[PAUL K]

Wow very nice!

[Nacs Fab]

Minor update, Charge Pipe done and Front cover AN fittings installed and it is painted. I am replacing my new Rollmaster Chain, because I found a couple links that were not to my liking, I think they were damaged in the install.



It should be here in a day or so, then I get it totally buttoned up.

I am planning on welding that spacer to the Carb Hat, its needed to straighten out the path, not only for the inlet of the hat, but just to get a straight transition through the carb. Still unsure if Ill keep that 2" spacer under the carb, its getting really tall and i don't want it sticking through a 6" cowl!

I also ordered a 3" 90 aluminum so I can mount a filter on the Supercharger. Currently not enough room to clear the Valvecover. Valvecover is also holding up the rotation of the Torqstorm housing, so that is why the charge pipe has to be so high.

[Dragncar]

I like those valve covers. Where did you get them ? $ ?

[Nacs Fab]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

I like those valve covers. Where did you get them ? $ ?

Butler Performance and they were pricey at $740

[Nacs Fab]

Small Update - These "Custom" Builds take a lot of time dealing with minor fitment issues.

After a trial fit of my Innovators West Balancer, I found I need to trim down some hardware. Since I have to install their Mag Pickup bracket over the top of my Butler engine plate, it pushes it out around 1/16" of an inch more than they initially anticipate the bracket being mounted. Actually it pushed it out the thickness of the front plate, which is 3/16", but IW has aluminum spacers that are 1/8" thick that are meant to install between their bracket and your timing cover. FYI - using this mag trigger bracket and front plate, you will need to grind off some of the back of the bracket where the front plate is press-braked to clear the water inlets.



What they have is a button head bolt that is meant to mount in the hole that has a machined step, to clear the balancer. Mine hits enough that the button head would be trimmed more than I like, so I bought some stainless 3" long 3/8"-18 Countersunk Socket Head bolts. I also ordered an 82° countersink bit for aluminum. Ill remove that bracket and countersink the hole and it should clear. Ill also have to grind the nubs off the timing cover just a bit more to clear it, but ill do that in place and clean it up. The Magnet will sit forward about 1/16" from its normal spot, but I believe the pickup will still read the source, if not Ill have to machine the bracket slightly - anyone have experience with this?

TorqStorm even sends a nice Billet engraved Fuel Pump Block off.



I had a buddy burn some billet AN Fittings into the timing cover as well.



I went with 12an for the heater core return - the heater core will get some an adapters and I plan on plumbing up the heater core lines just like factory but in black 12AN PTFE Hose. Suction hose will be 20AN from the Rad and then I'm plumbing 16AN return from Thermostat Housing to the Top Rad inlet.

I bought a triple pass aluminum radiator from Summit in the biggest physical size I could get, since Ill use a Chromoly radiator support, Ill have room to mount it. I also have a Derale dual 12" fan shroud with 4000 CFM Fans. Car will also run E85 so hope it cools. One thing I'm going to do and I'm dreading it... I'm going to install all my AN Fittings with caps, along with a pressure gauge and then pressurize the block to make sure there's no internal leakage where my Machinist got into the water jackets, gaining clearance for the Rods. If I hear leakage inside, Ill have to epoxy the water jackets or something before I go any further.

[GOAT8U2]

It might be easiest to trim that 1/16 off the Hall sensor L bracket to bring it in closer. We did the opposite when making my 12-1, we added L base material to push out the sensor.

Did you need talk with Torqstorm about the crank pulley being pushed out and lining up with their SC pulley?

[Nacs Fab]

Originally Posted by GOAT8U2

It might be easiest to trim that 1/16 off the Hall sensor L bracket to bring it in closer. We did the opposite when making my 12-1, we added L base material to push out the sensor.

Did you need talk with Torqstorm about the crank pulley being pushed out and lining up with their SC pulley?

I actually measured the sensor to mounting surface on my hub and its perfectly centered over the magnets, by luck I guess.

Supercharger Pulley also lines up perfectly. Should have my countersink bit tonight so I can verify all of this, I just checked these two items last night by tape measure and straight edge. This is why I went with the Innovators West damper: It allows the use of Crank Trigger and is same dimension as factory damper, so it doesn't push pulleys out any. It is also 4 Bolt like factory pulleys and same as the Supercharger Pulley. Lastly, the Tin Indian mandrel has 4-Bolt pattern too so that is what I'm driving my fuel pump with. Ordered their Gilmer belt pulley and after I make some bracketry for the fuel pump to mount to my front plate, it should work good as well.

