[grivera]

I have an 8.5 10 bolt on order to replace my 8.2 and I'll be doing the swap at home in my garage. I've searched for tips on doing this but haven't found any. I do have a pretty good idea, but I want to make sure I don't miss anything. I will be getting my leaf springs re-arched in the process, so are there any special considerations on how I jack up the car. I figured the body and the rear need to be supported independent of one another. Is it safe to use the jack stands on the rocker panel (with 2x4's as a buffer)? Any other pointers?

[cnc]

I think u should be good to support the body under the car near the frt spring perch area without problem at least that is where I was lookin at when I pull my rear end out....
As for pullin the rear pull the axles out and remove the backing plates as an assembly leave the shoes, park brake cables and hydraulics all together and pull/push them out of the way...Unbolt the diff and springs as an assembly ( if it will come as one piece not 100% on that) or seperate the diff first then the springs HTH....Chris

[HWYSTR455]

Yup, toss the jack stands under the area where the front spring perches are, on an area of the frame. Make it as high as possible. Then jack the rear up from the center and remove the wheels and shocks. Lower the rear some to take the tension off of it, pretty much where it's just resting on the jack in the center. Next remove the brake line, driveshaft, u-bolts and T-bolts (the lower plates will come off at that point), then remove the rear leaf shackles, lower the rear from the jack in the center, pull the jack out, and slide the rear out the back and to the side.


.

[grivera]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Yup, toss the jack stands under the area where the front spring perches are, on an area of the frame. Make it as high as possible. Then jack the rear up from the center and remove the wheels and shocks. Lower the rear some to take the tension off of it, pretty much where it's just resting on the jack in the center. Next remove the brake line, driveshaft, u-bolts and T-bolts (the lower plates will come off at that point), then remove the rear leaf shackles, lower the rear from the jack in the center, pull the jack out, and slide the rear out the back and to the side.


.

Thanks. Will I still be able to remove the leafs at this point for the re-arching?

Also, I had the springs installed about 5+ years ago (500 miles tops), should I replace the pads and bushings?

What are T-bolts?

[OINK 1]

The Prior postings are good!
Here's detailed steps for you.
The rearends share brake assembilies !
1- Jack up the car, place stands on the frame, just infront of the rear springs.
2- BLOCK the front tires.
3- Jack up rearend enough to remove lower shock , let it hang.
4- Unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the axles in ( T-bolts )
5- Remove axles
6- Unbend the clips that hold the brake lines to the rearend, unhook rubber brake line, put on vacuum
cap, so it won't drip.
7- Coat hanger wire each entire brake assembly to frame, up some ,out of the way.
8- Pull the rear, stick in the new one

The 8.5 rear will have C-clip axles, I assume you know how to do that part.

Pontiac Gregg

[grivera]

So the rear can't be removed as one assembly, including axles? (The one I bought is backing plate to backing plate).

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by grivera

Thanks. Will I still be able to remove the leafs at this point for the re-arching?

Also, I had the springs installed about 5+ years ago (500 miles tops), should I replace the pads and bushings?

What are T-bolts?

Yes, once the rear is out, you can drop the front spring mounts, no problem.

Spring pads, well, see how they look. If they look ok, leave 'em.

T-bolts. There are U-bolts on the one side of the lower spring mount, where the shocks mount to, and the other side is a T-bolt. They look just as it sounds, like a 'T'. Once you get under there it will be obvious.

One thing I did forget to mention and that's the parking brake cables. Those you have to take the drum off and remove from the e-brake arm. You also have to bend the little 'umbrella' thing-ee (technical term) to remove the cable from the backing plate. That too you will see is obvious once you get it apart.

And yes, you can remove the whole assembly with the axles as one piece.

.

[grivera]

Thanks. I'll be swapping the brake assembly from the 8.2 to the 8.5...

[grivera]

Originally Posted by OINK 1

6- Unbend the clips that hold the brake lines to the rearend, unhook rubber brake line, put on vacuum
cap, so it won't drip.
Pontiac Gregg

What is a vacuum cap?

[Tim john]

Just a rubber cap to place over the dripping brake line. Same caps used on carburetors to cap off vacuum line ports. Nothing special, just rubber caps.

Tim john---

[chupiw1]

Liquid wrench can be your best friend. If that rear hasn't been out before, you might want to spray some liquid wrench on all of the mounting bolts a day or two in advance. Some of those nuts may be rusted on pretty good.

[grivera]

Originally Posted by chupiw1

Liquid wrench can be your best friend. If that rear hasn't been out before, you might want to spray some liquid wrench on all of the mounting bolts a day or two in advance. Some of those nuts may be rusted on pretty good.

I plan on doing so, although the leaf springs were replaced about 5 years ago...

[blue goats]

Yokes are different on a 8.2 to a 8.5 or maybe its just the straps. I don't remember for sure.
George

[quicksilver97ta]

If you are going to use the brakes off the 8.2 then you should unbolt the backing plates before you remove the rear. I think that's why it been suggested here. Anyway if you do it this way you will not need to open the hydraulic system and thus not lose any fluid or need to bleed the brakes. Note that there is a hole in the axle flange for easy access to the backing plate bolts.
Also note that the 8.5 is slightly larger and you may need to shorten your driveshaft. You may also need a conversion u-joint.
Overall it's well worth it as parts are plentifully and from 2.73 and numerically higher all use the same carrier unlike the 8.2 which is very limited on which gears can be used on which carriers.

[1967Tempest]

I'll be doing this soon too. Why do I need to remove the axles. 8.2 to 8.2 just gear in rear is lower.

[b-man]

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

I'll be doing this soon too. Why do I need to remove the axles. 8.2 to 8.2 just gear in rear is lower.

The only reason to remove the axles would be so you can get the brake backing plates off (along with the complete brake assemblies) so you can put the old brakes onto the new rear end. You can't get the backing plates off with the rear axle flanges in the way.

If you're swapping in a new rear end that is already complete with brakes then there's no reason at all to remove the axles or brakes from the old rear end.

[i82much]

I always threw a couple of old tires/rims under the car next to the jack stands ... just in case. That's probably just dumb redneck advice but it might be good dumb redneck advice.

[b-man]

Using a stack of wheels with tires under the chassis as an added safety precaution is always wise.

If the car were to shift off the jackstands that good 'redneck advice' could save your life. Way too many guys have lost their lives working underneath their cars.

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by b-man

Using a stack of wheels with tires under the chassis as an added safety precaution is always wise.

If the car were to shift off the jackstands that good 'redneck advice' could save your life. Way too many guys have lost their lives working underneath their cars.

X2!!!!!!!

[grivera]

How difficult is it to remove the axles on both rears to allow removal of backing plates?
Considering the draining of gear oil on the 8.2, wouldn't brake hardware r/r be about the same amount of work?