[MD79TA]

Think I will stick to my 20w50 because I don't run in cold winter weather and what I been told by my builder 50 Is great for summer protection. I also run a stock oil pump and it runs 40/45 psi at 2800 rpm or 70 /75 mph on highway . Here is a great article on oil for the average person to read and learn. It a few years old but worth taking a few minutes to read. Doug https://www.google.com/amp/www.hotro...ngine-oil/amp/

[TedRamAirII]

Originally Posted by #1965GTO

Wow I can tell this group is a young crowd. You guys probably don't remember the old Kendal motor oils. The hand with two fingers, no not a peace sign. Two fingers represented 2000. The words on the signs said, "Kendal the 2000 mile motor oil". Those signs are highly collectable today.
And long before Honda stole this oil mileage system Cadillac had it for years. Our 93 Allante has that reminder that shows the percent of oil life remaining. At the push of a button and automatically gives you a warning at 10% left in the form of a spelled out message. That oil life is based on time, temp and load seen by the computer. That Northstar holds 7 1/2 quarts, my choice for that car and the 99 Blazer is Mobil 5000 mileage, these are both roller engines. The Northstar will average 600 to 7000 miles. We live in southern Nevada where the summer temps hit 120 plus on a regular basis.
My choice for the GTO, with a worked over 68 400, is VR-1. It's a little spendy unless you watch the NAPA sales fliers. About once a year they run it for around $6 a quart.
All in all the current engine and automotive technology is light years ahead of the 50s. Sheet metal wasn't galvanized, chrome rings hadn't been invented and oil bath air cleaners were all the rage. Lots of cars and trucks spent the majority of their life on dirt roads. My Dad's very nice little 55 2 door post Belair was ready for the junk yard with less than a 100k on the odometer. He always cared very well for our cars and regular oil changes.

The Kendall Oil "2 fingers" is the hand sign language for "K". The 2000 mile oil change was before engines had oil filters.

[aceaceca]

Ted, I am with you. Used to run Kendall motor oils back in the 60's and did try to change oil every 2000miles. Changed days with oils themselves and super long change intervals. Funny you mention Kendall as I have not used it in years. However, at the 99 cent only store just the other day they had Kendall 5w - 30w full synthetic oil for $2.99/qt. I could not believe it. I got 12 quarts and was a happy camper. Oil not however, for use in the GTO's. I then needed some filters so I watched some U Tube stuff where they cut them apart. I have used Wix before and heard they were good. I got 4 Wix HP filters from Rock Auto for 8 bucks each to the door. Only 6 bucks shipping. Never purchased from them before. So when I get my filters I will be ready to do oil changes on the Town cars for 24 bucks each.

[Sirrotica]

From the Kendall site: About our history

1928
Kendall becomes the first Pennsylvania refiner to offer highly refined motor oils good for 2,000 miles. Kendall simultaneously adopts the two finger logo to represent this achievement.

[dataway]

As a humorous aside to the thread.

I just changed the oil in my 2007 Suzuki ATV ... for the first time. I know, I know. It has 236 miles (about 236 hours) on it. Every time I checked the oil it looked so good I just left it alone, came off the dipstick still golden.

So I changed the oil, bought a jug of Mobil One and a Wix filter. It's a 400cc single cylinder, figured it held about 1.5 quarts ... no I didn't read the manual.

Turns out the freakin thing holds FOUR quarts of oil, and yes I should have used a larger drain pan.

Anyway ... that ten year old oil came out looking great, smelling great, magnetic plug only had the tiniest residue of metal powder. Also noticed the machine has a wonderful oil cooling system with thermostat and fan etc.

The machine is stored outside under a tarp when not in use in the summer (plenty of breathing room, tarp just covers the top), stored in an unheated shed in the winter. I was amazed what kind of condition it's in, no rust, no corrosion, no leaks.

I have done zero maintenance on this thing in ten years, I mean nothing, just added fuel preservative in the winters.

