Pontiac - Race The next Level

          
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  #21  
Old 01-18-2012, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 60man View Post
Let me know what you come up with Brad. I MAY go to a 16v alternator later ??? Seems like most guys with 16v don't bother with one. I have 3 passes and didn't charge 16v battery so far.....and ran coolling system in staging lanes just to test it out....
I always click my motor off at the finish line and restart on the return road. Hot lapping at the end of the year(and letting it run too long in the staging lanes), I wasn't able to get it started on the return road once. I've got a small Denso 50 amp alternator sitting on the shelf and thought I might try putting it on for next season. It only weighs 6 lbs and with the 4.5 stroke motor I'm building, I don't intend to spin it a lot of rpm's. If I don't like it, can always take back off.

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  #22  
Old 01-18-2012, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Vaught View Post
The Butler Performance Alternator Relocation kit parts are a lot better design.

See Article with photo of parts.

http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...e/viewall.html

Driver's side kit would be PN TRP-ALT1 and costs $85.00

I know the Pontiac guy who makes the Kits for Butler and it is a well designed/ quality part.

Tom Vaught
What I'm using and I had no issues with it mounted on either side of the block. This kit mounts the alternator rock solid.

Alan

  #23  
Old 01-18-2012, 09:06 PM
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Now a days with all the electronics in a race care it's important to have a well charged battery 12 or 16 volts. I would never race without an alternator. I always have 13.5 volts or better going down the track.


GTO George

  #24  
Old 01-18-2012, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by GTOGEORGE View Post
Now a days with all the electronics in a race care it's important to have a well charged battery 12 or 16 volts. I would never race without an alternator. I always have 13.5 volts or better going down the track.

GTO George
X100

Very, very important today with all of the electronics and massive fuel pumps some run.

Tom Vaught

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  #25  
Old 01-18-2012, 09:35 PM
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Default shogun mini

I've been running a shogun Mini for years. works great on maintaining battery charge. But Dont have alot of electronic load. Like alot of the new cars today.

  #26  
Old 01-18-2012, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by lugnutt View Post
Has anyone had experience using this mounting bracket. I have it installed and it seems like it is pretty flimsy. I don't have alot of confidence in it. It looks nice, it just looks like it needs another bracket to support the back of it.
I've tried to call Tin Indian to see if they left something out. Tried a few times, left message and no return call.
Try mounting your alternator this way with the Tin Indian Performance Alternator Relocate bracket.....


Oh, and the one from Butler, it's "Just ok". I run it on my car - It has limited adjustment. The access to adjust isn't as good as Tin Indian Performance Alternator Relocate bracket.

I have 4 of the TIP on my cars and have no problems. I have 1 Butler type and it works too. I don't see how my Butler type is any more ridged ??
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  #27  
Old 01-18-2012, 10:59 PM
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Looks like you fixed a few of the things and made it a lot more rigid along the way. Looks like you found the right lower hole in the head to support that area and then modded the top to get a upper head hole to line up.

Tom Vaught

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  #28  
Old 01-19-2012, 12:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTOGEORGE View Post
Now a days with all the electronics in a race care it's important to have a well charged battery 12 or 16 volts. I would never race without an alternator. I always have 13.5 volts or better going down the track.


GTO George
Just curious....do you run a 16v system George?
So far I have not saw my voltage gauge below 14V after 2/3 runs...14 volts and I charge it..I do start with a fully charged battery on first pass.
Eventurally I will get a 16v alternator...I have a "heavy" 16v battery but I also have a lot of reserve amps..

Question for Mr. Vaught...with AC 220 is much more efficent than 110 and requires less amps to do the same work......is this not true for 16v over 12v syatems..

triathlonx13:...that bracket looks thicker than my old Tin Indian....did Kevin beef them up..?

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  #29  
Old 01-19-2012, 02:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Vaught View Post
Looks like you fixed a few of the things and made it a lot more rigid along the way. Looks like you found the right lower hole in the head to support that area and then modded the top to get a upper head hole to line up.

Tom Vaught
No mods... you can see it's on a mid performance motor. Stock from TIP. Stock factory heads.

  #30  
Old 01-19-2012, 02:22 AM
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Simple bolt on...

  #31  
Old 01-19-2012, 10:05 AM
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Simple bolt on...
triathlonx13:...that bracket looks thicker than my old Tin Indian....did Kevin beef them up..?

Agreed..it's a bolt on..

You going to make Norwalk.?

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MANDRA
Do it now fool! Life is short.

