[bill ryder]

I need help or opinions. Does it appear to be a restamp or not? If so, why would anyone restamp the year on the date code? It is a one year carb, correct? Just trying to cross my Ts and dot my Is before I leap. Looking for some help!
I am a 64-65 guy so not familiar with these.
Also posted in Judge only tech.

"Bill"!

[Formulabruce]

295 is the 295th day of 1969 IIRC. The 9 does look a little sketch, but I have seen this before, could be they used a brand new "6" instead.
If complete with correct top middle and base, its a $ 4 digit carb..

[bill ryder]

Julian date is Oct.22, 1969, early production.
THANK YOU so much for your response on a holiday!!!
What exactly do I need to look for on the air horn, body and base plate?

I will attach more pictures.

THANKS

bill

[bill ryder]

More pics

[johnta1]

Pic of underneath/throttle plates?

Seems that the throttle arm should be bolted on, though?
(been a long time since I saw one in person)

[Kenth]

Bowl seems correct, need to see the fine stamped number beneith fuel inlet. 1969 OR 1970 airhorn w/pull-over enrichment system not used on RamAir Qjets, wrong choke pull-off, wrong fast idle cam, vacuum tube added on throttle plate passenger side OR a genuine 1968 throttle plate.
Typical "Frankencarb".

[bill ryder]

More pictures coming!

"Bill"!

[Formulabruce]

Could be a WT carb, with 68 base. Doesn't have to be ram air

[Norwood]

The 268 carb on
my 68 GTO had that same choke assembly

[Kenth]

Originally Posted by Formulabruce

Could be a WT carb, with 68 base. Doesn't have to be ram air

1970 WT Qjet is 7040263.
Float bowl on this is 1970 RamAir M/T 7040273 with lots of mismatching parts on it.

[bill ryder]

Hopefully, pictures requested! I see a 19 or a 61 on the inlet boss. Guess it is a 19. Please LMK. Thanks!

"Bill"!

[Kenth]

19 is correct. Need to see this number inside the yellow marking.
Throttle plate looks ok, need to check the size of off-idle slots above the idle needle holes.

[bill ryder]

Thanks Kenth. I don't exactly understand the last request, "need to check the size of off-idle slots above the idle needle holes". Please explain a little more or show an example.

bill

[Kenth]

The off-idle ports/slots on a RamAir Qjet throttle plate are shorter than on a non-RamAir Qjet.
Shorter off-idle slots above the throttle blades at idle speeds equals richer idle mixture.

Did you check the fine stamped number within the yellow ring?

[bill ryder]

More info to come. Thanks

"Bill"!

[bill ryder]

Kenth, here are the pictures you requested. Thank you!!!

bill

[Kenth]

Bill, the off-idle ports on your throttle plate has the correct size for a 1970 RA unit.
So, you have the correct float bowl and throttle plate, unfortunately with an added side vacuum port and the airhorn, choke pull-off and fast idle cam are wrong for this carb.

[bill ryder]

THANKS Kenth. Appreciate your time!!!! You know of any restorers that could, would restore this correctly?

"Bill"!

[bill ryder]

Guess I need to forget this one!!! Thanks to ALL.

"Bill"!

[unruhjonny]

I will do a late chime in, and hopefully it doesn't annoy.

I am guessing that the prime examples of unmodified carbs of this number, or even number of this application which haven't been through a rebuilder that possibly mismatched parts, are becoming fewer by the day.

The key component in my books is the fuel bowl;
If you are chasing a specific application number, and one which has legitimate pedigree, this is going to be your start point.

After that, a suitable throttle body or suitable airhorn would be able to be found.

One of the things going for anyone chasing one of these applications is that only the carter manufactured units had the airhorn casting number visible from the top - the rochester ones had the number cast on the bottom - so you cannot see the casting number without taking the carb in question apart.

The throttle body is a similar deal, the telltale signs of a carter vs rochester casting are quickly apparent.

If the price is right for you, and it can be made to function properly, then there is no reason in my opinion to discount it purely because everything isn't 100% correct.

I would love to have one of these for my 1970 YZ engine - but for now, and for my pocket book, a '9270 SR unit that might be classified as having been through a rebuilder is going to suffice.