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#381
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here are some pics if they help anyone.Tom
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#382
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few more
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#383
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last two
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#384
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tom your car must be loud with those muffers, does your exhaust hit going over the diff below the panhard bar, i got 3 inch on mine and we tried that but it kept hitting mainly when the car was in the air, wheels off the ground, nice pics by the way. Dan
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63 Lemans ride along and drag race. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMJHMPx7KAQ Gear Jamming https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mw7KPRASomg At the track |
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#385
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Gary K the 67 Ram Air A-body exhaust fits like a glove with the V8 x-member no clearance issues with starter, mounts frame or steering. You would think these were made for this car.
I did buy the short turn pipes from Ram Air restoration on recommendation. - Todd |
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#386
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the car is quieter than with 2 chamber flomasters!I LOVE them,had them on the RA V bird also.Can actually listen to the radio now.Nothing hits anywhere on the car.The guy that built the exhaust system did a GREAT job,all stainless from the headers back.Tom
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#387
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Quote:
Gary |
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#388
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I have found the drawing of the spacer/adapter for the rope shaft to post 63 cranks. When you give the drawing to your machinist make sure he marks the pcd of the two bolt circles. The other thing for higgen slake is to check the .190 depth as the flex plate you are using may be thinner than the 336 plate. Another thing is the flex plate may have a dimple on it. I used a drill bit to make a matching recess. The way to proceed is to lay the flex plate on to the adapter plate to make the flex plate holes. I marked one side of the hole only as that will give the centres. On the 2.100" circle use dividers to space the six holes.The flex plate holes are drilled to .500". The drive shaft holes must be drilled to the unf tapping size of 8.5mm or equivalent. bolt the flex plate and adapter onto the crank. Carefuly drill the crank using the 8.5mm holes as a guide. The stock hole depth is 1" I went 1.25" and used 1/2" longer bolts. Remove the adapter plate and drill plate holes out to 3/8" and bolt it back on.You now can use the plate as a tapping guide. Use a taper tap first and then use a bottoming tap to finish. When you finish the tap may be just breaking though to the inside but it dosn't matter. Who ever does this next please post some photos as I didn't take any when I did it. don't forget to balance your flex plate to the late flex plate balance.
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#389
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THanks guys for all the info. I cut my front floors many yrs ago to tie the frames together and never finished em. I almost finished the 4 link then parked the project. Now I started to plan a Satchell link like boodleoof(spl). I felt for cruising that this would offer some advantages over the other link type suspensions-esp handling. I have many 'irons' going would like to finish this car before I retire. Again thanks for the info to get me back to this 63 Lemans. BOb. C5 those look like my 'green' snips laying on the ffront floor! I missplace tools then find them.
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#390
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Quote:
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James 1970 Trans Am Spotts Built 484" IA2, Highports, EFI Northwind, E85 Holley Terminator X sequential EFI fabrication and suspension by https://www.funkhouserracecars.com/ |
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#391
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Well, I haven't had much time recently, but snuck out to the garage for a couple of hours the other night to start cutting the floors (like blueghoast) in anticipation of connecting the frame rails together with some 2x2x.120 tubing.
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#392
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That'll really put some strength and rejidity to your car.
I welded mine continuiosly on both sides of the tubing. GT. |
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#393
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ITS GETTING CLOSER. I HOPE I GET IT HOME BEFORE THE SNOW FLIES SO I CAN FINISH IT UP. JUST A FEW SMALL THINGS HAVE TO BE DONE....JERRY
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#394
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James,
How close is your car to being complete? Calvin Hill Hill Performance 708-250-7420 |
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#395
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Here are a couple pictures of our 1961 Tempest. We've had the car for around 5 to 6 years, picked it up as a driver here in the Chicago area. I remember seeing the car at a service station back in the late 90's. It's all complete and original, it has been repainted, not showing any signs of filler in the body.
The plan was to build this car for heads up drag racing, but the car will sit untouched until I'm able to complete the project in a timely manner, I made a decision to invest in new equipment in my shop versus using the resources on another race car. Calvin Hill Hill Performance 708-250-7420 |
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#396
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Quote:
I still need a converter, driveshaft, in date seat belts, finish the headers, exhaust, and I need to have the 3rd member gone through and possibly add a locker in place of the spool for street driving. Other than that its just a bunch of wiring for gauges and ignition and what not.
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James 1970 Trans Am Spotts Built 484" IA2, Highports, EFI Northwind, E85 Holley Terminator X sequential EFI fabrication and suspension by https://www.funkhouserracecars.com/ |
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#397
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So,,,you will be cruising Van Nyes Blvd by the weekend???
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Keith Collier 61-63 Pontiac Tempest Tech advisor POCI.org |
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#398
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I wish!
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James 1970 Trans Am Spotts Built 484" IA2, Highports, EFI Northwind, E85 Holley Terminator X sequential EFI fabrication and suspension by https://www.funkhouserracecars.com/ |
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#399
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WELL ITS HOME. TO LATE FOR THIS YEAR BUT NEXT YEAR FOR THE 50 YEARS FOR SURE. MY ?IS DOS ANYBODY ON THIS FORUM KNOW IF ANYBODY MAKES THE BLOCK OFF PLATES I NEED FOR THE FIREWALL..JERRY
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#400
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Jerry,we just made mine from a thin shhet of fiberglass and painted black.Dont think any are repoed.For gods sake you have to have a pair of real carbs laying around somewhere!Tom
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