[HWYSTR455]

On my LeMans, I have Moser axles, and the axle hub sticks out far enough to go thru the rotor completely. I have a 'Touring Brake Specialties' 'hybrid' kit, which uses the late 90s SS camaro calipers. Those were for a while hard to get, but now are being reproduced. Fronts are C5/C6.

I have the Right Stuff rear kit on the 442, and Dutchman axles. The hub was cut down by Dutchman for free. It too sticks out far enough to go completely thru the rotor.

Some who offer rear kits also offer rotors with the center cut so you don't need to mod the axles, but, you are stuck sourcing rotors that need to be cut.

Rotor thicknesses on the rear I have found push the wheel out @ 1/4" per side, depending on the rotor. (more with some kits). If you're getting a housing made, order it 1/2" shorter on each side to compensate.

You need an E-brake.

Drums center well on the studs, so you could cut the hub on the axles and still use drum brakes, until you upgrade.

Any decent brake upgrade uses larger than OE rotors, and all but maybe 2 kits require at min 16" wheel (Baer SS is one such kit that works with 15" wheels, but there is very little performance improvement). Since tire selection is poor for 16s, 17s is the next sensible option, but 18" these days is the 'norm'. Much better tire selection.

Disc calipers require a certain amount of fluid moved to work properly, so you need to change the master. And, of course, the combo valve too. Depending on your booster/mc combo currently, you may need to swap your booster too.

It's best to get a booster/master/valve 'kit', to avoid any confusing or mismatch. They are not expensive, and have had great luck with Pirate Jack. (Believe they are affiliated with Master Power Brakes).

Disc wheel studs are roughly 1/4" longer than drums, but depending on the rotors/kit, you may need longer ones. Make sure you measure so the lug nut doesn't bottom out before fully tightened, and has enough thread engaged.


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