[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

A luxo-barge could still have been abused by a number of overheating cycles, and towing. Or sitting in a field in hot summers/cold winters.

I dunno, I used to feel OE cranks were fine to use, OE rods too. Now since the stuff is readily available and affordable, I just eliminate as many possible risks in any build.

I would even go a cast cranks before using an OE.

A machine shop could easily miss signs when checking the OE parts too. I just don't trust anything anymore.

If, just if, there is that chance of failure, and it does fail, I would beat myself up over not replacing an OE prepped part. And not spending that nominal extra money.

Reminder. The cost could be not just the amount you spent the 1st time, but the cost of doing it all over again combined.

Just how I feel, and personal opinion.

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Most of the Chinese cast cranks are JUNK. This isn’t an opinion; it is FACT. I’ve seen too many NEW off shore cranks that had so much taper and O/R that we were grinding them .030 under just to get them in spec Want to talk about the ones that were .040 out of stroke? The BRAND NEW we had to scrap because of this? Even using a .005 above stroke/.005 below stroke criteria we couldn’t correct this much out of stroke AND use .030 under bearings. My old friend and mentor had an expression he used a lot: “New doesn’t mean good”. Just because a part is “new” doesn’t mean it isn’t junk. OE Pontiac cranks should be subjected to NDT ( Non Destructive Testing) before reusing them. As Mike has said many times they were producing nearly 1,000hp in Grocery Getter with an OE Pontiac crank. A properly prepared and machined Pontiac engine OE crank is capable of handling 600hp on the street. If you are concerned about longevity, cryo treat then nitride the crank after re-grinding and equalizing the strokes along with regrinding the radii on all journals.