons, side loads can eat them up, and why the design changed in later years to the conical.

.

[HaloMedic]

I do have a very small divot in the bearing race is this enough to cause bearing failure can it be ground down ever so slightly to smooth it out divot is at about 9 oclock

[Firebob]

What kind of wheels/back spacing are you running? I used to have a set of reversed Cragars that would eat a bearing once in a while. Too much load on the outside of the bearing. Usually would spin on the axle shaft when it went.

[tempest1964]

If that divot is the only bad area, it looks like you should have at least 90% of good bearing seat surface. With that in mind, as long as you have a press fit and removed any raised areas from the divot, I would think you'd be okay

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

Need to look close at how the bearing fits in the axle housing (what I call the tube). Outside race of the bearing should be a light press fit in the housing.
If the housing is worn out of round, the bearing outer race wont support the load by itself.

Check that fit before you have the bearing pressed on the axle.

If a bearing outer race broke or spun in the housing/tube......just need to check close for sloppy fit or out of round.
Don't know of any easy fix for a damaged housing/tube.

FWIW If a bearing fits right in the housing/tube, it usually takes somekind of puller to get the axle out.

This again...especially after seeing that picture.

[HaloMedic]

Thanks for all the input Guys

now where to buy Good bearing

and another pressing question

is there a difference in wheel bearing for 8,2 bop non clip axle

the 66 GTO had both a early model no clip axle and the clip for late 66 with the clip

no clip on mine

[HWYSTR455]

Can you post a pic of the ate up bearing?

That seal looks kind of beat up too, but suspect you will be replacing that. If you beat on it too hard installing it, it can leave some clearance and the bearing can rock a little.

It's ok to run a light bead of RTV on the edge of the bearing, not for sealing, because the seal does that, but for taking up some slack so the race doesn't spin.

Not sure, but the only replacement bearing aside from the Centric one might be NOS OE. You might get lucky if you watch eBay. But you shouldn't have too much of a problem with them. They should last at least 20k miles IMO.

,

[HaloMedic]

no question to basic here

but I feel so dumb asking, Never worked on a rear end before

my Question is where do I fill the differential

1966 gto 3:23 posi 8.2, 10 Bolt ive looked for hole for drain I thought was the bottom bolt of the carrier and I thought the bolt hole where the limited slip tag was the fill hole that's

[johnta1]

Usually on front side of rear end. About level with the pinion yoke.
Usually a pipe plug.

[HaloMedic]

Finally found the problem. the bearing was not flush with the axle leaving about 1/4 in outside the pocket

axle was to long grind it down will fix it

NOPE neck is too short by a full inch. So now I get to buy a new shaft
measured the old axle the neck is 2 1/4 in from the back of the wheel hub
The new Axle is only 1 14 in. I thought all was good installing it I wasn't pulling all the brake parts to see if it was flush

[JLMounce]

It's normal for the bearing to sit outside of the race slightly. The brake mounting plate will be slotted for this. It looks like you found that out the hard way.

It's okay to have things beyond your knowledge level. What I would do, is get a bearing back in it on your new axle, and take the thing to a drivetrain specialist and let them know what's happening.

If you're not carving a lot of corners with relatively sticky tires, you shouldn't be burning through bearings quickly unless you've got a problem at the housing end.

One other thing to look at here is that you're getting a decent bit gear lube past the axle seal. The type of bearings you're using here are sealed and should remain dry. The axle lube eats at the seal, you lose the bearing grease and with the axle seal in place, you starve the bearing of lubricant and it burns up.

Don't just put a new bearing in there. Remove the current seals, clean up the race, install new seals and bearings.

[HWYSTR455]

Dutchman makes forged replacement axles with the correct stand off and dimensions, just found this out recently:

http://www.dutchmanaxles.com/bop-sto...ob-single.html

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