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| Pontiac - Boost Turbo, supercharged, Nitrous, EFI & other Power Adders discussed here. |
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#21
05-10-2016, 08:34 PM
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Looks good! Nice engine porn.
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#22
05-11-2016, 09:49 AM
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Cool project. Looks to be a fun sleeper.
Have a soft spot for that body style... 1st 455 I ever drove was my Grandmothers new 71 Bonnie! |
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#23
07-29-2016, 12:07 AM
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Victor intake question
Fitting my intake and looked at how ports matched to intake without fel pro gasket and doesn't look optimal at all to me.intake was suppose to have been port matched to my heads but looks off.with the gaskets on its worse.Looks like the whole intake needs to drop maybe .060 or maybe more.can a new victor be cut to get where I need to be?
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#24
07-29-2016, 12:10 AM
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Pics problem
Somebody's got to tell me how to get these pics right side up.not smart enough to figure it out.spent a hour trying different things but give up.
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#25
07-29-2016, 06:46 AM
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Here you go.
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#26
07-29-2016, 07:05 AM
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Quote:
(the Victor has big port openings?) With the intake gasket (does it match head ports?) on and the intake bolted down, take intake off and see what the impressions look like on the gasket? If the bottom of intake port also needs to go lower, you can mill the intake, but it would basically just fit your heads then? Have the heads been milled previously? Possibly the intake side of head wasn't also milled if so? 
__________________
John Wallace - johnta1 Pontiac Power RULES !!! www.wallaceracing.com Winner of Top Class at Pontiac Nationals, 2004 Cordova Winner of Quick 16 At Ames 2004 Pontiac Tripower Nats KRE's MR-1 - 1st 5 second Pontiac block ever! W.E.C moment "Every man has a right to his own opinion, but no man has a right to be wrong in his facts." "People demand freedom of speech to make up for the freedom of thought which they avoid." – Socrates |
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#27
07-29-2016, 12:06 PM
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Yes , block has been squared up and so have the heads.with gaskets the intake is even higher.
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#28
07-29-2016, 03:38 PM
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Looks like you will need to trim the intake where the valve covers sit too. If you run aluminum covers you have to. The Victor is made for a wide variety of heads so it has a ton of material on it. It's like a trim and cut to fit.
The Northwind(KRE) will need less work and is a little shorter. If you need .060 you split that to each side, and take the gasket into consideration. |
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#29
07-29-2016, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
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#30
07-29-2016, 06:18 PM
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Nash/Warrior intakes were pretty thin (in comparison to the typical Victor New Intake), and they still sealed up fine.
The Victor intake, as was said, has a lot of material to play with to get close to where you want to be height wise on the port. Get the height right, then work on the sides a bit to match stuff up. It does not hurt if the head port is slightly larger vs the intake port but hard to have with a stock Victor intake port stock (with the design of the Victor intake being based off RA-IV port applications). Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
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#31
08-14-2016, 07:40 PM
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What do you think about epoxy on the top of the intake runners and clean up the bottom of the runner to get the ports lined up.I don't have a machinist in my area that I trust to mill my intake.what brand epoxy and where do I get it?what kind of prep for epoxy.or should I just Send this intake off and get it milled.what is estimated cost for that procedure?
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#32
08-14-2016, 10:26 PM
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In my opinion I would mill the intake before using epoxy. You would have to go pretty far into the ports to straighten them out and I'd be afraid of it coming loose. Splash zone is a good epoxy that people use for this kind of stuff. I've used it before. It's good stuff, but it was $75 for the two parts years ago. BES in Sunman Indiana milled my intake for $120.
If it helps we milled .120" from my Victor to get it to sit right. My block has been milled too. |
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#33
08-15-2016, 07:40 AM
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I think you need to mill it ...
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My Half AN Injun..... |
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#34
01-08-2017, 10:26 PM
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Its alive
Ended up getting intake milled then cut the crossover off.crossover was so low that the valley pan was interfering even after clearanced as far as I could go.I had to clearance for the intake also,drilled and tapped factory crossover to 1/2 npt and -10 line to the back of the heads.Finally got this engine together and ran it today on engine stand with full exhaust and cooling system. Found out my turbo cam that was suppose to be a 4/7 swap wasn't.says right on the cam card.after start up noticed with temp gun that 4 and 7 wasn't right.swapped back to normal firing order and all good.
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#35
02-08-2017, 10:55 PM
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Headers
Just about got my headers done.cut up some sbc stainless turbo headers with pontiac flanges and made these.not perfect by a long shot.1 5/8 tubes,2 1/2 outlet.
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#36
02-08-2017, 11:07 PM
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Nice! getting closer. I call the one header I made that goes around the steering box Frankenstein!! It aint pretty but works perfect!
Last edited by JSPONT; 02-08-2017 at 11:07 PM. Reason: added |
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#37
02-08-2017, 11:38 PM
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Headers
Thinking I need to cut flange for expansion.what do y'all think? Also do I need flex couplings or bellows on both hot pipes to the turbo?I'm looking at the Vibrant brand couplings and or bellows.want to header wrap all of the hot side and need a recommendation on that as well.
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#38
02-09-2017, 12:27 AM
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I did not use flex couplings, nor did I wrap the crossover, only the down pipe. The stainless I used was thick and so far no issues with any cracks. I used a bunch of stuff from Vibrant. It is all good. To be on the safe side you could weld in the flex couplings. Some say it helps. I also matters what and how you mout the engine. solid mounts and the engine does not move, rubber mounts and the engine will dance up and down so the coupling could be needed. I did the poly mounts but have the engine chained to the frame, It does not move.
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#39
02-09-2017, 10:18 AM
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Awsome project. Subscribed.
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#40
02-09-2017, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Stainless parts do not need heat wrap to keep in the heat. When you trap heat in stainless pipe it just grows even more in dimensions. Non-stainless pipe will destroy itself from the inside with thermal wrap. If you are trying to keep away from parts like Brake Master Cylinder, etc use 1/2" clearance heat deflecter shields to keep the parts cool. Massive amounts of air pass thru the engine compartment when the vehicle is at any speed over 30 mph. It will carry away the heat unless the part is wrapped. Food for thought. Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
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