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| THE LOBBY A gathering place. Introductions, sports, showin' off your ride, birthday-anniversary-milestone, achievements, family oriented humor. |
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#21
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All good ideas. I've thought about raising the whole building but then I'm looking at a complete re-wire. The main feed is buried and paved over. I don't know if I would be able to pull longer wires in. I have pored base walls that are about 15" tall so I'm not sure how to go about adding to the top of that.
One good thing he did when the garage was build is that he ran the doors right up to the ceiling. I loose about 3" but with the depth of the garage it wouldn't get in the way. I would just have to move the lift towards the rear. I can get away with what I have but a little more would be nice. Thanks again guys. You gave me some things to think about.
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67 Firebird Convertible |
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#22
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At least he over build the floor. LOL He went 12" around the edges, 5" thick for the slab and used 4000 psi concrete.
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67 Firebird Convertible |
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#23
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That video raising the garage was pretty cool
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#24
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Basically this is what I had done to mine. Been a long time but I think we raise it 2 feet.
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#25
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No, use 5000 pound cement with the fiberglass in it and good reinforcing wire or re-rod. 6" thick with 12 in footings... and a 12 footing every 1/3 of the width front to back. Believe me you'll be glad you did. My garage has 8" footings and only a 5" slab with what I believe is 4000 pound cement and no fiberglass in it. It's cracking on me and I've owned the property for 10 years. The garage was built in 2002. With all of the weight of the cars, lifts and tools you'll need all the strength you can get in the floor so it will last. I might sound nuts but I've seen guys go the cheap way and they're sorry they did. Same goes for a few machine shop floors I've seen.
I put a thin pad down for steps when you come off the edge to the driveway at the garage and to step down into the backyard. It's only 3 inches thick with wire mesh and fiberglass in the 5000 pound cement mix. The end of 16" high x 30" wide cement pad, poured block actually, in front of the man door sits on the edge this pad and is heavy as all hell. It hasn't cracked at all even with the cold and wet weather weather we've.
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![]() Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
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#26
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Have you considered installing 2 car doors at the side of the building? it looks like you have the space.
This way you could use the extra height under the ridge beam in the middle of the building to accommodate the space needed for the car on the lift. Doing this you would only have to add scissor trusses where the lift is. Just a thought? |
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#27
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Quote:
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67 Firebird Convertible |
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#28
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You people and your big garages and lots of land and low taxes... ALL SUCK! (In a good way
)I just bought this and am trying to squeeze a lift inside my 9'7" ceiling with a beam! Maybe I can raise the buildings of the entire row of town houses! LOL Oh, and as to the OP, wouldn't adding on be the best use of money, assuming you have the space and code allows for bigger garage? Add on one more bay with higher ceiling and lift. ![]() ![]()
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Adam __________________ 1964 LeGTO 469, M21, 3.42 __________________ Sold: 1968 Pontiac LeMans Convertible See it go HERE |
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#29
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Recently helped a friend raise his ceiling from 10' to 14'. Cut out 4 trusses. This is what an engineer recomme
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#30
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Quote:
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67 Firebird Convertible |
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#31
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Quote:
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67 Firebird Convertible |
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#32
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So, we have a "collector car" Firebird and a boat that stay inside, a truck that stays outside and we are getting a new Corvette to stay inside.
Do we need the lift for vertical storage or for maintenance, repair work? Is the garage for JUST car/boat stuff or is it going to get its share of lawnmowers, garden tools. etc.? Is there storage in the loft? Are the ceiling joists strong enough for loft storage? Is it going to have an air compressor setup? Work bench? So, if I have a lift, do I put the Firebird on top or the new Corvette? What if there is a fire and electric service is lost? Which car do I want to save? What kind of fire suppression system do I have in my garage? I vote for a new separate building, big enough for a single car storage and workshop (and maybe paint booth area). Or, maybe, A few hundred dollars spent on a set of dollies, floor jack and jack stands would work. P.S. I would paint the interior white to improve the lighting. |
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#33
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Trust me I hate that my truck stays outside and if I can I would add 2 lifts. One for the cars and one for the boat. LOL The Firebird stays inside for obvious reasons and my bassboat because I have to much money in tackle and stuff to leave it outside. Future plans are to add carports to each side so I can have covered parking for the truck.
The lift is for all the above. It's something I've wanted for a long time and will serve multiple uses. Stuff inside is a 4 wheeler, snowmobile, Firebird, boat, riding lawn mower, snowblower, tools and an air compressor. It's pretty full. Whatever isn't being driven would be up in the air but playing musical cars would be a pain. I do that already with the mower during the summer. If it's not blocking the car it's in the way of the boat. At least during the winter it's only the sled and snowblower that comes out so it's a little easier. The off season stuff is lined up in the middle. A fire would be catastrophic but I do keep everything I own with the exception of my beater car (2002 Saturn) fully insured. Some kind of suppression would be nice especially after I put in a heating system. Unfortunately I really don't have the room for a second building and to add to the length of what I have now would come with a whole new set of issues. The yard behind the garage holds water during the summer so I would have deal with that and there is a 15" pored wall around the garage that would have to be cut out to open it up. So no matter what I do it's not going to be an easy task. Oh and painting is high on the list of things to do along with adding better lights. And a dump run is a must. LOL
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67 Firebird Convertible |
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#34
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I'm just vacillating over this myself. I have a 25 x 40 solid brick garage with a miserable 8'6" ceiling height inside.
Shallow pitched roof with colourbond corrugated iron roof sitting on preformed trusses. Thoughts on this are to simply dismantle the roof pulling the sheets of iron off first, then take down the trusses. On top of the brick walls we build a 5' 6" stud wall, then set the trusses back on top, re-roof it using the same steel. Over here, the "modern" way to build a 2 storey house is a brick base wall construction and a stud wall up top which is clad with a polystyrene hard foam sheet which is then rendered over and painted. Now as a house construction I think its crazy but I'm starting to think this is going to be a fairly economical way to get the internal head height I need. Maybe its something you could consider yourself
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To laugh at men of sense is the privilege of fools. |
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#35
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Quote:
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67 Firebird Convertible |
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#36
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The same thing as when they think a 24' x 44' 3 bay garage will be "PLENTY" big enough.
![]() There are two sizes of garage, too small and way too small.
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https://www.facebook.com/Outlaw-Vint...7899333725868/ |
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#37
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Ain't that the truth.
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67 Firebird Convertible |
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#38
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Here's my 32x22 5 car garage with workshop above..
![]() ![]() ![]() Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Mike/Illinois |
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#39
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Jealousy boiling over. Must. Control. Feelings...
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#40
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Nice setup
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67 Firebird Convertible |
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