I'll grab photos of the whole thing mocked up tonight, I will also install Alternator and belt driven pump will need some fabrication to make it work. I bought a Tin Indian Alternator bracket and I'm hopeful that it places the alignment of the V-Belt with the inner V-Belt groove (inboard of their 8 rib supercharger belt) that Torqstorm provides with their pulley.

Like with everything, one slight deviation from factory sure messes things up. Now Ill have to modify my Front Plate to clear the 20AN fitting. Should have went 16AN maybe?

[GOAT8U2]

Noticed no breathers, you running a pulley driven vacuum pump or going electric pump on PCV out?

I'm eventually going Star Machine EVP, 12v on the catch can that's connected to my Pcv out. Using VC breathers for only cruise evacuation and pump at 1psi on.

[Nacs Fab]

Originally Posted by GOAT8U2

Noticed no breathers, you running a pulley driven vacuum pump or going electric pump on PCV out?

I'm eventually going Star Machine EVP, 12v on the catch can that's connected to my Pcv out. Using VC breathers for only cruise evacuation and pump at 1psi on.

I'm using a 12AN dual breather Tank from Motion Raceworks and each valve cover will have a 12AN outlet to the tank. I will drill in the second AN Breather myself using a 12AN Moroso valvecover breather fitting. Torqstorm doesnt recommend the use of a Vacuum pump. Do you see any issues with this?

I took some photos of the Crank Pulley and the alignment of the TorqueStorm pulleys. I found out I need a small shim for the Mandrel to use their gilmer pulley, otherwise the shims behind it will freely move - looks like something around .100" should work. The Fuel Pump should mount on the right in the photo and ill build the spacers, then drill/tap the front plate for the bolts and fab a tensioner setup. I need to look through my boxes of parts and find the alternator bracket, hopefully it lines up with one of the grooves provided for a V-Belt. The TorqStorm pulley works perfectly with the Innovators West Balancer.





Take a look at the misalignment of the Mag Pickup, its probably less than .125", will I need to modify it so the center of the sensor is exactly over the magnet? It looks like the magnet centerline would line up with the front face of the Damper.

[GOAT8U2]

That Alignment is what I meant by Hall sensor L bracket and your engine plate pushing all that out 3/16 etc.

Because the IW bracket to block is flat, it might be easier to trim the 3/16 (whatever size engine plate is) off that vs the L bracket since it looks like the L is grooved like how we did mine.

I'm using an electric vacuum pump, which is the oddball in the world of vacuum pumps since most people assume it's pulley driven, which is what I bet Chris @ Torqstorm is thinking.

I'm gonna pull a good 10" of vacuum on the crankcase through the PCV hole and that will definitely help a Pontiac from blowing out the rear main seal under boost and making some extra power, 2%, while you're at it.

[Nacs Fab]

Innovators sells a blank sensor mount that I can buy, then drill and tap it. Ill try to fire the engine as is, and see if it works. Is there any way to test this prior?

[GOAT8U2]

Get your gap correct and it might not be an issue if it's not 100% centered.

You can do a trigger log and pull the fuel pump fuse etc then see what the trigger signals looks like I guess.

[Nacs Fab]

Back on the project! I removed all of the factory front suspension besides the lower control arms - leaving them in place to help hold the crossmembers in line when cutting/fabbing the Rack mounts and so on. Plan is to install my Summit racing Chinese control arms with updated Moog Lower ball joints and QA1 1" longer high clearance Upper Ball Joints. I have Afco double adjustable coilovers for the front and Smith Racecraft pinto rack, including their steering shaft kit and shaft pivot mount. I chose S&W Racecars for their rack mount because it appears to have enough clearance for my Stefs Pan. Plan is to be able to remove the oil pan on Drag N Drives if needed - not that I would ever want to mess with getting that pan installed in the car! Geez these pans do not fit very good.



I got the hood out of the way and ended up removing inner fenders, AC Box, Master Cyl in preparation of new work. Also removed the Rad Support too as I have a chromoly tube support ill install. I foam cover all of my surfaces, it makes it a pain to work on but don't want to destroy the paint leaning over it all winter.



