[FunctionalShaker]

Steve,
We don't have enough "Biblical" these days, that's why the world's in the shape it's in.

I like your follow up, Overuld. Sounds like a plan.

[njsteve]

Originally Posted by Norwood

I can't wait to see the restoration of Rachel. This is kind of a sad day here, almost like when your first child leaves for college....

I'm actually coming up on that milestone next year! So I want to get another project quickly enough that we all can build the engine together like I did with my daughter and the 72 back when she was in 4th grade and my son last year with my Gramma's 75 Firebird.

There's nothing like having your kids arguing over who got to install more pistons than the other one. :-)

[keepat]

Steve,
I’m sorry to hear you sold your 72 T/A, but I’m with you on the hunt is better than the kill! Restoring my sons 68 Mustang has keep me busy and out of the car market, but I’m starting to think about another project. No what my favorite car project is? The next one!
Good hunting!
Pat

[pedlondarite]

Makes me want to get mine up on a hoist and try blasting a section to see what I get. Mine is pretty clean underneath but I can't see the red oxide paint (have spotted it on the interior side of the firewall only so far).

[Formulabruce]

wax and grease remover, and a rag.. DX330 will work.

[njsteve]

I just got a message that the collector that bought my 72 T/A featured in this thread is interested in selling it, and a couple other of his cars, to acquire another couple cars he has been hunting for.

He wants $68,000 for it. He doesn't have a Cars On Line ad for it yet. But I think if you need any photos just thread through the previous 80 pages or so. :-)

Here is Rick's ad on PY: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...45#post4751845

If anyone is interested, PM me and I will put you in contact with him.

He also has that time capsule 13,000 mile red 73 455 4 speed (nonSD) T/A that is up for sale as well as a 69 H/O and a 70 Cuda 440+6. All the cars are amazing and he is a very good guy to deal with. I have driven the 73 and it is nice!

http://www.cars-on-line.com/62999.html 73 455 4 speed T/A

http://www.cars-on-line.com/63019.html 1970 440+6 Cuda

http://www.cars-on-line.com/63018.html 1969 Hurst Olds

[njsteve]

In case anyone wants a souvenier from this never-ending thread, I have the original set of Armasteel connecting rods and the 9799103 nodular crankshaft for sale. :-)

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=716890

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...08#post4817908

[Mezzo]

Originally Posted by njsteve

Got the frame painted and partially assembled. I had the wife help me gently lower (read that as drop) it off of the saw horses and onto the ground after taking the photos. It was getting a bit too heavy up on the stands. Now at least all the hard work is done and the rest of the steering and other stuff can go on. It's also much more handy to be able to roll it around the garage on a set of tires.

And yes, I am still using that "Abdominizer 5000" as a partial frame stand. It will be available for rental once I'm done with this project.

How did you get those upper and lower control arms on with those HD springs? Was there a particular spring compressor you used?

[njsteve]

I used the old style spring compressor with the threaded rod and the staggered clamping arms. It was not fun.

[Mezzo]

I've used one before and it is not fun. I was just wondering it there were other methods. It would be interesting to know how the factory did it back in 1972. My guess is they used some sort in hydraulic press when assembling the subframe.

[njsteve]

The repair manual shows a special cradle that holds the lower control are level at three points and raises it up to compress the spring and install the arm. Us mere mortals have to try to get the already installed lower arm hinged down low enough to try to insert the coil and then kick it into place to get it to bend at the right angle to engage in the lower spring seat.

[165th]

Originally Posted by njsteve

... Us mere mortals have to try to get the already installed lower arm hinged down low enough to try to insert the coil and then kick it into place to get it to bend at the right angle to engage in the lower spring seat.

.... Without scratching the powdercoat! Here's a picture of the spring compressor I've been using.

Be sure you loop and bolt a chain through the upper and lower A arms and spring after the spring is compressed when you are removing the spindle just to be safe.

[njsteve]

Yup, that's the same contraption I used. And I second that motion for the retention chain. You can be killed by an unrestrained coil spring that breaks loose during the install/removal process.

[Dens71TA]

I install the springs like in the service manual using the ball joint as the hinge. The springs go strait in and you just jack up the control up and install the bolts. Its about a 20 minute job and MUCH safer! You don't have to try to curve the spring or tightly compress it to get it into the upper and lower spring pockets like when using the bushing side as the pivot point.

[Formulabruce]

Originally Posted by Dens71TA

I install the springs like in the service manual using the ball joint as the hinge. The springs go strait in and you just jack up the control up and install the bolts. Its about a 20 minute job and MUCH safer! You don't have to try to curve the spring or tightly compress it to get it into the upper and lower spring pockets like when using the bushing side as the pivot point.

I have seen a car lift up and jack slide, roll, right out doing this method, but I have seen it work, bolt alignment is tedious with all that stress. Engine in car is a must.
An Inner spring compressor will slide up into the shock hole. make sure its a forged one, and use a safety chain as mentioned. Youll have to disassemble the compressor for removal but thats no big deal.

[pontiac1981]

I'll bet the water co is gone to love you. The pressure washer was able to remove undercoating and leave the paint? what PSI was the washer and did you use any chemical's? detergents, solvents ETC. Thanks

[njsteve]

All I used was tap water. I previously sprayed the underside with Purplestuff degreaser and let that soak. Don't know what the PSI was but it was just a regular, hardware store pressure washer.

[2manyT/A'S]

Originally Posted by Dens71TA

I install the springs like in the service manual using the ball joint as the hinge. The springs go strait in and you just jack up the control up and install the bolts. Its about a 20 minute job and MUCH safer! You don't have to try to curve the spring or tightly compress it to get it into the upper and lower spring pockets like when using the bushing side as the pivot point.

Now THAT makes ALOT of sense........guess I should read the factory shop manual more...

Can you give us the rundown on the "uninstall" procedure using this method?

[pontiac1981]

Originally Posted by pontiac1981

I'll bet the water co is gone to love you. The pressure washer was able to remove undercoating and leave the paint? what PSI was the washer and did you use any chemical's? detergents, solvents ETC. Thanks

Thanks.

[RamAir]

It's For Sale and still looks really nice.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121523640696...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT