[R 70 Judge]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Many times, just like a carb, you need to crack the throttle plates some. You want the IAC to work at below @10%, adjusting the plates will get you there.


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This is the method I used but the remote IAC set up has been a bit finicky. I’m also running a large cam (272-283 .726” int .696” ex on a 109) so I’m interested to see the settings on a similar build

[HWYSTR455]

Which remote IAC are you using?

And you did a TPS Autoset after?

How much timing at idle and vacuum do you have?

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[HWYSTR455]

Which remote IAC are you using?

And you did a TPS Autoset after?

How much timing at idle and vacuum do you have?

Do you have timing control?

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[R 70 Judge]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Which remote IAC are you using?

And you did a TPS Autoset after?

How much timing at idle and vacuum do you have?

Do you have timing control?

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Kinsler EFI remote kit. I have it installed into the back of the Steve Morris billet elbow.

https://kinsler.com/Shop/product/rem...-flow-housing/

Yes I did tps autoset

I don’t remember the vacuum at idle but it’s not a lot. I’m on vacation right now so I don’t have my laptop handy to check a log

Timing is locked at 25* for now but I have “idle spark” enabled which gives it an 8* swing either way if needed.

I don’t want to muck up his thread with my stuff so I’ll post this in my thread as well so the discussion is over there

[HWYSTR455]

Cool, replied to other thread, and sure, will take a look, PM me to start a new PM-chain and will give you my email.


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[mysticmissle]

We are at 30 almost like it was locked before
It ran well at that range we have done tps reset each time
I'll
Try and get some shots of how we are set up when we have the screen up next time

[mysticmissle]

I am currently
Using a BOP intake and there is no port for a vac line
Does anyone know if this port next to the tpms is a vac port? It had a very small Allen plug in it it looks like it is machined inline with a galley in the throttle body
I can't find any info
Currently we are using the fuel side of the nitrous plate
And are thinking it may not be sufficient for a vacuum source

[HWYSTR455]

Not sure if that's a vacuum port or not, but you could pull the body and blast a little air in it, see where it comes out (or not).

I would think you would want something larger than a fuel line port on the plate, not sure what size that would be, guessing AN -4/ or .25"? Might depend on the plate?

You can pretty much drill a hole in anywhere in the plenum, tap it, and screw a fitting in for a vacuum port. Depending on what you plumb to it basically dictates the size.

A MAP sensor port I'm pretty sure is 4mm, and you want to use some type of ridged line. Emissions hose works really well, can form it with a heat gun, and there's an assortment of ends for them.

I don't think that clear hose is acceptable, but not sure, especially if there's not a lot of vacuum.

Basics suggest that depending on the source, the larger the line, the slower the response, and visa-versa, so would think you want to stay roughly in the range of the MAP sensor port size. But the size you currently have seems sufficient. Personally, I would prob cap off the one port, using only one, but that may not make a diff.

And apologize if i mix answers from other posts, I did get a little confused on who posted what.


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[HWYSTR455]

Ok, went back and re-read, you're running the MSD dual sync.

It is extremely important to make sure you have the inductive delay set properly. As RPMs rise, like over 3000-4000 RPM, the timing can swing a lot. Like 25-30 degrees.

Since you're not running sequential, really, you don't need a dual sync. But if that's what you have now, I guess use it. But you will notice some creep/scatter/jumping of the timing. Crank trigger is the best, those are rock steady. And the suggested 100ms is usually not even close.

Definitely don't go over say 3000 RPM or so, it won't have the timing you think it does. Always trust the timing light and use a basic tried & true type timing light.

I had this saved from a post on the Holley EFI forums about sync-ing the timing:

" Synchronizing the EFI timing (laptop) with the engine timing (timing light):
NOTE: Temporarily disable the "Idle Spark" control (in Idle Settings).
1) Turn the distributor or adjust the crank trigger to synchronize the initial (idle) timing, then lock it down.
Next, ensure timing is synchronized at higher RPM using the EFI software.
NOTE: Now use the EFI software "Enable Static Timing Set". I use a Static Timing value of 25° or 30°.
2) Momentarily rev the engine, and watch the timing advance with your timing light. It shouldn't move.
If timing advances or retards, adjust the "Inductive Delay" until the timing maintains itself.
If the ignition timing retards, increase this value. If the timing advances, decrease this value.

SUMMARY: The initial (idle) timing is synchronized by turning the distributor or adjusting the crank trigger and locking it down. The timing at higher RPM is synchronized by adjusting the Inductive Delay in the EFI software. The first synchronization is physical, and the second synchronization is electronic (Inductive Delay). Believe the timing light above all else, it's always the real timing (if there's a discrepancy). When finished, the timing as viewed on the laptop, should match what you see with the timing light, at all RPM.
Once the ignition timing is fully synchronized, the Timing Table can be tuned for each application."



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[mysticmissle]

Thank you for the input
I believe we have the timing synched as we followed the procedure and the timing seems rock steady w the light

I spoke w the Holley dealer that I got the system
From
And he said that port not my nos plumbing is adequate in his opinion
So we put a 1/16" pipe thread in it
Just talked to my bud Wednesday we are going to flush out the details
And I'll
Get you guys some
Pics of where we end up on the charts

[HWYSTR455]

You mentioned E85, so this may be of some interest to you:

"The stoichiometric air fuel ratio of gasoline ranges from approximately 14.5 to 15.0 but is generally considered to be 14.7. Accordingly, the stoichiometric air fuel ratio of a mix of 85% ethanol and 15% gasoline is 9.972:1, while the ratio for a mix of 51% ethanol, 49% gasoline is 12.15:1."

Some of the Holley EFI training suggests running AFRs around 14.7, but on bigger displacement and larger cams, I strongly suggest going fatter. Some I've seen run like 13.4-13.8 at idle, and that's for gas.

So 9.972 is 67.83% of 14.7, can round to 67.5%. So you can offset the base fuel map by plus 32.5% .

You can highlight the whole table, right-click, select 'Offset Selected', and enter %32.5 in the box and hit 'OK'.

That AFR table from that example config file I posted above has some 'safe' AFR numbers in there for gas and posted the example table. You can pick a section that has all the same values, determine what 67.5% is of that value, and offset those cells by the calculated value.

Those are just suggestions, I'm not that familiar with E85, but it sounds right math for a 'safe' AFR table and base fuel map.

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[HWYSTR455]

Looking at the 'Meth Twin Turbo' global file example under 'Custom Cals' > 'Racing', the approach above sounds about right:

This is the AFR table for that global file.

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