[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by KGTO

Not sure why I'm not getting notifications... :/

Just ordered the pan today, will report on fit .

Dragncar- where did you get the scraper?

https://crank-scrapers.com/Pontiac.html

I got the Teflon version. Its a little expensive for a scrapper. Takes a afternoon to fit it. But I/J says a regular scrapper gets you 1% more HP. The Teflon version gets you 2-3%. If true I think its more than worth it.
It can get very close to your crank/ rods. Actually touch them and nothing bad happens.

[slowbird]

Originally Posted by Nacs Fab

The 1240 is squared off where it would hit most factory crossmembers, the 1730 is clearanced by having tapered front portion of the pan for fitting most Factory crossmembers.

I would honestly say the 1240 is more of a Chassis Car pan than the 1730, which was probably developed for more Super Stock racing.

1730:



1240:

Thank you! What headers fit those pans? With the kick outs I'm guessing custom headers?

[KGTO]

Stan suggested the 1095E for me, said it fit the 67 A body.

[Dragncar]

I had header and starter issues with mine. Bought one of those MSD starters on sale, would not fit. Summit one did.
My Mad Dog 4 piece headers had a issue with one tube on kickout side. Mad Dog moved it over as much as they could but I had to partially flatten that tube.
I want to say my Hookers would fit. But I added a dip stick bung that will only work with my Mad Dogs. Hits the Hookers but they would work if it was not there.

[slowbird]

Originally Posted by KGTO

Stan suggested the 1095E for me, said it fit the 67 A body.

How did it fit?

[Nacs Fab]

Originally Posted by slowbird

Thank you! What headers fit those pans? With the kick outs I'm guessing custom headers?

I have Mad Dog Headers for a 1st Gen F-Body and I modified tubes for #4 and #8. Their F-Body header has 2 center tubes on one flange and each outer tube on its own flange.

I removed #4 & #8 tubes from their mounting flange and bolted the flanges to the heads, with #2 and #6 tubes still in place. I basically took the Slip on Collector and moved it over towards the outside of the frame on tubes 2&6 (one whole set of tubes) if you know what I mean..., Then I rebuilt tubes #4 and #8 cylinders as shown:



My mockup had an engine "stand" that put me at my desired Crank CL off "ground" and I made it have the kickout in the stand so i knew how far away to be from the oil pan.

[KGTO]

Originally Posted by slowbird

How did it fit?

I just ordered it so it'll be a while.

[jm455ho]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

https://crank-scrapers.com/Pontiac.html

I got the Teflon version. Its a little expensive for a scrapper. Takes a afternoon to fit it. But I/J says a regular scrapper gets you 1% more HP. The Teflon version gets you 2-3%. If true I think its more than worth it.
It can get very close to your crank/ rods. Actually touch them and nothing bad happens.

How long have you been using the scraper? Any issues?

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by jm455ho

How long have you been using the scraper? Any issues?

Engine had been together for about 3 years I think. Zero issues with engine in any way.
The engine just started to run like it was supposed to at the end of last season.
Last pass when I hit 2nd engine hit the rev limiter. Might have rolled my sprag.
Drove it on the trailer fine though. Have not been back in it.

[KGTO]

Update on this pan. I had set the block and pan in the car to check the centerlink clearance. It was close, but not touching. What I had thought to do, but didn't, was to check side to side clearance when the centerlink moves with the linkage. Anyhow, motor assembled, in the car now and the center link has dented both sides of the 1095E pan. Called Stef's and spoke with Stan, sent pics too. He said this is the correct pan for my car, and is speaking with the owner about what to do.

[Region Warrior]

Not a fan of straight wall front pans straigh walls to sump vs rounded do to how oil flows under acceleration.
Guess fine with crazy expensive pans could fab nearly just as good with deep sump moroso in garage.
Kick out ok i guess.
Why not just increase oil volume with 12n lines to double oil filters plus and accumulator.

Still learning after no bearing failure only 6-65k rpms since started in 70s.

[Skip Fix]

Mt Stef's 409 pan the bolt holes did not line up-and they even said they had a 409 block to use when they built it! Sent it back and they redid it.

[KGTO]

Here are a couple pics. Stan said he's talking to the owner to see what to do as it shouldn't be an issue. Im not sure how my linkage could be any different.

