[JLMounce]

There's no reason to spend any more money than you have to. What FiTech system do you have? If it's the Go EFI 4, the GPA4 pump has more capacity than the injectors. Spending more to go with the GPA6 will not increase your ceiling beyond what the injectors can handle.

If you're close enough to 600hp that you're starting to worry, you should be in a Go EFI 8 with much more head room. If that's the case, the GPA6 is the better pump choice.

[Nicks67GTO]

Originally Posted by FrankieT/A

I use the GPA 6 and the floatless sender.

BUY THE FLOATLESS SENDER....YES IM YELLING AT ANYONE EVEN THINKING ABOUT SKIMPING AND BUYING THAT POS FLOAT STYLE UNIT.

Seriously. My float style one sucks. Ill be buying the floatless and installing this winter.

[salesguy01]

My float that came with the tanks Inc package works just fine... even reads correctly! I mean it does fluctuate with low fuel and s hard acell

[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by Nicks67GTO

BUY THE FLOATLESS SENDER....YES IM YELLING AT ANYONE EVEN THINKING ABOUT SKIMPING AND BUYING THAT POS FLOAT STYLE UNIT.

Seriously. My float style one sucks. Ill be buying the floatless and installing this winter.

Mine just flat doesn't work. It could be a wiring issue, but it worked for about 2 weeks or so. So agreed, get the floatless sender.

I'm in no hurry to drop the tank again, so I just watch my mileage and fill up at regular intervals.

[HJones1313]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

There's no reason to spend any more money than you have to. What FiTech system do you have? If it's the Go EFI 4, the GPA4 pump has more capacity than the injectors. Spending more to go with the GPA6 will not increase your ceiling beyond what the injectors can handle.

If you're close enough to 600hp that you're starting to worry, you should be in a Go EFI 8 with much more head room. If that's the case, the GPA6 is the better pump choice.

It's a cast-rod motor so I'm not even going to try to squeeze much more out of it than I've got already, which is maybe 450 - 470hp. Even if I put on a pair of E-heads, or Kauffman heads, it still won't be that close to 600hp.

[JLMounce]

Yeah no reason to spend the extra on the GPA6 pump. You've got plenty of headroom with the 600hp FiTech unit and a Walbro 255lph pump.

FWIW I'm running the Go EFI 4 with GPA4 pump on my as cast kauffman headed 455. It has no trouble with this setup. Haven't had it on a dyno, but Jeff Kauffman claimed around 500/580 would be an around there type of number.

[salesguy01]

Originally Posted by angelo

According to FiTech the Rev limit cuts off both the fuel injectors and the spark mapping. Ref: http://fitechefi.com/faq/rev-limit-decel-cut/ Not sure what that sounds like though, quick search on YouTube may reveal that.

I am about to remove my MSD box and wire the FiTech to manage the timing directly. The FiTech will plug right into the purple/green harness coming from the MSD distributor. The remainder of the swap includes wiring the ignition to the positive end of the coil and the black wire from the FiTech to the negative end of the coil. I am still waiting from a response from the FiTech team about my factory tack but I am 99% confident I can simply wire the tach to the negative post of the coil as well.

Re FiTech timing control, one thing that is confusing is the "Base timing" setting. As I understand it, you want this to be as advanced as you can get it, but perhaps a couple degrees lower than what you think your idle timing should be at. This way if you decide to retard your idle timing, you can go as far back as the base timing setting. Until I got my head around that, I was confused between the difference of the base timing and idle timing.

I am configuring my FiTech idle, 1,100, 3,000, and 6,000 rpm timing initially to 20 degrees, with the base timing set to 16 that way I can set the timing easily with the timing light on the last marking on the timing cover. Once I have the timing set, I plan on setting my 3,000/6,000 at 34 degrees and 1,100 somewhere in-between 20 and 34. I will then make adjustments from there.

There are 2 more options for timing at 1,100, 3,000 and 6,000 when at wide open throttle and also under boost. The fun part is figuring out these settings while at a track.

