[Stuckinda60s]

Originally Posted by 1966geeto

Well the final say from Eastwood is we will sell you another welder at a 20% discount so I figure I'm paying 20% less for another pos I really needed to have use of a welder this past couple of weeks but it will have to wait I will save up for a good one a shame this thing is in new condition all I can do is hope this thread helps some decisions being made.

Have you tried any of the fixes?

[1966geeto]

Originally Posted by Stuckinda60s

Have you tried any of the fixes?

Tried new motor tried cleaning and checking all connections is there something else you know about ?

[Stuckinda60s]

Originally Posted by 1966geeto

Tried new motor tried cleaning and checking all connections is there something else you know about ?

Did you do any continuity checks or switch functions?

[1966geeto]

Originally Posted by Stuckinda60s

Did you do any continuity checks or switch functions?

Yes the problem lies within the 12 volt feed to the motor I can watch my volt meter starts out at 0 if I can get the motor to activate at all usually consists of pulling the trigger many times the voltage will come up to 6-6.5 then quickly drop off to 0 then the motor is dead aslo if I can get it to run at all I can watch the voltage fluxuate a the motor changes speed. Any IDEAS..

[Stuckinda60s]

It sounds like a high resistance path, I'd check the trigger switch and the speed control pot or rheostat. They can often be fixed by spraying them with contact cleaner and cycling them many times. If it uses solid state for speed control, that may be relatively easy to fix or replace, also.

[1966geeto]

Originally Posted by Stuckinda60s

It sounds like a high resistance path, I'd check the trigger switch and the speed control pot or rheostat. They can often be fixed by spraying them with contact cleaner and cycling them many times. If it uses solid state for speed control, that may be relatively easy to fix or replace, also.

Thanks Rich sounds like you have done this before I have squirted contact cleaner in everything I can blown out with keyboard cleaner so as not to contaminate with water same thing what abound a capacitor ?

[Stuckinda60s]

A capacitor can break down at less than it's rated voltage. If it does, you can see symptoms like you are. It will build to certain level and then drop. Your problem still sounds mechanical, though.

A lot of newer VOM's have capacitor checker ranges. You simply disconnect it from the circuit and read it as you would a resistor.

You might want to go on-line and do some research for your make/model, describing your symptoms in the search. You can also research things like speed control problems, etc.

Also check Craig's List, ebay, etc for used ones with problems. You might find one you can swap parts with. I wouldn't give up, yet, by any means.

[1966geeto]

Originally Posted by Stuckinda60s

A capacitor can break down at less than it's rated voltage. If it does, you can see symptoms like you are. It will build to certain level and then drop. Your problem still sounds mechanical, though.

A lot of newer VOM's have capacitor checker ranges. You simply disconnect it from the circuit and read it as you would a resistor.

You might want to go on-line and do some research for your make/model, describing your symptoms in the search. You can also research things like speed control problems, etc.

Also check Craig's List, ebay, etc for used ones with problems. You might find one you can swap parts with. I wouldn't give up, yet, by any means.

One of the issues is I don't have the make and Eastwood will only tell me they have them made but not by who sucks. The first noticeable issue was the motor speed fluxuation then it would not come on at all now it will only come on if it trigger it 10-20 times with the speed and heat switch bottomed out.

[Greg Reid]

You might use the ohm function of your meter on all the questionable connections as well. Resistance should be virtually zero unless you are reading across a component like a rheostat, capacitor etc. Use the ohmmeter to read resistance 'point to point'. Don't forget to do these readings with power 'off'.
Also, look very closely (with a magnifying glass even)...for 'cold' solder joints. These are soldered points that might have a very tiny hairline crack. The ohmmeter can help find these as well. Frequently, flexing component leads or the circuit board itself can cause the readings to fluctuate, just the same way the voltage is doing when you power up.
Sure would be nice if you could come up with a printed schematic for it somewhere that you could post here.

[1967Tempest]

I have had my Eastwood for almost 3 years with light to heavy usage with no issues at all.

I agree that not being able to get parts blows. After doing some searching. And reading a bunch of other forum threads one user thinks that the Lincoln SP135 PLUS is most likely the same welder or pretty damn close. Parts can be found here.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...P135&type=name

Not sure if you are willing to try this route. I have not had an issue, but if I do, I would like an outlet for parts.

Dave

[Stuckinda60s]

A solder joint should look like part of the connection. It shouldn't have a crystalline appearance or look like it's a blob or bubble on the connection. It should look like it's melted and flowed into the joint.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Problems like these are why I'm buying a Hobart MIG. I'll pay a little extra to insure that I can get replacement parts. Same goes for a TIG as well.

