[hojs69]

Of the three main options I see out there, any of them "ok" to use, or is it best to pass on all of them?

[70GS455]

I have used the Spraymax once and it did what I needed. No issues

[RocktimusPryme]

Ive not used the Epoxy, but I used Eastwoods 2K Urethane in a rattle can once. Its def better than 1k rattle can primers Ive used.

I generally don't mind spray can paint, but I loathe normal 1k rattle can primer.

[VCho455]

What are you planning on it for?

[Shiny]

I used SprayMax on my FRP nose, but only because it was easy to buy locally. Application, coverage, and curing all worked well. There is no risk for corrosion with the FRP and I haven't top-coated it, but it has been on the part for over a year without any hint of adhesion loss.

But I'd also like to hear comparisons with the Eastwood and U-Pol/Raptor brands.

Spraymax lays fairly smooth and has a long "pot life" in the can. I am about to use it again on bare metal.

Would be great to hear if any of these brands have compatibility issues with filler or high-build primers.

The 2K aerosol packaging is a big money and time saver for me, as I don't have a great setup nor facility for a gun.

[Beers]

I’ve also used Eastwood’s 2K rattle can paint, on a convertible top frame for a Corvair. Thought it went on really well and dried hard. It was the one where you push the button on the bottom of the can to mix the material and then you have ~48 hrs to use the can. Probably as close to using a gun as you can get from a rattle can as far as finished product.

[hojs69]

These are the three I was referring to originally.

1. SprayMax: https://www.amazon.com/SprayMax-Acti.../dp/B07CXPQ814

2. Eastwood: https://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Aero...0D6X773DW?th=1

3. Car Rep: https://www.amazon.com/Car-Rep%C2%AE...08WPSTXGL?th=1

CarRep is the only one where you do not have to puncture an inner bladder. Supposedly, greater shelf-life.

The plan was to use these on body metal touch-up areas.

[Shiny]

Hadn't seen the Car Rep product, thanks.

Very great idea if it works as well as a liquid/liquid mix formula. Sounds like a "moisture cure" technology for epoxy??

The unlimited "pot life" is a huge advantage over the "puncture" types for occasional or spread-out small repairs.

Anyone use this?

[Shiny]

I clicked a little and while I couldn't find any specific tests or technical info on the product, it seems the moisture-cured systems may have some tradeoffs. Specifically, they may not be as highly crosslinked as the more typical 2-liquid systems and possibly less tolerant of marginal surface prep. Obviously, the cure time of the Car Rep may vary with RH, so cure time may not be as predictable.

Also, reading the feedback on Amazon suggests the material may cure in the tube or nozzle. Just my guess on the reason, but lots of feedback about clogging and spraying poorly. There is also at least one comment about it not curing in 4 days... maybe a dry climate?

For me, I'm sticking with the "traditional" chemistry but I'd love to hear real-world experience with the moisture-cured aerosol like Car Rep from those who can objectively compare. It is a great idea if it delivers equivalent adhesion, rust protection, and compatibility with fillers and other topcoats.

[Spicewood1]

Why not mix and use the proper materials? SPI epoxy is very affordable, why risk using sketchy stuff

[tj.brewster]

Sprayed some Car-Rep on some SMC panels on my 99 TA. Attempted to sand a week later and all It did was ball up and clog my 3m paper. Waited another 2 weeks and it sanded better but still clogged the paper. Wet sanding was better but not good. Y'all might be on to something regarding cure time and humidity. I'm in southern AZ and its pretty dry here. Just my .02.

TJ

[HWYSTR455]

I've used U-POL, SEM, and SPI before, I usually just grab whatever the body supply place had on hand. Think I've used Eastwood too.

Never had any problem with any of those, just don't use hardware store stuff.



.

[Shiny]

Originally Posted by tj.brewster

Sprayed some Car-Rep on some SMC panels on my 99 TA. Attempted to sand a week later and all It did was ball up and clog my 3m paper. Waited another 2 weeks and it sanded better but still clogged the paper. Wet sanding was better but not good. Y'all might be on to something regarding cure time and humidity. I'm in southern AZ and its pretty dry here. Just my .02.

TJ

I'm sorry you had this happen but appreciate the info.

Noted!

It's disappointing, given the potential cost savings and convenience.

I went to the trouble of mixing, masking, spraying, and clean-up with both Summit and SPI epoxies for the few sheet metal panels I have primed but I find it a lot of work for a small job.

The low cost and convenience of an aerosol for small jobs is obvious and has motivated me to use the SprayMax epoxy a few times. It always hardens and covers but tends to go on "dry" and doesn't level as well as SPI. It definitely doesn't sand as well.

When I use only a small portion of a SprayMax can and have to throw the rest away, it's painful for my wallet.

I have a couple brackets I need to prime and am going to try spraying SPI with a Preval system to avoid 20 minutes and a bunch of solvent to clean the spray gun. All I need is warm day!

Mike

[mysticmissle]

Originally Posted by Spicewood1

Why not mix and use the proper materials? SPI epoxy is very affordable, why risk using sketchy stuff

where is the best place to buy the SPI stuff? direct from them or do thye sell at local paint supply, in which case im not sure whats local, lol thank you

[rwfisher]

Originally Posted by mysticmissle

where is the best place to buy the SPI stuff? direct from them or do thye sell at local paint supply, in which case im not sure whats local, lol thank you

Purchase right from them. There is a wealth of support on the other end of the phone and they can answer any questions you can come up with…

[hojs69]

I experimented with the Car-Rep on the lowermost rear back filler panel (under bumper) and all seemed normal.

Oregon here, wet / humid and chilly, but in a heated Shop when needed.