So what did you settle on for settings? I'm trying for 36 total with 12 initial, I'm confused with the part throttle timing.

[HJones1313]

Originally Posted by salesguy01

So what did you settle on for settings? I'm trying for 36 total with 12 initial, I'm confused with the part throttle timing.

That's exactly the same settings I plugged in, and I'm curious about the part throttle timing as well.

[FrankieT/A]

Originally Posted by HJones1313

That's exactly the same settings I plugged in, and I'm curious about the part throttle timing as well.

Your base timing number should as high as the car will allow. When I make adjustments to part throttle timing, it doesn't seem to make a difference while I'm crusing. The WOT throttle adjustment does seem to make a difference though a part throttle.

[salesguy01]

How about your Idle timing Advance? Tune that for highest vacuum reading?
set at 19 right now. since my base is 12 thats only 7 advanced. maybe there should be a thread seperate with just timing with fitech as it seems to open a whole new can of worms!

Right now mine is popping on decel and when I stab the throttle, think I need to phase it again.

[FrankieT/A]

I have my distributor set at 12 with the timing light. Going to the controller;

Distrib Base deg is at 12.8
Idle advance is 9.0

And you are correct...Timing is another can of worms...

It took me a lot of trial and error to get it to run this good. It runs real good but is not perfect yet. A work in progress. My next phase will be tuning with a lap top.

[1980 TA]

Getting ready to take the FI Tech plunge.

I've read every thread on them that I can and seem sold on it for my needs and wants.

I was going to use the RobbMc powersuge but I really like the idea of the FCC and the fewer hoses to run. It does seem like FItech has addressed the overheating with PWM control on the unit.

The system is going on a 1980 trans am with a 455. I have a factory style fuel pump with a return line at the pump and the vent line open where it should connect to the charcoal canister. I have all new lines and tank or I would consider going with an efi tank.

If I hook the FCC to the vent line, won't I be effectively closing off the vent line to the atmosphere sealing the tank? I would assume that changing to a vented gas cap should allow the tank to breath? Do they make a vented gas cap to fit a 1980 tank?

Is there a one way valve, similar to a plumbing pro vent, that could be placed in between the FCC and the vent line? This would let air in but no fumes out.

[Grabberblu]

Part of the failure of the CC is using a vent that has a restriction. This is common on guys with GM's, the vent they have has a slight restriction and will lock up the CC.

Some GM's have more than one vent line, if you can blow through with you mouth and it's free your good to go

I've been using the CC for almost a year and no problems. My reason was the same as you I had a new SS tank

Larry

BTW vented cap's let air in but not out

[1980 TA]

I appreciate the feedback. Good to hear the CC has worked well for you.

Sounds like the vented cap will be what I need to source.

I'll check my vent line tomorrow. I would assume its working somewhat as I have a non vented gas cap and I would assume its letting air in.

[angelo]

I got a Tanks Inc external vent valve from Summit and mounted it as high as I could mount on the core support charcoal canister side. I used a "T" to connect the vapor line from the gas tank, Tanks Inc. vent valve, and the vapor line from the FiTech Command Control.

[Squidward]

Originally Posted by angelo

I got a Tanks Inc external vent valve from Summit and mounted it as high as I could mount on the core support charcoal canister side. I used a "T" to connect the vapor line from the gas tank, Tanks Inc. vent valve, and the vapor line from the FiTech Command Control.

I will be using my canister vent line as the FCC vent. I blew through it to verify no obstructions. The liquid line from the Liquid Vapor Separator goes to the tank, and I tee'd one of the corner tank vents to a line with a spare fuel filter up high above the rear axle. I might replace the fuel filter with the vent valve like yours if I have any trouble with fumes.

FCC isn't installed yet, so no real world results yet, just theory. FiTech support said that the charcoal vent return line should be adequate for the FCC vent, and the charcoal can location is a good place to put the FCC. I already ran some hard fuel line from the mech fuel pump, under the balancer, and up around the front passenger side of the engine in anticipation of my plumbing needs.

