[screamingchief]

Originally Posted by Dick Boneske

All flaring tools are similar

I disagree,sorry.

Problem with most all the "double bar" style flaring tools is they clamp the line on the ends and the bars flex and the tube wants to push outta the tool when you start the flare.

Well not all of them are like that,the absolute best of that style of flaring tool is the Rigid Tools 345DL style flaring tool,see it does'nt clamp the line on the ends like the others do,it clamps right where the line is being held in the bars,so no flex and the line stays put,and with the hardened flaring adapters for doing double flares,it's clearly the "best bang for the buck" in flaring tools.

https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/345-manual-flare-tool

I've never had a problem using the Rigid flaring tool,even for the guy that only does this from time to time it's still worth every penny.

Beyond that Rigid flaring tool,yeah your looking at spending $250.00-$300.00 easy for one of those high end production style flaring tools.

But no doubt about it,,,the really cheap ones suck b@lls...

And yeah,make a nice straight cut,deburr both inside & outside edge of tube,and lube the dies.

HTH

Bret P.

[2002Z4CSS]

Using the tool correctly the wing nuts should be hand tight. I never used pliers on mine in the 35 years I owned the tool. Maybe the cheaper tools don't grip the tubing correctly these days.

[judgethis]

Ive got an old SK one and the dies are starting to wear out and don't hold the tube well depending on the size. I got one of the Mastercraft ones and love it. Also got one from Inline tube that mounts in the vice and its easier to use than the Mastercraft, only down fall is it needs to be mounted in the vice. Makes perfect flares.
X2 on the prep though, straight cuts and no burrs.

[pontiac1981]

Originally Posted by Dick Boneske

Making double flares is an acquired skill. All flaring tools are similar and will yield good results (unless they're worn out) once you get familiar with the procedure.

I am about to do this on my '96 Buick Roadmaster wagon---under the driver's side door where the line always rusts through first. Problem doing it on the car is finding an area where you can maneuver the tool. I'm tempted to replace the entire line from master cyl. to manifold block on the rear axle, but don't want to risk damaging the fitting in the rear.

Dumb question---Why does the front master cyl. reservoir empty when the rear brake line leaks?

The front reservoir on the master is for the rear brakes and the rear reservoir is for the front brakes, it has something to do with the pedal rod pressure to the master cylinder.

[pontiac1981]

Originally Posted by zeebo

i was thinking in the future to buy the nice hand held hydraulic flaring tool. buddy did his car with one..no leaks..not one. tho i live close to inline tube, and they have done all my pump to carb lines nicer and about as cheap as i could do them. probably use them for brake lines someday.

I bought from Inline tube for all the brake lines on my 81 Trans Am and they were a very close fit, for price it wasn't worth the head aches bending and flaring the line myself. Oh yeah! and it saves a hell of lot of time. I needed both front lines for my Ranger, they had them. Look them up on their web.

[1969GiPper]

About a year or so ago I had the rear cross-car brake pipe on my 1997 GP rust out. I figured no big deal as I've made a lot of double flares using my Blue Point (snap-on) tool. Surprise came when I found out that the pipes and fittings were "bubble flares" and not the typical double flares. I got lucky as the length of pre-made "bubble flare" tubing I bought was the perfect size once bent to shape. Had that not happened I would have had to buy the tool for making the "bubble flares". Anyone have to make the "bubble flares" yet with the new tool?

[Judas]

Originally Posted by 2002Z4CSS

Using the tool correctly the wing nuts should be hand tight. I never used pliers on mine in the 35 years I owned the tool. Maybe the cheaper tools don't grip the tubing correctly these days.

Bullseye. The cheapest ones wont grip the tube no matter how tight you make them. The tolerances are just that poor. The 35$ one I have will, but you have to make the wing nuts extremely tight.

I used a tubing cutter to try and get the straightest cut I could, then deburred the inside and outside with fine files. I would not say that I went as far as radiusing them though; just a quick deburring. I did lube everything too, so its a lack of experience combined with questionable tools.

Someone suggested pre-bent lines, but I basically have a custom brake system; 4-wheel disc with an aftermarket adj. proportioning valve, not mounted in the stock location.

Good info on this thread though; thanks a lot. I am going to look at utilizing some straight lenghts off the shelf next to minimize the number of flares I have to make.

[rohrt]

Originally Posted by pontiac1981

it wasn't worth the head aches bending and flaring the line myself.

x2

This is what I discovered myself. My trek to bend my own SS line and flare them was a huge waste of time and money. I bought three flaring tools, and even the Rigid brand chucked in vise wouldn't hold the SS lines when trying to flare them. Mild steel was no problem but was not going to re-bend all the lined at that point. I will do some lines on small jobs but If I had a car that I was restoring I would just get a kit.

