[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by grivera

Napa Gold 1258 and any 10W30 oil with bottle of zinc addative

Great basic recommendation. NAPA oil filters are made by WIX in North Carolina. They sell as WIX, NAPA, and CarQuest. They make a quality filter. Much of his thread speaks to the advantage of modifying the filtration system to a bypass type and I can't add anything that hasn't been said. If staying with a stock type filter system, I would recommend using a quality filter like WIX, passenger car type, not a racing filter. The media will almost always be designed to filter smaller particles in a passenger car filter. It's always a delicate balancing act between particle size, total amount of filter area, and bypass. With a full flow system, there is virtually no way only filtered oil is entering the engine, some is going to be bypassed.
As far as oil choice goes, you could probably fill up the entire internet with all the opinions as people are certainly passionate about motor oil. For full disclosure, I will tell you my race team is sponsored by Valvolive, so of course we use all their products. There are a few facts that can't be disputed by those who know engine oil. 1. Synthetic oil is superior to mineral based as far as viscosity breakdown and cold pour characteristics. 2. Valvoline and many others are a type 5 synthetic base, the best base stock for engine oil. 3. Castrol and others use type 4 base stock, a less expensive base. 4. ZZDP amounts in typical oils have been reduced because when the engine consumes a little oil, the additives poison the catalytic converters. 5. Older non roller valve train engines will benefit from a small amount of ZZDP additive. 6. Oils designed for high mileage engines, at least the Valvoline lines, have more ZZDP still in the oil than their regular oils. 10W-30 weight is a nice weight for a fresh muscle car engine with street clearances through the engine. 10W-40 is almost obsolete and can be difficult to find now days. 20W-50 is an OK substitute for 10W-40 for warm weather driving where mileage is not a concern. 20W-50 may work well in an older, worn out muscle car engine where bearing clearance is larger and other wear adds up. All these weights are available synthetic and non-synthetic.
As a side note, on late model cars where 0W or 5W oild are specified, I strongly recommend staying with those recommendations. A check engine light and codes may be set by running oil that is too thick. Variable cam timing systems and cylinder de-activation systems depend on immediate pressure and flow through the tiny solenoids and passages to operate.