[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

I do like the floaters. 2 of my trucks have floater rears. Not only do I like the durability but it's extremely easy to work on.

As does my stake body (93 K3500 dually) and my (88 S1600 IH) wrecker.

For all the advantages of a floater axle I wouldn't even think twice about putting a 9 inch floater under my next street car project. The cost is nearly the same as a flanged axle unit. Replacement axles are $75 each, much cheaper than a flanged axle. No pressing bearings off and on either. Simplicity, durability, no weight penalty, and ease of service, all good things.

I was just doing some reading on the corporate 14 bolt that comes in the chevy, GMC trucks. It is much stronger than a Dana 60, (they compare it to a Dana 70) but it's surely heavier too. They say with 40 inch tires on an off road rig with 500 HP + they will survive with just GM parts in them, 10.5 inch ring gear. It would be overkill for a street car and too heavy for a race car, just throwing the info out there though.

[HWYSTR455]

Floater assemblies also alleviate any pad/caliper kickback, which is the reason circuit track folks like them.

One thing with floater ends, I think the caliper brackets are limited, so you would probably have to fab some to get the brakes you want. The Chican ones I believe accept both, popular Ford and GM caliper brackets, or they make ends for either. (would have to check again)

I think the standard bolt pattern for popular floater ends is 5 x 5. Strange makes a conversion kit for 12 bolts, but have heard you can't narrow the rear beyond X, there is a certain space required between the flange and the control arm brackets on a GM car.

Because of the fab etc, is probably why most don't consider using floaters on street car projects.

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[HWYSTR455]

Someone is making a C5/C6 rear hub conversion for 10/12 bolts, I forget who is doing that, maybe Speedtech or Kore3?

.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

As does my stake body (93 K3500 dually) and my (88 S1600 IH) wrecker.

For all the advantages of a floater axle I wouldn't even think twice about putting a 9 inch floater under my next street car project. The cost is nearly the same as a flanged axle unit. Replacement axles are $75 each, much cheaper than a flanged axle. No pressing bearings off and on either. Simplicity, durability, no weight penalty, and ease of service, all good things.

I was just doing some reading on the corporate 14 bolt that comes in the chevy, GMC trucks. It is much stronger than a Dana 60, (they compare it to a Dana 70) but it's surely heavier too. They say with 40 inch tires on an off road rig with 500 HP + they will survive with just GM parts in them, 10.5 inch ring gear. It would be overkill for a street car and too heavy for a race car, just throwing the info out there though.

My 79 1 ton is exactly that, 14 bolt full floater. They have proven bullet proof in the off road and rock crawling world.

What I would be interested in knowing, if say, we went floater on a street car. How far out would that floater assembly protrude from the wheel?? Because on my trucks they stick out pretty far necessitating a very deep hubcap, which would limit the kind of wheel package you could use on a street car.

If that floater could be shorter, or nearly flush with the wheel, it could work. Then there is possibly a diameter issue with street car wheels???

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Floater assemblies also alleviate any pad/caliper kickback, which is the reason circuit track folks like them.

One thing with floater ends, I think the caliper brackets are limited, so you would probably have to fab some to get the brakes you want. The Chican ones I believe accept both, popular Ford and GM caliper brackets, or they make ends for either. (would have to check again)


Because of the fab etc, is probably why most don't consider using floaters on street car projects.

.

My 79 floater is drums in the rear. VERY big drums too. Likely one reason why GM did 16.5" wheels on it. 15's won't fit around those drums, lol.
But maybe a smaller drum option would be available to eliminate the caliper bracket issue seen on the later model 14 bolts???
I'm thinking wheels are going to be a big factor in street cars which could be one reason why we aren't seeing it done.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

... How far out would that floater assembly protrude from the wheel?? Because on my trucks they stick out pretty far necessitating a very deep hubcap, which would limit the kind of wheel package you could use on a street car.

If that floater could be shorter, or nearly flush with the wheel, it could work. Then there is possibly a diameter issue with street car wheels???

This is kind of what I was trying to say. The Chican one is much more narrow, and can fit in a tighter space.

