[engineer9]

Finished TH350 trans swap for “Slim Jim” in my 62 Cat. Bendtsen adapter did not come with installation instructions and did not fit up as advertised…had to machine additional slots to clear rear of block around main bearing area; the starter mounting flange was too close by a few thousandths causing the pinion to stay engaged in Hayes flexplate. Bob Bendtsen was extremely arrogant and not at all helpful when I asked for his help in coming up with a way to fit the adapter up. In the end he ran off a string of insults and hung up on me…see the Pontiac Business Entities Exchange forum for details. Because of his particularly “bad attitude” toward his customers, I wouldn’t recommend using any of his products.

The crankshaft pilot hole was enlarged (about 3/16” on ID and 3/8” on depth) to accommodate the torque converter nose. This was done by hand using a rotary silicon carbide grinding bit in a pneumatic grinder…took about 6 hours of work.

The tranny tunnel had to be pounded out a little bit to accommodate the TH350 just above the rear mount; I think this is because I have a bench seat and the floor pan configuration does not provide as much space as a bucket seat arrangement with console shift.

The rear mount crossmember was reversed and moved forward and the center 12” cut out and lowered about 4” to fit up to the rear trans mount. The dual exhaust just clears below the cross member on each side by about ¼”. Need to get a right angle speedometer cable adapter to clear around the relocated crossmember.

Trans had 6” tail section requiring a rework of the driveshaft. Took a Chevy driveshaft, cut off the rear yoke and welded in the front yoke from the Pontiac. Shortened by about 4”. New U-joints both ends. Balanced out smooth all the way to 8000 rpm.

Used a Lokar ACA-1800 column shift linkage; had to bend to Z-shape to span the 7” distance from the steering column to TH350 shift arm. Used Lokar TD-3350400FM flexible dipstick (firewall mount) in the trans and a Lokar KD-2350HT kickdown cable…had to fab a suitable bracket to anchor it to the intake manifold at the carb end.

Installed Classic Exhaust System 304SS dual exhaust…right side fit OK; left side didn’t fit at all from muffler forward. With second section of pipe installed properly (to clear driveshaft), the exhaust pipe off manifold interfered with steering Pitman preventing making a left turn. When the pipe off the manifold was installed properly (to clear Pitman), the second pipe interfered with the driveshaft. Had to take the pipes to a shop and get them re-bent to fit. So far, Classic Exhaust has not responded to my request for the $$ back that I spent correcting the problem. Used heavy-duty Nelson pipe hangers; added Pilot PM555 304SS exhaust tips.

Did a complete engine overhaul (except rings and valve job). Found about 3” of some mysterious material that had settled out and solidified in the lower part of the block on both sides and from front to rear. Had to scrape and chip it out through the freeze plug openings. It was rather hard, grey-black in color with a coarse texture and came out in particle sizes ranging from dust to ½”. Got about 2 quarts of the stuff out. It is NOT foundry sand…any one have any ideas on what this stuff is?

Painted exhaust manifolds with POR-15 grey iron exhaust manifold paint. Prepped with phosphoric acid bath and hot water rinse. Brush coated and baked in my grill at 375 degrees F for 2 hours followed by a second coat / second bake after cooling down. Paint is holding up very well after 100 miles…no discoloration or peeling.

Stripped engine to bare metal, primed and painted 1966 light metallic blue. All brackets, generator, power steering pump, radiator, etc. stripped to bare metal, primed and painted semi-gloss black. Degreased and sanded engine compartment and compartment area frame, primed and painted semi-gloss black.

Have numerous pix of this project…if you would like to see a pix of any particular aspect, PM me and I’ll e-mail.

[Engine-Ear]

Thanks for the post, engineer9!

re: the buildup in the crank case, I found a gray-black slimy buildup in a low-mile '64 Buick 225 v6 I was working on ... a more experienced wrench than me said that it was a combination of leaded gas precipitate in car that saw mostly short trips.

I like the idea of using the grill to bake paint onto parts!!

[Bill Hanlon]

Originally Posted by engineer9

Found about 3” of some mysterious material that had settled out and solidified in the lower part of the block on both sides and from front to rear. Had to scrape and chip it out through the freeze plug openings. It was rather hard, grey-black in color with a coarse texture and came out in particle sizes ranging from dust to ½”. Got about 2 quarts of the stuff out. It is NOT foundry sand…any one have any ideas on what this stuff is?

Some people "fill" the lower part of the block with some kind of epoxy-type material in an attempt to strengthen the block. Could this be what you found?

[Engine-Ear]

whoops, looks like I was referring to the OTHER side of the block wall!

....sorry, t'was the rum!

[donpontiac]

fwiw, i used a 9" tail th350 and didn't have near as much trouple with rear mount and was able to use the original driveshaft by just changing the front yoke.

[engineer9]

DonPontiac....

I don't understand the rear mount arrangement you are describing...isn't it part of the main transmission case, not the tailshaft? So wouldn't your crossmember have to be moved forward and lowered to pickup the mount point on the main TH350 transmission case? Pls post or send pix of the arrangement. Thanks!

