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#21
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I, (and you) would do well to copy(get a copy) of Mahoney's Ported iron Intake !! My 4234 iron awaits the recipe!
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12.24/111.6MPH/1.76 60'/28"/3.54:1/SP-TH400/469 R96A/236-244-112LC/1050&TorkerI//3850Lbs//15MPG/89oct Sold 2003: 12.00/112MPH/1.61 60'/26"x3.31:1/10"/469 #48/245-255-110LSA/Q-Jet-Torker/3650Lbs//18MPG 94oct Sold 1994: 11.00/123MPH/1.50 60'/29.5"x4.10:1/10"/469 #48/245-255-110LSA/Dual600s-Wenzler/3250Lbs//94oct |
#22
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That sounds like a cool motor. I would go with a slightly bigger cam.
I waited almost a year trying to get Crower SS enduro rockers but had to give up and went with Comp Cams Aluminum.
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70 TA, 467 cid IAII, Edelbrock D-port heads, 9.94:1, Butler HR 236/242 @ .050, 520/540 lift, 112 LSA, Q-jet, TKX (2.87 1st/.81 OD), 3.31 rear https://youtube.com/shorts/gG15nb4FWeo?feature=share |
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#23
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This really does sound like a cool motor project looking forward to the results! Nice flowing heads don't need a bigger cam. JMO...... run what ya brung!
Jim
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Jim Moshier 1971 Grand Prix 462ci SD Performance 6x heads 1962 Catalina 389 1968 Firebird 400-455 I haven't decided "If we ever forget that we're one nation under GOD, then we will be a nation gone under." - Ronald Reagan |
#24
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HYWSTR455 this was like 5 years back and they where likely sitting around waiting for the heads to show up for 6 months to close to a year.
So the question then becomes, how does that one tell a improved set from the older ones?
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I do stuff for reasons. |
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#25
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Quote:
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#26
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Crower SS are the best I have found bar none. HS are OK I have both on motors. And some Norris SS-not sure if they are still around.
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Skip Fix 1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever! 1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand 1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project 2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4 1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project 1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs |
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#27
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He ran the 69 setup up until he decided to install a Glasstek replica hood. No more flappers in the scoops. So I cut the scoops open, molded in an air box and use an L88 base, so it basically functions like the 68 version, and works excellent on his car. |
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#28
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I still vote for a bigger cam. The RAII motors were designed to work with a 041 cam and a 400 cid, no? So if you have ported heads and 64 more cid I'd think it would be begging for a bigger cam.
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70 TA, 467 cid IAII, Edelbrock D-port heads, 9.94:1, Butler HR 236/242 @ .050, 520/540 lift, 112 LSA, Q-jet, TKX (2.87 1st/.81 OD), 3.31 rear https://youtube.com/shorts/gG15nb4FWeo?feature=share |
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#29
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The heads aren’t ported, just gasket matched.
This cam is probably a little on the conservative side, but seemed like a good match to the rest of the combo. I’m probably not going to change it, but curious what you’d run.
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Ken '68 GTO - 464 - Ram Air II heads - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - Moser 3.55 Truetrac (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) Last edited by Verdoro 68; 09-02-2022 at 02:29 PM. |
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#30
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The 68 Ram air system did not yet have the provision to open and close the hood scoope’s as in the 69 and 70 system.
Without those flaps and the bar they mount to acting like a throttle blade and cutting down on flow there’s no doubt that the 68 system passed more air. The statement of 400 cfm worth is pushing it judging by the amount of square inches of opening my eye see’s on my 70s hood!
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I do stuff for reasons. |
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#31
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Well, your combo seems very similar to mine. Similar cid. You have unported RAII heads and I have unported Edelbrock D-port heads. You're 9.5 CR and I'm 10. Both 1.5 rockers. So I'd pick the cam I have which is the Comp Cams/Butler custom grind 236/242 520/540 on 112 lsa.
And since I'm not an expert at all, I based that on what people here have posted, and Butler's advice, and of course my engine builder. But, it still depends on what you want. Like when I was putting together my combo, lots of people suggested 1.65 rockers. That would definitely get me more power but by my estimation, I'm already going to have a little more than I really need for my purpose. Anything more would be total overkill. It still may be overkill. But I decided that I'd rather have a little more than I need than a little less. The Dyno will tell the tale very soon.