The C5/C6 'hybrid' hub is also a much smaller package, uses the large OE type sealed bearings, but technically is not a 'true' floater. The axle does pass through the hub though, splined on both ends, prevents kickback/knockback, and drastically reduces flex. I will look that up when I get a chance, but that I would think is the hot ticket, especially if you also use AFX spindles. You would be able to source front/rear brakes from a C5/C6 and would bolt right on.

I have a Moser 12 with the OE style tapered bearings in my A-body. From side loads, and due to power levels (and abuse), it eats axles bearings in like 20-30k miles. And that's almost 100% of the time on street tires.

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[Sirrotica]

The hub and drive plate doesn't stick out far enough to warrant not using them. They also list 4.75 as well as 5 inch bolt circles available, seems 4.5 is too small, at least there isn't a listing for 4.5 bolt circle.

These hybrid 9 inch floaters are primarily used on limited class circle track cars that forbid using a quick change because of the cost. Because of the lateral loads seen on this type of race car constantly the floater has an advantage over a flanged axle rear and also there is a safety factor because these cars tend to rub wheels during racing. A broken axle doesn't result in a wheel coming off of the car as may happen with a flanged axle. I know that the bearing retainer and rotor on a flanged axle is "supposed" to keep the wheel with the car, however in reality the wheel can still become off of the car.

One other factor is handling can be enhanced by adding camber into the rear axle, not something most people think of for a street car. A floater will tolerate a small amount of camber (I believe about 1 degree) no problem. It's not needed in a drag car, and wouldn't help, but in a specialized corner carver, it can be an advantage.

Although I haven't checked with a manufacturer, I believe they can supply most any caliper mount installed. Some oval track rules require either GM cast iron caliper, metric as come on G body fronts, or the A body caliper that GM used since 1969, D52. If you wanted an aluminum caliper I'm sure they could fab it and weld it/bolt it to the housing.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

The hub and drive plate doesn't stick out far enough to warrant not using them. They also list 4.75 as well as 5 inch bolt circles available, seems 4.5 is too small, at least there isn't a listing for 4.5 bolt circle.

These hybrid 9 inch floaters are primarily used on limited class circle track cars that forbid using a quick change because of the cost. Because of the lateral loads seen on this type of race car constantly the floater has an advantage over a flanged axle rear and also there is a safety factor because these cars tend to rub wheels during racing. A broken axle doesn't result in a wheel coming off of the car as may happen with a flanged axle. I know that the bearing retainer and rotor on a flanged axle is "supposed" to keep the wheel with the car, however in reality the wheel can still become off of the car.

One other factor is handling can be enhanced by adding camber into the rear axle, not something most people think of for a street car. A floater will tolerate a small amount of camber (I believe about 1 degree) no problem. It's not needed in a drag car, and wouldn't help, but in a specialized corner carver, it can be an advantage.

Although I haven't checked with a manufacturer, I believe they can supply most any caliper mount installed. Some oval track rules require either GM cast iron caliper, metric as come on G body fronts, or the A body caliper that GM used since 1969, D52. If you wanted an aluminum caliper I'm sure they could fab it and weld it/bolt it to the housing.

I like that.

[Murf]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

The hub and drive plate doesn't stick out far enough to warrant not using them. They also list 4.75 as well as 5 inch bolt circles available, seems 4.5 is too small, at least there isn't a listing for 4.5 bolt circle.

These hybrid 9 inch floaters are primarily used on limited class circle track cars that forbid using a quick change because of the cost. Because of the lateral loads seen on this type of race car constantly the floater has an advantage over a flanged axle rear and also there is a safety factor because these cars tend to rub wheels during racing. A broken axle doesn't result in a wheel coming off of the car as may happen with a flanged axle. I know that the bearing retainer and rotor on a flanged axle is "supposed" to keep the wheel with the car, however in reality the wheel can still become off of the car.

One other factor is handling can be enhanced by adding camber into the rear axle, not something most people think of for a street car. A floater will tolerate a small amount of camber (I believe about 1 degree) no problem. It's not needed in a drag car, and wouldn't help, but in a specialized corner carver, it can be an advantage.

Although I haven't checked with a manufacturer, I believe they can supply most any caliper mount installed. Some oval track rules require either GM cast iron caliper, metric as come on G body fronts, or the A body caliper that GM used since 1969, D52. If you wanted an aluminum caliper I'm sure they could fab it and weld it/bolt it to the housing.