[donpontiac]

i used a tailhousing from a chevy truck (maybe a van) that had another boss for the mount cast in. i still had to move my crossmembr forward and yes, i lowered the trans a bit for floorpan clearance. i did that by making a simple triangular shaped piece of flatsteel and drilled three holes in it, then used spacer shims (washers) to get the desired clearance between the top tailhousing bolts and pan. with the cooperation of my friendly parts store, i seasrched his shelf and found a rear rubber mount that was slightly shorter and had a single stud facing down. i hope this helps someone. i'll try to get some pix posted soon. i'm still tweeking the kickdown cable at the manifold. how's your tranny feel driving? it's like a new car isn't it! mine is the first slim jim car i ever swaped to th350. should have done it decades ago. it's a lot of work but it's well well worth it. don't you think? more later, don

[Keith Seymore]

Thanks for posting. I recently completed a similar swap of a THM400 into my '63 Grand Prix.

I also used the Bendsten's adapter plate and found the same interference you did. I cleared it away and it has been working well all this year.

I also had a "close call" with Mr Bendsten on the phone; I was sincerely not understanding one aspect of the installation (because of a wrong photo of his product) and he thought I was questioning his "experience". That certainly got a rise out of him. Fortunately, I figured out why I wasn't understanding (they showed the wrong starter in the pic) and I was able to calm him back down.

I have a thread somewhere of my installation if you are interested (I thought my shift linkage was kinda' cool ). If I can find it quickly I'll post it.

K

[donpontiac]

here's a couple pix of my setup. i must of had one of those senior moments. the mount boss IS on the main case. i had to move the x-member foward about 8 1/2". as you know, this dramaticaly reduces the clearance between the x-member and floor pan. i carved a couple notches in it to allow the 2 1/2" exhaust pipes (my car rides low) to go over top.

[1967Tempest]

The short tail TH350 will not work? I ask because if I have to do this I have a really nice short tail from the 67 Tempest.

Any work on the adapter situation? Better, worse? is Mr. Bendsten the only game in town??

Thanks
Dave

[Stuart]

Wilcap also sells an adapter plate: http://www.wilcap.com/webdoc8.html

[engineer9]

The "Short Tail" T350 worked OK; however, I had to reverse and cut / lower the center section of the rear tranny support to pick up the rear mount. As previously mentioned, I will not do any more business with Bendtsen's...his adapter did not fit the '62 389 engine without modification and he was zero help (besides being totally obnoxious!) in solving the fitup.

[1967Tempest]

I see. Sorry to hear that you had a bad experience. I can't stand crappy customer service. Well then, my mind is made up that I will not use B's adapter.

Thanks in advance.... Haven't even driven the car yet. Just making sure that I got on some good threads in case I need them,

Thanks!!!!

[1967Tempest]

Yeah, I am pulling the trigger on mine and swapping to the TH350. Gotta find a newer motor first.

Dave

[1967Tempest]

Well after reading the above post, I decided to search for a 65 and up Poncho motor to make the swap easier. Got a line a newer motor. Gonna remove the parts that I need from current combo.
Valve covers etc.. then pull the motor and trans.

Bolt up the TH350 short tail to the new 67 motor and drop it in in one push.
Engineer9: did you have to hammer the floor because the trans was further back because of the adapter plate?? If I do not have this, I will have around an inch more play. Does this sound right??

Dave

[1967Tempest]

Got the 62 engine and tranny out of the wagon. I have a 72 350 and TH350 going in.

I want to put the trans and engine in together. Should 5 hammer the floor before I put this in?

The crossmember trans perch is higher on top. Can't I just flip it around ad redrill the holes to accept a TH350 mount? Or does it need to go lower than the "low" setting on the crossmember.

Anny help will be AWESOME!!!

[engineer9]

I dropped the engine in first with the adapter plate, then raised and bolted up the TH350...unless you have the radiator and cross-support member out, the engine/TH350 tranny assembly may be too long to drop in. In any case, I would hammer the tunnel first...I had to remove the tranny twice to get the tunnel hammered for the right clearance so that the carburetor was relatively level and the float would function properly. The tunnel enlargement was required due to the "taller" TH350 vs the Slim Jim. I also cut the small lifting lug off the top of the TH350 for additional clearance.

The OEM tranny rear support cross member was reversed and moved forward; however, it was still several inches too high to pick up the TH350 tail mount while maintaining the carburator level. Thus I had to cut out the center of it and lower it about 4" with adapter plates...see pix.

[1967Tempest]

Well it cant be any longer than this!!!!


I wonder if I could use a A-Body crossmember as it is lower... Hmm.. I know that I would have to lengthen the ends, but might be worth it.


Also , you are hammering the floor near the end of the transmission, right? How much hammering? Is it a few good whacks or should I pack a lunch.?
Dave

[Engine-Ear]

I have a lotta thoughts on this, but I am tired as hell and need rest...one thought though: A '65-'70 big car cross member may give you what you need.

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by Engine-Ear

I have a lotta thoughts on this, but I am tired as hell and need rest...one thought though: A '65-'70 big car cross member may give you what you need.

Sleep...... There is time... Sleep.......


65-70 Big car. Hmmmmm......
I will search