[Keith Seymore]

One thing I can perhaps offer, although I am embarrassed to admit, is that at least on my '63 you can put the crossember under the frame rail rather than in the U section.

It does make the crossmember more visible in the side view, and it does mess with your u joint angles unfavorably - but it also allows the installation (TH400, in my case) with out a lot of savage brutality to the floor pan.

K

You can see it towards the forward edge of the door; I've been meaning to go back and redo this but have not done it yet -

[1967Tempest]

I would have not noticed unless you pointed it out!!

How much further down did this allow the rear of the trans?

SWEET RIDE!!!!

Dave

[engineer9]

Well, the area I hammered was about 10" wide (on the curve) x 12" long starting about 6" to 8" back from the face of the firewall. The larger the area you hammer, the less noticable the "bump" will be in the carpet inside the car....can't even see it on mine. I used a small sledge hammer with a big head to avoid getting alot of small dimples in the metal. The maximum increase in the tunnel height that I hammered in was about 3/4" at the center, which produced about 1/4" clearance when everything was bolted up.

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by engineer9

Used a Lokar ACA-1800 column shift linkage; had to bend to Z-shape to span the 7” distance from the steering column to TH350 shift arm.

Can you post a picture of this? I was looking again just a minute ago and it will need WAYY too much time to fab up the stock linkage. This seemed easier.

Thanks!!
Dave

[engineer9]

Dave...

Here is the best pix I have of the Lokar trans link (trans removed from car). What is not apparent is that it is also bent slightly in the other direction (out from the pix) in order to connect it to the shift toggle bracket /arm extending from the trans case. It took a few trials to get the right shape in this bar, but it was generally easy to install and it works great.

Before ordering it, I spent some time on the phone with a Lokar rep discussing the pros & cons of this versus a cable shift.

[1967Tempest]

Oh. I see that original bracket still attached to the frame and the TH350. I was going to just attach the rod from the linkage on the column to the TH350. Would that work?

[stevep]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

One thing I can perhaps offer, although I am embarrassed to admit, is that at least on my '63 you can put the crossember under the frame rail rather than in the U section.

It does make the crossmember more visible in the side view, and it does mess with your u joint angles unfavorably - but it also allows the installation (TH400, in my case) with out a lot of savage brutality to the floor pan.

K

You can see it towards the forward edge of the door; I've been meaning to go back and redo this but have not done it yet -

Keith,

I've seen that more than a few times. Whatever works is good with me!!

[engineer9]

Whoops...wrong pix posted! This is NOT the Lokar linkage. The posted pix is when I was trying to make my own linkage and adapt it to the stock setup. It didn't work out because of the extreme offset.

My car is currently in winter storage; I'll try to get a pix of the Lokar setup later this week and post it this weekend or sooner.

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by engineer9

Whoops...wrong pix posted! This is NOT the Lokar linkage. The posted pix is when I was trying to make my own linkage and adapt it to the stock setup. It didn't work out because of the extreme offset.

My car is currently in winter storage; I'll try to get a pix of the Lokar setup later this week and post it this weekend or sooner.

Sweet!! Thanks again!!

Dave

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by Engine-Ear

A '65-'70 big car cross member may give you what you need.

I found one in my area. Hoping to pick it up today or tomorrow. It needs some cleaning, but is intact. I will post some pictures when I get it.

I have a lot of work, but should be installing the engine soon.

1. Remove single master cylinder and install dual MC.
2. Bleed brakes. Easy when engine is out and hood off!!
3. Paint under hood.
4. BFH the tunnel for tranny.
5. Install engine/tranny.
6. check for correct geometry and install.
7. DRIVESHAFT!! I might have a line on a longer one from another Poncho.

More to come. I might just buy 5/16 female rod ends and a threaded 5/16 rod and make my own shifter assembly. We shall see.

Thanks for the help!!!

[engineer9]

OK, Dave...I visited my '62 Cat in storage this AM and took these pix of the Lokar shift link from steering column to trans. As you can see, it is a pretty simple installation and the Lokar parts fit perfectly on both ends.

I'll be interested in what you come up with for your trans rear support using Enginer-Ear's recommendation as I am not real happy with my reverse / cut / lower installation using the OEM '62 cross member...clearances are too tight!

[1967Tempest]

Thank you for the pictures. I was going to make a home made rod uing threaded rod and rod ends, but it looks like this is a cleaner install. I can't thank you enough for the pictures!!!

I picked up the B-Body crossmember. It is a little butchered. The ends were cut off and this was installed into another car. But I am going to weld 3/16 plate on the ends and it should be fine. I will take pictures. The only thing that is worrying me now is the geometry. But I am thinking that it will not be a real issue as you have the adapter plate and mine is straight bolted. I will have to BFH the tunnel a little and then hopefully this crossmember make the engine sit nicely.

I was not even thinking about the carb float until you mentioned it. That would be learned the hard way..

More to come thanks, again for the pictures!!!

Dave

[1967Tempest]

OK, Well a member of our club had an old B body crossmember that someone had cut to exactly 48 inches. I welded up to extensions with 3/16 plate steel and drilled a hole in the middle and bolted it to the frame. I am still working out the bugs.

Carb was dumping gas cause I had the float level WAY TOO high. I forgot to adjust it after I rebuilt the carb.

Timing is still being messed with. But is OK for now. I am going to add some more initial.

The 350 had a 1.25 rad hose and the rad has a 1.5. I ordered a swivel 1.5 which is o its way. I have the 1.25 hose jammed on to the rad. I rubbed the PS belt on the lower side of the upper rad hose. I think that this happened when the crossmember was not bolted in ad I turned the car around to get it in the garage.. Because the engine does ot move when throttled. I added some green electrical tape as a tattletale to see if I have to come up with a fix.

I had an exhaust leak on the driverside cause it was that ring style gasket. I literally just removed it to add a mess load of RTV. If it solves the issue, great. Cause it is annoying. I put 20$ of gas in it and the needle moved slightly over the 1/4 tank mark...


Thanks for all of the help!!! The shifter works like the factory installed it!!!!