[HWYSTR455]

Issue with using a cutoff wheel is it's tough to get a square cut, making it difficult to slip anything on/in it.

If you use exhaust clamps, you may not 'bite' the tube for a good seal, either.


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[Shiny]

I started with the sawzall and didn't think it would go well. Cutoff wheel could work but don't feel safe on my back throwing sparks around the gas tank.

I rented the chain type from AutoZone yesterday. Looks new so I'm hopeful.

Will find out later today with any luck.

If it craps out, there are options on eBay for other styles but for this small job, I like free.

Thanks to all for the ideas and experience.

[Shiny]

The offending things are off. They were almost 4" diameter... somebody wanted to make a statement with nothing to back it up?

The chain tool worked but I'm glad I didn't buy one. Way more effort than it should take and the size increments were a pain. When I ran out of travel and re-set to the next link, the arms were open too far to apply pressure. Not the worst, just expect the others would be easier.

These:

Originally Posted by MatthewKlein

.... Its a nice forearm workout

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

...and then you will be cussin'.

No biggy but if I have to do more of this, I'll try one of the Lisle type like Shurkey shared. They are easy to find on eBay.

Now I need to find out if I can relocate the pipes before deciding what to bolt on.

Mike

[HWYSTR455]

Tailpipes look like they are pointing at an angle downward, not sure you will be able to adjust them much, if at all.

You can probably get them a little higher, and then use a generic turn-down. You can't put a tip on and make it stay 'angled'.

I do all my exhausts on jack stands laying on my back, Pypes kits for years. I've tried all the cutters, and although the Lisle ones are 'better', but they flex if you tighten them down too hard. And same thing with once the blades start going, you will be 'cussin'.

I've found the ratcheting ones are the best, and worth it if you do a number of exhaust work over time.

I lightly clamp the pipes together with U clamps after marking a line across the joints. (in case it moves some during transport). Then take it up to a shop to get them welded. Any final fine-adjustments the shop can make as they weld.

OE hangers are nice to use, there's considerable adjustment you can make with them (before welding mostly). Never 'load' the exhaust to get it where you want, over time it just rips the hangers off.

The approach has worked well for me over the years.

Personal tip: Always put an O2 bung on. You can plug it, but if you ever want to go efi, that part is done. Can be used for wide band tuning too.


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[Half-Inch Stud]

Hacksaw for cutting EXH pipes. Donta own a sawzall.

Muscle effort and the hard way are my choice, to get the exercise.

[HWYSTR455]

I get that, but it's tough to get a good, square cut with a saw or wheel. By the time you get to one end or the other, it can stack up.


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[Shiny]

Originally Posted by Half-Inch Stud

Hacksaw for cutting EXH pipes. Donta own a sawzall.

Muscle effort and the hard way are my choice, to get the exercise.

Understood and agree the exercise is good. But I can't keep a hacksaw moving in a straight line.

This:

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

I get that, but it's tough to get a good, square cut with a saw or wheel. .....

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Tailpipes look like they are pointing at an angle downward, not sure you will be able to adjust them much, if at all.

You can probably get them a little higher, and then use a generic turn-down. You can't put a tip on and make it stay 'angled'....

The tail pipe stubs are actually pointed down a little. I started another thread about options to replace the tips I cut off:

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...errerid=160974

...
I've found the ratcheting ones are the best, and worth it if you do a number of exhaust work over time....

Good to know, thanks.... so buying a used one with worn out wheels is probably stupid.

I do all my exhausts on jack stands laying on my back, Pypes kits for years. I've tried all the cutters, and although the Lisle ones are 'better', but they flex if you tighten them down too hard. And same thing with once the blades start going, you will be 'cussin'....

I lightly clamp the pipes together with U clamps after marking a line across the joints. (in case it moves some during transport). Then take it up to a shop to get them welded. Any final fine-adjustments the shop can make as they weld.

I think I'd have to pay a shop to do this but my priority for now is to just get rid of the giant tips. The rest of the exhaust is in better shape than most of the car. It has glass packs that will have to go away some day so maybe then..

OE hangers are nice to use, there's considerable adjustment you can make with them (before welding mostly). Never 'load' the exhaust to get it where you want, over time it just rips the hangers off.

The approach has worked well for me over the years.

Personal tip: Always put an O2 bung on. You can plug it, but if you ever want to go efi, that part is done. Can be used for wide band tuning too.

All good input, thank you.

Mike

[HWYSTR455]

Yeah not a good idea to buy a used ratcheting type. Even if you replace the cutters the 'frame' may be loose/worn out. It's 'best' to start with a new one, but if it's cheap enough, and you can hold it in your hand and tell if it's good or not, than maybe.

Will take a look at the other thread, but thinking just some temporary generic turn-downs is your best bet.

If you switch over to a tail valance with cutouts, that would give you more options, especially in the future.



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[HWYSTR455]

I was thinking. You can cut a slot across a pipe, push it together and weld it, to come up or correct off angles.

Just throwing that out there...


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[Shiny]

Yes, I suspect that's where I'm headed, thanks.

The stub doesn't have much clamp length because of the welded hanger so I will probably have to weld whatever I do to keep it from falling off. I will likely start with a clamp-on straight section so yes, slits would let me tilt it up or down. I'm literally headed out to take a measurement, will update the other thread.

And the valance with cutouts would be fun but that's a bigger project than I want right now. Priority is a mess on the quarter panel I've been putting off for 20 years.

Thanks again for the help!

Mike

[NeighborsComplaint]

Your local muffler shop can cut them off for less than the cost of the tool. Unless you more exhaust mods planned, why bother? They can tack weld your new tips on also.

[jww]

I had one of the Snap On chain cutters. It was ok for a while but will say it’s the only Snap On tool I ever threw in the trash!!