[HJones1313]

Just talking out loud here, the Achilles heel of the system seems to be centered on the fuel system. I'm on my third frame-mount pump (the first died with no pressure, 2nd did the same and left me stranded), and don't want the FCC under the hood. I've replaced the tank, modded the pickup, and if this one fails I'm going to a Tanks Inc tank and in-tank pump per the recommendations of knowledgeable guys on this thread. The car runs great, but I just can't trust it (the fuel supply) any further than I can throw it.

[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by HJones1313

Just talking out loud here, the Achilles heel of the system seems to be centered on the fuel system. I'm on my third frame-mount pump (the first died with no pressure, 2nd did the same and left me stranded), and don't want the FCC under the hood. I've replaced the tank, modded the pickup, and if this one fails I'm going to a Tanks Inc tank and in-tank pump per the recommendations of knowledgeable guys on this thread. The car runs great, but I just can't trust it (the fuel supply) any further than I can throw it.

It's the achilles hill of all TBI based systems. frame mount pumps fail frequently and that command center still requires a vent line that most people try to use the factory vent with and it does not work.

It's a bit more money, but the ultimate setup is a new EFI ready tank with an in-tank pump. It's easier to install, quieter and will be more reliable.

The command center is something like $395 and is a pain to install and you still need to run a vent back to the tank as the factory line (if your car is equipped) can not handle the volume. I got my entire setup including the tank, walbro 255 lph pump, sending unit, straps, rollover vent for right at $500.00 shipped.

I tried going the cheaper method first and because the factory return line on the tank could not flow enough return fluid I go pressure creep and the car would flood and stall. Once I bit the bullet and purchased the tanks in system with their pump, the car has been stone cold reliable.

I think this is like the 5th post I've made in this entire thread basically saying the same thing, so I guess I should yell.

DON'T USE THE FRAME MOUNT OF COMMAND CENTER FUEL SYSTEM! THEY ARE **** AND DO NOT WORK! BUY A DEDICATED EFI FUEL TANK AND IN-TANK PUMP!

[Squidward]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

It's the achilles hill of all TBI based systems. frame mount pumps fail frequently and that command center still requires a vent line that most people try to use the factory vent with and it does not work.

It's a bit more money, but the ultimate setup is a new EFI ready tank with an in-tank pump. It's easier to install, quieter and will be more reliable.

The command center is something like $395 and is a pain to install and you still need to run a vent back to the tank as the factory line (if your car is equipped) can not handle the volume. I got my entire setup including the tank, walbro 255 lph pump, sending unit, straps, rollover vent for right at $500.00 shipped.

I tried going the cheaper method first and because the factory return line on the tank could not flow enough return fluid I go pressure creep and the car would flood and stall. Once I bit the bullet and purchased the tanks in system with their pump, the car has been stone cold reliable.

I think this is like the 5th post I've made in this entire thread basically saying the same thing, so I guess I should yell.

DON'T USE THE FRAME MOUNT OF COMMAND CENTER FUEL SYSTEM! THEY ARE **** AND DO NOT WORK! BUY A DEDICATED EFI FUEL TANK AND IN-TANK PUMP!

I am going to make the FCC my b!t@#, even if i have to make it wear lipstick, high heels, and call me "Dozer". If I have to run a big a$$ vent line, then no problem. It seems most of the race guys are running 1/2 vent lines back to the tank, so why should I be any different? I have the standard mech fuel pump return line, and the FCC will vent via the separate evap line. We'll see. I don't have a problem running some extra hose to the back.

If my fuel pump goes bad, guess who WON'T be dropping their tank to change it? Yeah, THIS guy.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Squidward

If my fuel pump goes bad, guess who WON'T be dropping their tank to change it? Yeah, THIS guy.

No, but you will be changing it frequently. And it could leave you stranded more than once. My suggestion would be to carry a spare.

Ask guys who have done Power Tours, see what they think. Not to mention the noise.

.