[gtorich]

Been cleaning up my cover now, not sure i want to use it............was thinking of getting a new one and using the waterneck from KRE to use on a 66 tripower manifold without the dimple in the timing cover.

Any issues you guys running into with the aftermarket timing covers

Rich

[grivera]

I have a reproduction on the bird and a KRE on the 66 - both are great

[78w72]

Whats wrong with the current cover? Unless its damaged or has heavy corrosion pitting, save some $$ and clean it up to reuse it. Probably doesnt need to be glass beaded either, just clean/degrease/scuff it up to repaint. Can also use normal blaster media at low psi further away without any problems too, new shop should have a blaster.

[gtorich]

Originally Posted by 78w72

Whats wrong with the current cover? Unless its damaged or has heavy corrosion pitting, save some $$ and clean it up to reuse it. Probably doesnt need to be glass beaded either, just clean/degrease/scuff it up to repaint. Can also use normal blaster media at low psi further away without any problems too, new shop should have a blaster.

Hey Scott, happy thanksgiving, im not sure of the condition of this one, i have a small chip on bottom, dont think thats any problem, have some heli-coils in there also, getting the paint off seems to be the biggest problem so far.

What do you think, roll the dice and use it

Rich

[67Lemons]

I bought one of these blast guns to use with my compressor and it’s pretty effective. You can use baking soda with aluminum, it takes a while but it will clean paint off of the surface without damaging it, you can also use sand or glass with it.

https://www.harborfreight.com/18-oz-...kit-59490.html

[grivera]

That cover appears to be in great shape. And you don’t necessarily need to remove all the paint - just make sure it’s smooth and doesn’t flake off, then scuff and shoot.

[gtorich]

Originally Posted by grivera

That cover appears to be in great shape. And you don’t necessarily need to remove all the paint - just make sure it’s smooth and doesn’t flake off, then scuff and shoot.

I hear ya Will, ive been cleaning it up today, looking pretty good, think i will need a few coats to cover up some of the scratches......i might have went a little cave man on the sanding. Seeing im down to mostly bare alum, does it pay to put on a self etch primer, or just go primer than the pretty metallic blue stuff.

Thanks for the info guys

Rich

[grivera]

I use self etching primer any time I get down to metal

[gtorich]

Originally Posted by grivera

I use self etching primer any time I get down to metal

Hey, thanks for that info Will, just wanted to double check with you, as of right now i dont have all the paint off, but most of it.

After cleaning it up some, i noticed a few issues, on these pics if you enlarge them by the part number in front, i can catch my finger nail in one spot, the rest of the parting line is smooth, nothing on the backside.

Also where the gasket goes in looks a little shakey , front and back side of that.

Im gonna go and paint it though and see how it looks, hopefully the paint covers the scratches.

Still up in the air on this deal, new one is $130-150, waterneck from kre $65 for the tripower neck.

Rich

[gtorich]

No idea, why the pics are sideways again..............hope everyone has a great thanksgiving

Rich

[b-man]

Try cropping your photos slightly before downloading, that should stop them from getting sideways.

If you’re not happy with the deeper scratches keep sanding with finer grit paper until they’re gone. Painting over deep scratches won’t hide them much if at all.

Happy Thanksgiving.

[gtorich]

Thants Bart, i will try that

Was curious about that line i had going thru the piece by the part number, looked at quite a few on the web, cant find one with that line, hoping that isnt a crack.

[Mr Twister]

I got an Allstar one off Amazon and it worked great.

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by gtorich

Thants Bart, i will try that

Was curious about that line i had going thru the piece by the part number, looked at quite a few on the web, cant find one with that line, hoping that isnt a crack.

That "crack" looks like a die cast molding line. I say this because it continues on the other side of the front seal hole. If it was a real crack, it should have stopped at the seal hole. A crack shouldn't continue on the other side of a hole.

[grivera]

Definitely looks like a parting line vs a crack. Keep in mind, once installed and accessories in place, it will be hard to see any blemishes. The gasket surfaces are where you want to concentrate your efforts. If you have any deep divers, mix up some JB weld, fill and same flat.

[HWYSTR455]

Butler sells timing covers for $150.

Once you have a new one, you probably won't ever need another. Nice when they are 'true', less chance of leaks.

I would chase all the threads before installing it, and use anti-seize, on the pump plate insert bodies & the long bolts that go to the block where water flows. You will be glad you did the next time you remove it.

Coat the entire length of those bolts.


.

[gtorich]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

That "crack" looks like a die cast molding line. I say this because it continues on the other side of the front seal hole. If it was a real crack, it should have stopped at the seal hole. A crack shouldn't continue on the other side of a hole.

Mike, thats interesting, i was thinking some kind of parting line, but when i looked at all the others on ebay, FB...........they didnt have that line, most of them said DieCast in them...............on mine just says 482883 and the number 71 in a circle.

Will, you are right, once everything is on you cant see much anyways, problem with this piece is if something goes wrong, its a pita to take everything apart again.

Never had a leak there, so just overthinking stuff as usual

Rich

[78w72]

Originally Posted by gtorich

Hey Scott, happy thanksgiving, im not sure of the condition of this one, i have a small chip on bottom, dont think thats any problem, have some heli-coils in there also, getting the paint off seems to be the biggest problem so far.

What do you think, roll the dice and use it

Rich

Thanks, Hope you had a good T-day too!

That cover looks to be in pretty good shape compared to some others Ive seen... Helicoils arent a problem, actually stronger than the original aluminum threads. The paint should come off with a blaster or even a chemical stripper at home... or if its still in good shape and mot flaking, scuff it up & paint over it. I would clean it up and reuse it for sure.

The gasket surface doesnt look too bad, have seen a lot worse from corrosion and they seal up fine when using a thin bead or a good RTV, can also fill any pits with JB weld as mentioned but that doesnt look bad at all, RTV with the gaskets should be fine, (thin bead smoothed with your finger on both sides of gasket)