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by Stuckinda60s

A solder joint should look like part of the connection. It shouldn't have a crystalline appearance or look like it's a blob or bubble on the connection. It should look like it's melted and flowed into the joint.

Right...should be shiny and smooth...not dull and/or porous and no hairline cracks. Cold colder joints can and do cause many problems in cheaper electronics and can be tough to pinpoint.

[John V.]

I'm no welder or welder tech, but I don't think knowing who manufactured the machine will help you much.

Looks like Eastwood designed their own unique features and the parts for it like the circuit board might be completely unique to them.

That said, it looks like other welders offered under the Real Gear and Northern Tools labels. Its been compared to a similar machine from Century but seems not to be as closely related to it.

But unless the internals are same, which I kinda doubt, even if repair parts are available for these others, might not have the parts to fix yours.

This thread includes some pic of the comparable Real Gear and Century machines along with photos of the internals of the Eastwood 175.

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php...-Welders/page3

Do you have the Eastwood 135 or 175?

This link is to the Northern Tools 135 machine, thought it might help you since it includes a Parts List and schematics.

http://www.northerntool.com/images/d...als/164611.pdf

[giddygoat]

If there is a mechanical relay this could be causing the problem also, relays have specific ratings but they can be subsitued in if the ratings are the same.

[1966geeto]

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

I have had my Eastwood for almost 3 years with light to heavy usage with no issues at all.

I agree that not being able to get parts blows. After doing some searching. And reading a bunch of other forum threads one user thinks that the Lincoln SP135 PLUS is most likely the same welder or pretty damn close. Parts can be found here.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...P135&type=name

Not sure if you are willing to try this route. I have not had an issue, but if I do, I would like an outlet for parts.

Dave

The Lincon does look like the Eastwood when I contacted Eastwood they said their welder is made in China with Eastwood specs I contacted Lincon will see where it takes me..
Thanks

[1966geeto]

Originally Posted by John V.

I'm no welder or welder tech, but I don't think knowing who manufactured the machine will help you much.

Looks like Eastwood designed their own unique features and the parts for it like the circuit board might be completely unique to them.

That said, it looks like other welders offered under the Real Gear and Northern Tools labels. Its been compared to a similar machine from Century but seems not to be as closely related to it.

But unless the internals are same, which I kinda doubt, even if repair parts are available for these others, might not have the parts to fix yours.

This thread includes some pic of the comparable Real Gear and Century machines along with photos of the internals of the Eastwood 175.



http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php...-Welders/page3

Do you have the Eastwood 135 or 175?

This link is to the Northern Tools 135 machine, thought it might help you since it includes a Parts List and schematics.

http://www.northerntool.com/images/d...als/164611.pdf

You are correct after talking with Lincon they said I would be wasting money trying to see if theirs or other welder parts would work the internals are specific to Eastwood design ergo shorting out expensive parts would not be conducive to get back to welding I just hate the fact I spent good money and received no value if I had worked it to death I would not whine about it but I maybe have 10-15 hrs on it if that.
I would be more than happy to ship it back and have it repaired but that is not an option they replace them under warranty or you scrap them after that period.

[barrierblue66]

Originally Posted by 1966geeto

I would be more than happy to ship it back and have it repaired but that is not an option they replace them under warranty or you scrap them after that period.

Sadly, this is part of our overall economic problem today. Build cheap crap in China, when it breaks, not worth repairing, just buy more cheap crap. It's nice to be able to actually fix something that's broken rather than discard/replace.

[Simple Man]

Originally Posted by 1966geeto

The Lincon does look like the Eastwood when I contacted Eastwood they said their welder is made in China with Eastwood specs I contacted Lincon will see where it takes me..
Thanks

I have a Lincoln SP 135. Great all around welder.

[1966geeto]

Originally Posted by barrierblue66

Sadly, this is part of our overall economic problem today. Build cheap crap in China, when it breaks, not worth repairing, just buy more cheap crap. It's nice to be able to actually fix something that's broken rather than discard/replace.

So being a stubborn a hole I took this thing completely apart inspected every solder joint and connection found nodda reassembled and to my surprise it worked alas only for a few minutes had my hopes up there is a red led light when that goes out so does the motor I feel it may be a heat sink or something that controls the power for the motor the switch works correctly with variable resistance from 0 up when I cycle the on off switch the motor comes on then stalls sometimes will stay on longer than others but always the same ending so disappointed as I am disabled and on a real tight budget that's why I got it in the first place but it was never used and I figured I would get some svc out of it my friend has a cheap HF Gas welder that is 4 years old and still going wtf so at this point I will have to rob peter to pay Paul so I can get my car done the console will have to wait ho ho hum.