[Old Goat Racer]

Here are some pics of the bar. I also was told it has a pair of moroso rear racing springs. 29.5 x 10.5 tires. Again, this is how I bought the car but with my engine.
Car went straight with the 400 running 11.40's.
Footbraking it seems to leave straight, but the t-brake is a white nuckle ride.
But then it's my 1st t-brake car.

I don't want to get hurt in this monster or hurt anyone else.

[Ron H]

I can't tell in the pics if the lower control arms are boxed or not.

You may want to look at changing out the control arms as the next step.

[Goat-Racer]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

Brian - I can't say enough nice things about your car, too. Very impressive.

Just be careful and don't back out over blueghoast when they call your class to the lanes....

K

Thanks Keith! May bee I need to install a back up alarm on th car. My buddies tell me that GTO stands for "Garbage Truck with Overdrive". The B/U alarm would fit nicely.

[Goat-Racer]

The LCAs are South side machine bars. They are rectangular box tubing, but I wonder about the relocation brackets being equal and square to one another. The relocation is probably a good thing, but everything is suspect at this point.

How old are the tires? The one time that I tried a 28x10.5 slick on my car it was ALL OVER the place. Your rear wheel looks narrow. I think that that was most of my problem. The 10.5 tire with an 8.5 wheel was pretty squirrely for sure. This was a stiff wall tire with tubes and it was still a dangerous mess. The 275/60 DOT radial cured all of that but they still prefer a 10" wheel to get a good footprint.

[Old Goat Racer]

Wheels are 15x10 but the tires & tubes could be 5+ years old.
I installed a set of SSM bars on my 65 years ago to set pinion angle. Ya grind on each bracket till you get the angle you want. Hit & miss at making them equal. I think it was "Screamin Chief" who said they don't work below 11.00??

I'm considering buying the whole kit from HRparts. U&L arms and the bar.

Always dreamed of my 65 pulling the wheels, but changed direction.
Awesome & not light either.

[Rob B]

Looking waaaaay to serious in the photo of the 65! Bet you just lost the round previously by .0005 and was taking a T&T pass to relax.

[Goat-Racer]

The HR stuff is good quality. The urethane still allows some deflection though. Take a look at this http://trzmotorsports.com/wordpress/...sion-1968-1972
These control arms and the bolt on HRParts rear AS bar work well together.

As far as the relocated IC via SSM bars or the Dick Miller no-hop setup that I used to run, what I have found is that somewhere imbewteen stock location and the drastically altered location seems to be the happy place for my car. Only the specific chassis and ride hieight will determine what setup you need. It's a good idea to plot your IC and see just what you have. There is no "magic" IC distance and height to shoot for. Once you are in the ball park and can get the car to seperate, you can tune with shocks to tighten things up/slow things down if needed. I'm around 40" out and 8.5" up right now.
I ended up extending my lower control arm brackets at the rear end so that the control arms didn't point downhill from back to front. The first hole is 1" lower than stock, and the bottom hole is 3/4" below that. I'm in the bottom hole right now and the car finally seperates enough to where I need to start slowing it down with shock extension adjustment. It's all just trial and error.

[blueghoast]

Originally Posted by Goat-Racer

The HR stuff is good quality. The urethane still allows some deflection though. Take a look at this http://trzmotorsports.com/wordpress/...sion-1968-1972
These control arms and the bolt on HRParts rear AS bar work well together.

As far as the relocated IC via SSM bars or the Dick Miller no-hop setup that I used to run, what I have found is that somewhere imbewteen stock location and the drastically altered location seems to be the happy place for my car. Only the specific chassis and ride hieight will determine what setup you need. It's a good idea to plot your IC and see just what you have. There is no "magic" IC distance and height to shoot for. Once you are in the ball park and can get the car to seperate, you can tune with shocks to tighten things up/slow things down if needed. I'm around 40" out and 8.5" up right now.
I ended up extending my lower control arm brackets at the rear end so that the control arms didn't point downhill from back to front. The first hole is 1" lower than stock, and the bottom hole is 3/4" below that. I'm in the bottom hole right now and the car finally seperates enough to where I need to start slowing it down with shock extension adjustment. It's all just trial and error.

Great info. Your car leaves perfect if there is such a thing.
I noticed that your car does every thing right moves forward
while seperarting and transfering, all at the same time.
No wasted movement at all. I didn't know they had housing
bearings like that either. Thanks again good info.

GT.

[Old Goat Racer]

Originally Posted by Rob B

Looking waaaaay to serious in the photo of the 65! Bet you just lost the round previously by .0005 and was taking a T&T pass to relax.

Pretty sure that was when I won Megabucks in '03. Bret Kepner took that pic.

[Old Goat Racer]

I bought the whole kit HR-1909. with Delrin bushings. Set pinion angle at 3 degrees.
Went to the track ready to hang on and Walla, it went straight arrow.
Money well spent.

[Goat-Racer]

Good deal!