69 Grand Prix/3163lbs / IAII 535 w/ Tiger heads by Gaydosh....9.35@ 144 so far.. through mufflers. 1.26 60'.
Going back to track with pump gas engine....
My 60 Ventura retired to street/strip duty..
  #32  
Old 01-19-2012, 10:23 AM
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Hey Troy - Yes we will be at Norwalk - Looking forward it already.

We've been distributing the TIP alt. relocate bracket for 4 years - nothing has changed during that time with my shipments. Not sure before that.

FYI - Just noticed your stats... 10.05 @ 135.40!!!! <--- That's hau'n !!!

  #33  
Old 01-19-2012, 04:55 PM
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60man,
No I do not have a 16 volt system. I look at consistency.................................electr onics (fuel pumps, water pumps, fans, trans brakes, delay boxes, etc.) act differently with more or less voltage, I have basically the same voltage on every pass (13.5) .............consistency.


George

  #34  
Old 01-19-2012, 07:16 PM
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Any of you guys try having a "field" switch inside the car. Not a bad way to go.
You have the switch on all the time except for your actual run. I turn mine off just before I stage after the burnout and turn it back on after I cross the line.
That way their is no "pull" on the engine during the run.
Its just the actual weight of the armature being spun by the engine at that point.

The battery is kept fully charged by driving in the pits, the burnout and driving back on the return road.
I just run a small 36 amp alternator. But you can run a 100 amp this way and it all works out the same.

  #35  
Old 01-19-2012, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triathlonx13 View Post
Hey Troy - Yes we will be at Norwalk - Looking forward it already.

We've been distributing the TIP alt. relocate bracket for 4 years - nothing has changed during that time with my shipments. Not sure before that.

FYI - Just noticed your stats... 10.05 @ 135.40!!!! <--- That's hau'n !!!
Yeah..I got slow the speed down a little....don't want to have get a license just yet..too much $$$$
Thanks for compliment..
Not sure how old my TIP bracket is..just a painted Black bracket..Guess the more RPM's you throw at it...the more load. JMO...

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2008 Outlaw Pontiac Drag Series Champion
MANDRA
Do it now fool! Life is short.

69 Grand Prix/3163lbs / IAII 535 w/ Tiger heads by Gaydosh....9.35@ 144 so far.. through mufflers. 1.26 60'.
Going back to track with pump gas engine....
My 60 Ventura retired to street/strip duty..
  #36  
Old 01-19-2012, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTOGEORGE View Post
60man,
No I do not have a 16 volt system. I look at consistency.................................electr onics (fuel pumps, water pumps, fans, trans brakes, delay boxes, etc.) act differently with more or less voltage, I have basically the same voltage on every pass (13.5) .............consistency.


George
I did run a 100A alternator when I was 12v....
I would not try to run a 12v system without a alternator.....some do..
I agree on maintained minimum voltage...nothing less than 14v for me now..so far...so good....

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ECM member.
2008 Outlaw Pontiac Drag Series Champion
MANDRA
Do it now fool! Life is short.

69 Grand Prix/3163lbs / IAII 535 w/ Tiger heads by Gaydosh....9.35@ 144 so far.. through mufflers. 1.26 60'.
Going back to track with pump gas engine....
My 60 Ventura retired to street/strip duty..
  #37  
Old 01-25-2012, 09:37 AM
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I spoke with Kevin at Tin Indian. He said the bracket needed to be turned around "like a comma". He said it would bring the alternator closer to the crank and shorten the belt making it less likely to come off. It was also mentioned that he installed something on the back of his to help support the alternator. I'm thinking a turnbuckle. I am going to to try that.
Thanks for all the input.

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  #38  
Old 01-27-2012, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Vaught View Post
The Butler Performance Alternator Relocation kit parts are a lot better design.

See Article with photo of parts.

http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...e/viewall.html

Driver's side kit would be PN TRP-ALT1 and costs $85.00

I know the Pontiac guy who makes the Kits for Butler and it is a well designed/ quality part.

Tom Vaught
+1
I had problems with the Tin Indian bracket. Even with a deep groove pulley I still couldn't keep a belt on. We spent some time making sure everything was lined up perfectly and still had trouble. Went to the Butler kit and haven't touched it since. Much stronger deal with 0 flex. You don't have to take my word for it but Tom is an engineer isn't he? LOL

  #39  
Old 01-30-2012, 01:36 PM
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Default Alt mount

For Sale
Tin Indian Alternator mount!

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