[HWYSTR455]

You had it together and you didn't take the air gap measurement? And you took it back apart why? Because it didn't feel right? You're trying it without the trans installed? What would that prove?

Where's the pic of the z bar and linkage?

It doesn't matter where all the stuff came from, that info really isn't going to tell you jack. If it works, it could have come from an Edsel and it wouldn't matter, because it works.

Again, here you are not following advice, and not approaching this methodically. Sorry for all your problems with this, but I'm done.

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[F ROCK]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

You had it together and you didn't take the air gap measurement? And you took it back apart why? Because it didn't feel right? You're trying it without the trans installed? What would that prove?

Where's the pic of the z bar and linkage?

It doesn't matter where all the stuff came from, that info really isn't going to tell you jack. If it works, it could have come from an Edsel and it wouldn't matter, because it works.

Again, here you are not following advice, and not approaching this methodically. Sorry for all your problems with this, but I'm done.

.

umm, I haven't had it ALL back together yet. didn't read or look at the pics again huh?
so there you go again shooting off AGAIN without really knowing.
I have some advise for you too. pay attention if youre gonna shoot your mouth off, know what you're shooting off about. thanks.

[F ROCK]

I've installed the trans again. this time i removed the rubber fork boot, and found that
the fork bottoms out against the back of the fork opening before the clutch disengages.
so I guess I will have to "cook that chicken" with a bigger bearing after all; but again I wonder what is different that the stock bearing is too small?

[Held for Ransom]

Originally Posted by F ROCK

I've installed the trans again. this time i removed the rubber fork boot, and found that
the fork bottoms out against the back of the fork opening before the clutch disengages.
so I guess I will have to "cook that chicken" with a bigger bearing after all; but again I wonder what is different that the stock bearing is too small?

My take is the positioning of the fingers (or tines) on the pressure plate when bolted to the flywheel is different on each application and needs a different offset (if you will) throwout bearing to take up the slack. So, if your original package had the fingers 1.5" from the flywheel and you milled .2" off the flywheel and the new package is 1.25", I would look for a throwout bearing that was .45" longer. That's how I would look at it, but I'm not sure if it's right.

[HWYSTR455]

Look at post #12 and #14.

EDIT: Sorry, I was showing frustrations again, my bad.

.

[F ROCK]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Look at post #12 and #14.

EDIT: Sorry, I was showing frustrations again, my bad.

.

it's all good, I was showing mine too.
i'm glad you've responded to help me.

thanks again everyone.

[1967Tempest]

The bearing is a timkin part #1377C

[JSPONT]

Originally Posted by F ROCK

I've installed the trans again. this time i removed the rubber fork boot, and found that
the fork bottoms out against the back of the fork opening before the clutch disengages.
so I guess I will have to "cook that chicken" with a bigger bearing after all; but again I wonder what is different that the stock bearing is too small?

The longer ball could be enough, but the middle throw out bearing look like the one I use, told you you narrowed it down!!!You will be rowing gears in no time now.

[GOAT WHORE]

This tilton hydraulic throughout bearing eliminates all your issues. Call Modern drive line for a kit next time.

[JSPONT]

Originally Posted by GOAT WHORE

This tilton hydraulic throughout bearing eliminates all your issues. Call Modern drive line for a kit next time.

It's not just a bearing, you need to modify your clutch pedal, add a resivoir... the kit will cost you an arm and a leg. You can adapt some junk yard parts out of a newer car, but still is not simple and cheap.