Not sure what the point of this post is .... except ... amazing they still make equipment for people like me that totally ignore basic maintenance. I do take care of all my other more expensive stuff though.

[Riku]

[QUOTE=MD79TA;5874620] ...I would like to know what oil everyone runs?
Hi,
Kendall GT-1 Competition 20W50.
This is very good oil with sufficient amount of ZDDP for protection of flat tappet cams.

https://s3.amazonaws.com/phillips66-...pdf?1477684110

This weight is perfect for my bearing clearances keeping oil pressure right in all temps / rpms. 20W50 was suggested by Jim Butler for my engine.
As for filtering I believe it´s not place to try to save. I´ve trusted and used K&N filters for years, they´re excellent products.
I use K&N PS-2003

https://www.knfilters.com/search/pro...x?prod=PS-2003

[Sirrotica]

FYI, the Kendall oil name was sold to Sunoco about 1997 and they had no interest in the refinery in Bradford PA owned by Witco which also made Amalie oil previously. Sunoco was after the name only and later sold it to Phillips/Conoco, who now sells their oil under the Kendall banner. The Kendall GT1 you buy currently is no longer made from PA grade crude. Not saying that there is anything wrong with what is labeled Kendall GT1 currently, just that it's actually closer to Phillips/Conoco Trop/Artic oil than the old GT1 oil.

Brad Penn is probably the closest relative to the old Kendall GT1 made formerly in Bradford PA. Myself, I would rather have PA grade crude in my oil than Texas grade crude, but oils made from strictly PA grade crude are tough to find anymore.

Pennzoil and Quaker State were formerly PA grade crude along with Wolfs Head and a few others. Most of these refineries have been shuttered in the last 20 or so years. Valvoline is PA grade crude and probably the last major refinery left in the area of PA crude oil fields. Even though Valvoline is in Ashland KY, I'd bet they are also blending Texas crude in at least some of their oils.

No matter what the base oil is made from the chemists and scientists have come along way in the last 20-25 years as have additive packages. The advent of synthetic oils have also been a major stride in motor oils over the years.

If you can use a filter system that keeps the oil analytically as clean as it was when it left the factory, instead of only filtering larger particulate out of it, you'll make a major dent in engine wear and extend longevity measurably.

The other avenue is to keep the factory filter system and keep changing oil very frequently, before solid particulate becomes concentrated, and starts the wear cycle. Myself I'd rather have an very efficient filter system, as opposed to partially filtered oil.

[TedRamAirII]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

From the Kendall site: About our history

1928
Kendall becomes the first Pennsylvania refiner to offer highly refined motor oils good for 2,000 miles. Kendall simultaneously adopts the two finger logo to represent this achievement.

Pretty strange coincidence that Kendall has 2 fingers up for 2K miles and the hand sign for K is the same! Hmmmmmmm. Don Garlits was sponsored by Kendall and flashed the sign with his hand a lot. ; )

[Riku]

Yes, I´m familiar with the history of Kendall brand. I have no clue where the base oil is coming to these red bottles, but the end product -this new GT-1 Competition 20W50- is good choice for our flat tappet high perf engines. With todays knowledge and progress on additive packages it might be better than the "old Kendall"?

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by Riku

Yes, I´m familiar with the history of Kendall brand. I have no clue where the base oil is coming to these red bottles, but the end product -this new GT-1 Competition 20W50- is good choice for our flat tappet high perf engines. With todays knowledge and progress on additive packages it might be better than the "old Kendall"?

I think oil is like any other branded product......People have a romantic attachment to certain brands and they will overlook newer products that may very well be better.

[MD79TA]

Originally Posted by 72LuxuryLeMansLa.

I think oil is like any other branded product......People have a romantic attachment to certain brands and they will overlook newer products that may very well be better.