[2002Z4CSS]

Originally Posted by 1969GiPper

About a year or so ago I had the rear cross-car brake pipe on my 1997 GP rust out. I figured no big deal as I've made a lot of double flares using my Blue Point (snap-on) tool. Surprise came when I found out that the pipes and fittings were "bubble flares" and not the typical double flares. I got lucky as the length of pre-made "bubble flare" tubing I bought was the perfect size once bent to shape. Had that not happened I would have had to buy the tool for making the "bubble flares". Anyone have to make the "bubble flares" yet with the new tool?

You can make a bubble flare that won't leak using a standard double flaring tool. Look it up on you tube. Just one step of the double flare is used.

[60man]

Guess I've been lucky all these years. I picked up my line flaring set when I was in tool business over 30 years ago..WOW! Think it's a Lisle or Standard brand.....branded MATCO>
Never tried SS line....knew it was too hard. Always used a "sharp" tubing cutter and clean up inside with a "DEburring tool" and cleaned up outside with crocus cloth..
YES...there is such a thing as a DEburring tool.. Get one.
Don't forget on a double flare..what's on the out side before...is going to be the sealing surface when done..

Nobody's perfect....but ought to get most done right...

[screamingchief]

For those talking about flaring stainless steel tubing,there is a lot more to that deal than many folks are aware of.

First thing first,depending on the type of SS tube,often double flaring SS tube is'nt even remotely recommended,especially it it's generic seamed SS tube,as that type of tube tends to crack @ the seam when trying to make the double flare.

If one absolutely has to double flare SS tube,they really NEED to be using seamless/annealed (softened) SS tube specifically made for such.

Often the tubing for such is double annealed.

More often than not many will still recommend using 37° single flares w/SS tube vs. 45° double flares.

And 37° flares typically require a different flaring tool,typically those flaring tools will use some sort of mechanical force multiplication (hydraulics etc.) like those expensive production style flaring tools employ,as it's pretty much taken for granted that the 37° flare tools are going to be used on SS tubing sooner or later.

So,flaring stainless steel tubing is'nt really intended to be the relm of the "DIY" or "hobbyist" types,I mean no doubt,sure it can be done,but anyone trying to do so had better expect the frustration level to be significantly greater than using any other style of tubing in just about every respect.

FWIW

Bret P.

[george kujanski]

I used the Mastercool hydraulic tool and annealed SS tube, worked well, no leaks.

I wouldn't try it at all with the cheaper tools.

George

[Captainofiron]

Dont know if anyone has mentioned it, but when you do stainless tubing, make 100% sure that you cut it with a sharp tool, and something that will not work harden the material (like this http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pro...7af354_300.jpg)

the problem is that stainless steel will get very hard when you cold work it like with those tubing cutters, and then micro cracks (or big cracks) will form on the flare

if you do use one of those cutters you will really need to remove alot of the material to get back to the plain stainless steel that isnt hardened.

[Captainofiron]

Originally Posted by screamingchief

For those talking about flaring stainless steel tubing,there is a lot more to that deal than many folks are aware of.

First thing first,depending on the type of SS tube,often double flaring SS tube is'nt even remotely recommended,especially it it's generic seamed SS tube,as that type of tube tends to crack @ the seam when trying to make the double flare.

If one absolutely has to double flare SS tube,they really NEED to be using seamless/annealed (softened) SS tube specifically made for such.

Often the tubing for such is double annealed.

More often than not many will still recommend using 37° single flares w/SS tube vs. 45° double flares.

And 37° flares typically require a different flaring tool,typically those flaring tools will use some sort of mechanical force multiplication (hydraulics etc.) like those expensive production style flaring tools employ,as it's pretty much taken for granted that the 37° flare tools are going to be used on SS tubing sooner or later.

So,flaring stainless steel tubing is'nt really intended to be the relm of the "DIY" or "hobbyist" types,I mean no doubt,sure it can be done,but anyone trying to do so had better expect the frustration level to be significantly greater than using any other style of tubing in just about every respect.

FWIW

Bret P.

we use 304/316 stainless and the AN style fittings alot here at work, and there was a really big investigation into the flare cracking. Ended up that we needed to get new dies for the facing tool after the technicians would cut the tubing to length

it can be done by a DIYer, just make sure to follow the proper steps.

1) cut with a hacksaw (dont use tubing cutter)
2) file down face flat
3) use a tubing deburring tool which will also chamfer on the inside and outside (make sure tool is very sharp and is for the angle of flare you are trying to make, they are different)
4) put it in the flaring machine/tool

[BlueGTO]

I know you are not looking to spend this kind of money but I got one from Eastwood maby 10 years ago it was money well spent.

http://www.eastwood.com/professional...ring-tool.html