[Elarson]

Originally Posted by KGTO

Im not sure how my linkage could be any different.

This comment may or may not apply to your situation, but it's a good "buyer beware". I bought a replacement center link from NAPA (offshore manufacturer) and it rubbed on the frame crossmember. I took it back off and compared with the original one and sure enough, there were subtle differences in how it was shaped.

I bought a replacement one from a USA manufacturer (at almost 3x the price) and it fit perfectly.

So there could be differences in your center link vs. the one that Stef's used for a mock-up.

Eric

[KGTO]

I did wonder that too, but I replaced it all with Moog parts as I think they are still US made? I guess that's the only other issue it could be but I thought I compared the two.

[KGTO]

So we checked 3 centerlinks, my Moog, a new Proforged and a used GM. All were exactly the same. Interesting though FWIW, the Proforged comes already ground down on the top for added clearance.

Still waiting on Stefs response

[Nacs Fab]

Following up so that hopefully you Stefs owners will not have the same issue I am having. Since I clearance the pan for the Titan Pump, it makes it a little difficult to install properly at the rear pan gasket that is over the rear main. I made the mistake of RTV gluing the 1-Piece BOP gasket to the Pan itself, then installing that assembly (without RTV) to the block. I was thinking of removal of the pan later so I did not glue it to the block.

I think the proper way to install that 1-Piece gasket is to trim the tangs from the rear main cap portion (meant for steel pan) and glue it to the BLOCK first; let it cure overnight, then RTV the pan to the gasket and torque down. Anyone have any input on this? My rear pan gasket broke during installation at one corner and i fixed it, but I believe the whole rear semi-circle gasket has pushed out of the groove and now compromised. Its pretty evident by when I jacked the front of the car up oil came rolling out of the back of the pan onto the floor!

Now I get to pull this mess apart in the car!

[Skip Fix]

Just noticed the comment about the MSD starter. It id similar to the old McLeod. I bought one on clearance also. You can clock it closer to the block but then on a stock type pan rail the lip has to be trimmed to fit it. McLeod you have the drill and cut a recess for the bolt to reclock it.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by Nacs Fab

Following up so that hopefully you Stefs owners will not have the same issue I am having. Since I clearance the pan for the Titan Pump, it makes it a little difficult to install properly at the rear pan gasket that is over the rear main. I made the mistake of RTV gluing the 1-Piece BOP gasket to the Pan itself, then installing that assembly (without RTV) to the block. I was thinking of removal of the pan later so I did not glue it to the block.

I think the proper way to install that 1-Piece gasket is to trim the tangs from the rear main cap portion (meant for steel pan) and glue it to the BLOCK first; let it cure overnight, then RTV the pan to the gasket and torque down. Anyone have any input on this? My rear pan gasket broke during installation at one corner and i fixed it, but I believe the whole rear semi-circle gasket has pushed out of the groove and now compromised. Its pretty evident by when I jacked the front of the car up oil came rolling out of the back of the pan onto the floor!

Now I get to pull this mess apart in the car!

My Steffs has no pan gasket except for 2 of the cork strips you get with the Fel Pro set laid side by side on the rear cap. They were glued to the cap with the yellow weatherstrip stuff and let dry over night. Layer of Ultra Grey on top of the cork and no gasket and thicker layer and the block and front timing cover.
And I also put a very thin layer on the pan itself. So I have RTV laying down on RTV vs dry metal to RTV.
No leaks.

[Nacs Fab]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

My Steffs has no pan gasket except for 2 of the cork strips you get with the Fel Pro set laid side by side on the rear cap. They were glued to the cap with the yellow weatherstrip stuff and let dry over night. Layer of Ultra Grey on top of the cork and no gasket and thicker layer and the block and front timing cover.
And I also put a very thin layer on the pan itself. So I have RTV laying down on RTV vs dry metal to RTV.
No leaks.

Thank you, ill give that a try. I actually have some 3M weatherstrip adhesive and its bad ass stuff! Since ill be doing mine in the car, Ill use a short strip of that plumbers strap like someone posted on Faceboook a while back, to hold his cork gaskets in place while it cures, using the 2 pan bolts in that area to keep the shape of the main cap.

Thanks Man!