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70 TA, 467 cid IAII, Edelbrock D-port heads, 9.94:1, Butler HR 236/242 @ .050, 520/540 lift, 112 LSA, Q-jet, TKX (2.87 1st/.81 OD), 3.31 rear https://youtube.com/shorts/gG15nb4FWeo?feature=share |
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#32
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Quote:
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#33
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#34
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The extra clearance King main bearings (MB5511XPSTDX) got here today, and I had the day off, so I spent the afternoon in the garage prepping the block and fiddling with the crank clearance.
The first thing I did was carefully clearance the block for the stroker crank counterweight. Tin Indian says they go for about .080, so that's what I did. After that, I cleaned the block and went back to fitting the crank. The King bearings loosened things up exactly as advertised. I'm now on the tight side of the spec Butler provided for bearings 1-4, but the rear main cap seems to have much more clearance at .0034. I'm using ARP's torque recommendation for the studs w/ ultra torque lube - 110 ft/lbs on 1-4 and 140 ft/lbs on #5. 1: .0025 2: .0025 3: .0024 4: .0024 5: .0034 I double checked all the mains with plastigage, and they came out to within the ballpark I measured. The rear main looked a closer to .030 with the plastigage, but I trust my mic and the dial bore over it. I put the Clevite back in and measured at .0015 - as it did the first time. I swapped shells back and forth and remeasured several times and got the same results. As a last resort, I measured the thickness of the shells and the King is .001 thinner than the Clevite (.0974 vs. .0984), that's probably where the .002 difference came from. So I guess the question is, do I get a standard King set to see if I can get the #5 journal in line with the rest or roll with a looser journal? With the mains all torqued down, the crank spins easily when you grab it by the snout. It's not a "two finger" spin like Cliff mentioned in an old post, but it takes very little effort. I couldn't even get the in-lbs it took to spin it to register on my digital torque wrench. No indication of tight spots from a few spins around. Quote:
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Ken '68 GTO - 464 - Ram Air II heads - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - Moser 3.55 Truetrac (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) Last edited by Verdoro 68; 09-02-2022 at 08:25 PM. |
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#35
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Vey cool, good luck getting her buttoned up!
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#36
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I closed up shop for the day, but the #5 bearing situation was bugging me. Then, I came up with an idea test my hypothesis. I set up #5 with 1/2 a King and 1/2 a Clevite. Sure enough the clearance was at .0025 on the nose. Guess I better order a set of standard King bearings...just for #5.
I'm thinking about ordering a set of King rod bearings to keep things consistent, but the Clevites Butler sent are right on the nose for clearance, so maybe I'll let sleeping dogs lie. I do like the coating on the Kings though, it's more resilient than the Clevite coating.
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Ken '68 GTO - 464 - Ram Air II heads - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - Moser 3.55 Truetrac (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) |
#37
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Cool build.
Those rockers are known for putting metal filings in your oil. I would not risk it with a Eagle cast crank. Go Scat 4340 , worth every penny. |
#38
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It looks to me like you on your way towards final assembly?
Do you have intentions of zero decking block (I hope!!!) I will never build another engine without getting the quench, spot on, it can make a huge difference in octane sensitivity. Iron heads need this more than alum heads. I agree with other, a forged crank would be my only choice. The next step up in cam selection, seemingly, has been used by man without affecting drive-abilityat all. I'm on board withCrower or Harland Sharp rockers, both can be bought direct from their factories.
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1977 Black Trans Am 180 HP Auto, essentially base model T/A. I'm the original owner, purchased May 7, 1977. Shut it off Shut it off Buddy, I just shut your Prius down... |
#39
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Quote:
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
#40
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If you just switched over to main studs without at least getting the main bore checked with a precision ground round checking rod or if not Aline honed then that’s why number 5 could be doing what your seeing.
Main studs pull on the blocks main Webb in a different way then do bolts! Before you order up different bearings and if you still have the old rear main bolts, then I would install them and torque them up and see what might change with your bearing clearance.
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I do stuff for reasons. Last edited by 25stevem; 09-03-2022 at 07:41 AM. |
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