I ordered some heat shrink, flame resistant wire loom, ill address that before final drop in of engine, going to hide all of the wiring too if I can. With low mount alternator, ill go below the header and hit it with wiring and the engine shouldn't be too wiring intensive with MSD wiring to the Distributor and crank trigger but I can keep it clean I think.

I leveled the front stub to 0.00 degree accuracy and measured up the centerline of the frame. I marked rear end centerline as well and strung a line so that I could accurately mark crossmembers for cutting. This pic is what their kit instructions show the finished product will look like, however I'm not peeling off the upper layer of the rear crossmember. I'll leave it in place and drill through it for the steering shaft travel. I think it will end up cleaner. My steering shaft has 3 knuckles and a brace that bolts into the factory steering box bolt holes, this gets it out of the way for header clearance hopefully. This part wasn't mocked up on the old stub, so I may be modifying header on the DS too.



Previously, I had planned on fabbing my own front stub suspension mounts and cut up the 68 subframe I had from that project. We sold our old house and moved last spring, plus had to build a garage at the new (Old built 1902) house so this whole plan changed. In fact, i had purchased a chromoly front stub for the car but since offloaded it due to lack of interest in removing the front of the car to further back peddle the project. The previous mock up did help build the header on the passenger side to clear the kickout on the pan and in doing so, I had one tube that goes outboard of the frame. This is why ill remove the inner fenders for now and may eventually buy carbon fiber and cut around the tube as needed. Just wanted it cleaner for now.



Headers are some older Mad Dog 2-1/8" primary with slip-on collectors. They will get high temp paint and header wrap.



I didn't get pics, but I already cut the front crossmember out and will start clean up and tack in the tube that the rack mounts to, then plan on cutting out the rear crossmember as well. I'm going to bolt in the trans crossmember to keep everything where it needs to be, as well as the stub is still mounted to the body and front bumper keeps it all straight as it should be. Plus welding in the front crossmember will happen before cutting out the second one, per the S&W instructions. My hope is to this week keep you updated with progress as I want the Engine down in the car by Sunday!

[Nacs Fab]

Putting a solid effort in this week and pushing to get the engine in the car.

I bought a kit from S&W Racecars that had all of the brackets and tubing to clearance the crossmember how I wanted it, but I deviated from their plan and left the upper rear crossmember cover intact. I will clearance for the steering shaft through the crossmember as needed.





Here is the fully welded in crossmember, now ill install the rack and report back. By the next update, I hope to have the rack, suspension and all steering completed and cycled to check bump steer.

[Dragncar]

Nice work Nick.
My Mad Dog headers rear tube wrap around the frame like that. I did not know it when I bought them, fitting each side took most of a day.
What are you planning for hood clearance issues ? Not sure I would want to cut a nice hood like yours.

[Nacs Fab]

I'm actually going to remove that 2" spacer above the carb and I am going with a shorter hat that came with the torqstorm. If it doesn't clear, I have a nice Fiberglass TA hood that I'll install a cowl on and go that route, and Ill save the 400 hood for a wall hanger.

Here's a rendering of the TA Hood mods. I like it because Ill be able to keep underhood temps down too.



Ill epoxy it black for now until I can get it into the body shop for paint.

[Nacs Fab]

Here is a better photo of how the hood will look, love this car.

[PAUL K]

Looks great!

[JLMounce]

Looking great! Your car really makes me consider putting the born with Limelight Green back on my car.

[Nacs Fab]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

Looking great! Your car really makes me consider putting the born with Limelight Green back on my car.

Honestly when I first found my car, I knew it was rust free and newly painted and i wasn't absolutely in love with it. I bought it and enjoyed driving it to shows and so on with its 500 HP 383 Small Block Chevy with AC and everything! After taking it to several car shows, entering the "Camaro" Class I won some trophies. One guy who was the judge told me he Loved the car because it wasn't Blue or RED CAMARO it was extremely unique. Its then that I really appreciated its color and absolutely love it!

I fully had intensions of pulling the SBC when I bought it. My wife never waivered either, she understands that I want it all Pontiac. She and many of my friends thinks I'm crazy for going this deep into a nice driver, but I never let anyone or fear hold me back.