[1967Tempest]

I fought this for months! My wife's left leg was definitely getting a work out!

I fought the entire system and ended up getting the adjustable ball stud and a new TO bearing!!! Using the TO bearing that you have with a non adjustable ball studd the clutch would never disengage...

Here is a picture of the stuff you have with the rod adjusted all of the way out..



Differences in ball height..



TO bearing heights..



Highest ball height installed..

[HWYSTR455]

That throw out bearing in the middle of that pic is one of the type that is used with flat tine/finger pressure plates. The one to the left is generally used for borg & beck style.

When a ball stud is too long, you can 'over-throw' a clutch, and go past center, which can make it hang.

.

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

That throw out bearing in the middle of that pic is one of the type that is used with flat tine/finger pressure plates. The one to the left is generally used for borg & beck style.

When a ball stud is too long, you can 'over-throw' a clutch, and go past center, which can make it hang.

.

Very true as it happened when I had the ball stud maxxed out. I settled on a nice mid point on the ball stud and the center TO bearing.

This what I used when I put the Saginaw 4 speed in the car. Which worked perfectly when I replaced it with a TKO500.

Consequently, I used the exact same set-up when I swapped the 67 Tempest Wagon over to a 4 speed. I used the same parts etc.. and it worked on the first try. My wife was relieved as she only pushed the pedal like 5 times and it was set.

[Rugratman]

Somewhere in the archives here are my struggles with this as well.

Toss is an aftermarket part, and the geometry went wacky.
I used these for the push rods...they worked wonders.
http://www.speeddirect.com/index.php...ucts/rod-links