Looks like just the thing for those who are breaking their wimpy ole standard 9"ers in their street/strip cars.

Sent from my Z936L using Tapatalk

[1966socalgoat]

I bought my bolt in a-body 4.75" bolt Moser full floater setup with axles for under a grand from Schwartz performance with 31 spline axles, big enough for what I am doing. They can provide any caliper bracket you need ie wilwood, gm metric etc. Sourced a NASCAR pumpkin with the gears I needed. Wheels can be an issue. I turned down the axle flange cover that Moser supplied. That was the only thing that got in the way.

[gene simmons]

Has the OP contacted Quick performance yet?

[TheSilverBuick]

Sometimes that crow is delicious.

[64speed]

Why did chief of the 60s get suspended?

[redhawk44]

Originally Posted by gene simmons

Has the OP contacted Quick performance yet?

I haven't been in contact with them or any other suppliers yet, I started this thread for input on which way to go.

[redhawk44]

Originally Posted by TheSilverBuick

Sometimes that crow is delicious.

When I do eat crow, ketchup seems to help getting it down. But I haven't decided on it yet.

[HWYSTR455]

I know those grand national floater ends look good, but I do recall there being an issue running them. On A bodies, I thought it was due to the lower control arm being in the way, but am not recalling. I know you have to be careful about wheel inset because of the lower control arm points, mine were very close with like a 6.6" inset 11 wide wheel, though my housing is narrowed like a 1/2" on each side. There's a market for the new style floating hubs because of the reasons, and that's why they're being brought to the market.

On 2nd gen F bodies, the leaf perch and leaf are close when trying to run the widest wheel and tire possible, so know there's reasons there too. When I did the homework on the 9" housing and had it made, I looked at the offerings for floaters and found it wasn't going to work for me, but that housing too is slightly narrowed. I know I posted the build sheet of that housing here before as a reference.

Not saying it can't be done, just saying be careful if you go that direction. If you have a custom housing made, it's yours. There's no one that I know that will accept a return. (But they will mod it if you need it, for a charge of course)

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[Sirrotica]

My next project will have the truck style trailing arms so there should be plenty of room for wide tires. The trailing arms articulate better and provide a long arm to improve traction. Hot rods to Hell style rear suspension on air ride. Not a big fan of rear leaf suspension after weighing pros and cons of both systems. The air ride is about compliance and as adjustable and should work well for my needs.

The air ride I built for my dually works even better than I anticipated.

[mikes2nd]

I picked up a ford GT 500 rear end from Roush and put it in the back of my 70 GTO three link watts with coil overs.

And I added a watts link adapter, and a true trac(Torsen) posi... I did if for 80% less than gm stuff. I'm not stock though I also made adapter plates for C6 Z06 brakes/parking brake and I have ford bolt pattern already! no more dumb gm bolt pattern. I got z06 hubs for the front with the same pattern. Used a ford stabilizer bar also..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JEiSTzK-A2A

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

My next project will have the truck style trailing arms so there should be plenty of room for wide tires. The trailing arms articulate better and provide a long arm to improve traction. Hot rods to Hell style rear suspension on air ride. Not a big fan of rear leaf suspension after weighing pros and cons of both systems. The air ride is about compliance and as adjustable and should work well for my needs.

The air ride I built for my dually works even better than I anticipated.

I've looked at the long arm setups from HR2H, and thought about doing it several times. The big advantage of it is that it overcomes several design flaws of the original GM 4 link, handles way better. They made it mandatory for NASCAR, since the dangers the 4 links have on an oval. One issue for me was that the kits are not inexpensive, and the fact it's best to have a jig when installing. But it is the hot ticket.

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[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by mikes2nd

I picked up a ford GT 500 rear end from Roush and put it in the back of my 70 GTO three link watts with coil overs.

And I added a watts link adapter, and a true trac(Torsen) posi... I did if for 80% less than gm stuff. I'm not stock though I also made adapter plates for C6 Z06 brakes/parking brake and I have ford bolt pattern already! no more dumb gm bolt pattern. I got z06 hubs for the front with the same pattern. Used a ford stabilizer bar also..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JEiSTzK-A2A

You have pics of that installed? I'm interested. You say you had the front hubs redrilled for a Ford bolt pattern? Or did I misunderstand?

.