[Formula8]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

I'm still lost, trying to understand here. I think the issue with your setup was the fact that the pressure plate was .250 shorter, which required a longer throw out. Think about it, the rear of the block and the bell housing, are both fixed distants, and turning a flywheel .002 or .003 isn't going to to change that distance enough to impact the pivot ball.

Where did you find the stock spec for the pivot ball, and what is it?

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Here is a write up that may assist the OP: http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/clutches_etc.htm

My instructions from centerforce gave me the spec. I'll see if I can find it but as I remember, I set it the same as this guy in his video @ 4.750:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=22TwNOpXcPA

[JSPONT]

For a few more $$ check out centerforce kit. I never had any problem with them. Ran them in many of my cars. Keep us posted!

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Formula8

Here is a write up that may assist the OP: http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/clutches_etc.htm

My instructions from centerforce gave me the spec. I'll see if I can find it but as I remember, I set it the same as this guy in his video @ 4.750:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=22TwNOpXcPA

I was looking at that write up, and found a number of errors, then basically gave up. I realize that in a 'conversion' situation, some areas need to be verified, but terminology is still terminology, and how some of the 'checks' were done were off base. For one, you don't measure air gap with a ruler between the pressure plate fingers and the bearing. It's done with a feeler gauge with the pedal depressed. Also, there are different bearings for pressure plates that have straight fingers, the edges of the bearing are rolled.

Unfortunately, at work, YouTube is blocked, but will check that vid when I get home.

The only time I can think of that an adjustable pivot ball would help is in an instance where you use one of those flat finger pressure plates, because the amount of throw/travel is critical. The range of motion is very short with those type, so any slop, or incorrect geometry, can/will impact operation. In almost all other situations, you can compensate with throw out bearings and adjustment.

If yours is working fine, then obviously, there's no issue, I'm just pointing out that it most likely was corrected with the throw out bearing, the pivot ball could have remained, and there's a bunch of ways to cook that chicken.

Clutch air gap is critical for proper disengagement, clutch free play is critical due to engine to body movement, so both need to be correctly adjusted. Back in the day, when folks would push a 4 speed car hard(or 3 for that matter), it was possible to have the clutch or shifter hang during hard acceleration. Diaphragm pressure plates were notorious for not engaging at high RPM, and wouldn't engage until you let off the gas. That's why Borg & Beck pressure plates came about. CenterForce deals with the problem by adding weights to the fingers on a diaphragm pressure plate, but, those weights can get hung between fingers, at high RPM they can still hang, and the weights can fall off. I know lots of folks have good results with them, but IMO, they're just a typical diaphragm with a band aid.

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