Agree but you must use the correct oil for your motor, how you drive and the weather you drive in. I am not sure how many remember the law suit and class action ligation that took place when what was considered one of best if not the best oils on market failed many years ago. Quaker State they lost huge market share and never recovered. . Doug

[David Jones]

My opinion. Baldwin.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by MD79TA

Agree but you must use the correct oil for your motor, how you drive and the weather you drive in. I am not sure how many remember the law suit and class action ligation that took place when what was considered one of best if not the best oils on market failed many years ago. Quaker State they lost huge market share and never recovered. . Doug

Funny you should mention Quaker State...My dad drove a 3/4 ton GMC with a 350 hauling oil field equipment and got many miles out of them using Quaker State. Never had oil related issues because we changed the oil on schedule.

[TedRamAirII]

I use Kendall and Brad Penn. Kendall will even ship it to your door for free.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

This devolved into an oil debate but which oil FILTER IS THE QUESTION! I say Wix, Baldwin or whatever is third.

[TedRamAirII]

I use AC Delco PF24. I have used Fram, Baldwin, and Wix. Most all filter manufacturers make Good filters, and "Budget" filters. They make them to the customers spec (the name on the box) When it comes to my car, I don't have a budget. You get what you pay for.

[GRX]

Wix or NAPA gold here. Having a cutter, I can confirm they are exactly the same internally.

Second buying all filters (oil, fuel, air, etc...) in bulk from FleetFilter. Much cheaper than I can source them locally.

[dataway]

Wix and Napa Gold here also.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by GRX

Wix or NAPA gold here. Having a cutter, I can confirm they are exactly the same internally.

Second buying all filters (oil, fuel, air, etc...) in bulk from FleetFilter. Much cheaper than I can source them locally.

Only about half what they cost me locally. Thanks for the link!

[Ram Air IV Jack]

Originally Posted by TedRamAirII

DO NOT take any car to any Jiffy Lube, Quicky Lube or Franchise type Auto Repair Shop. Last week they were flipping burgers, this week they are draining the life blood of your car, and who knows what cheapeast bulk oil they are putting in. Find a good independant garage and have them do a oil change with oil and filter that YOU provide. I use AC PF24 filters, but Baldwin B39 is godd filter. As for Fram, who knows? They build OE filters for a LOT of cars, Ford, GM Subaru, Honda Etc, but it all boils down to Specs. The filter they build for the OE will be different than the filter on the parts store shelf. I'm sure EVERY Filter manufacturer has had failures, and always will pay for damages caused by their filters, of course they are not going to pay for a failure not caused by them. It all boils down to the filter media used, and a Anti Drainback valve material, THAT dictates cost. The difference in a $5 filter and a $15 filter is the media used. They can only fold paper/synthetic fibers so may ways. The best is to use a Bypass oil filter system. I'm not going to get into it, research it yourself. JMO ; )

When I read that someone here takes their GTO to a Jiffy Lube store for an oil change, I just cringed. Ted is right on here. A brief story to shed with you all.; We had a local Jiffy Lube store where a whole shift was fired because they manufactured an air cannon on their down time and were shooting store oil plugs and PCV's out if it. How they got caught was these objects were striking the windows of a nearby apartment building and breaking them. The police got involved and arrested a few of these so called "lube techs" and the Chicago regional cooperate office got involved. I was later told that the cooperate office was dealing with a high-end lawsuit in Chicago involving some inept technicians.

Apparently a person was driving a Mercedes and heard a noise under his hood. He drove into one of the Jiffy Lube stores to have it checked out. They found the problem which was minor and he drove off. What the driver didn't realize is a bozo under his car pulled the oil plug and allowed the oil to drain out thinking he was there for an oil change. The driver drove off and of course in a short time his motor was ruined. Thousands of dollars were in play in this lawsuit.

Moral of story, stay clear of quick change oil stores. They pay their help horribly, have a large turn over and many techs could have been flipping burgers just a short time ago.