[VCho455]

Originally Posted by jhein

Maybe I'll be in luck. The forecast just improved for the next week, it'll be in the 60s then after that 50s

We've had a pretty nice fall this year. I know I've been accused of abandoning the wife on nice days to run over to the Pontiac Motorsports Patio and work on my Firebird.

[73ta]

I'm running a walbro 450 pump in baffled tanks tank. 1/2" aluminum lines to aeromotive regulator upfront by carb, Running the Pypes crossflow muffler. It's tight but I insulated the lines by the muffler. Have hardline couplings by the tank passenger side to disconnect for tank removal.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by 73ta

I'm running a walbro 450 pump in baffled tanks tank. 1/2" aluminum lines to aeromotive regulator upfront by carb, Running the Pypes crossflow muffler. It's tight but I insulated the lines by the muffler. Have hardline couplings by the tank passenger side to disconnect for tank removal.

Got any pics? What side did you run the feed & return lines?

[HWYSTR455]

As a tip, you can use the Aeromotive filter brackets, they make 2 or 3 sizes, I've used the 2" one for my Holley filters.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-12701

They are nice bc you can easily slip the filter housing out to replace the filter element. I use AN hose with a little bit of slack to allow it to slip out.



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[HWYSTR455]

I did a sheet metal bracket for the regulator, and hung it behind the intake.

Here's a pic of the fuel line runs too. I also did a hard line for the rear coolant hose, which cleaned a lot of that stuff up.


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[73ta]

Originally Posted by 78w72

Got any pics? What side did you run the feed & return lines?

Both lines run down passenger side. I'll look for pics and post if I can find some.

[jhein]

Ok, I made a little more progress today. Question on the fuel pump block off plate. I was planning on using Ultra Black RTV. It looks like they used RTV between the pump and the gasket but nothing between the gasket and the timing cover. What do you guys do?

[HWYSTR455]

I just use the paper gasket with gasgacinch. That thing for me stays on until I need to repaint the timing cover, and they usually don't leak.

Make as little of a mess as you can I guess.


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[78w72]

I use ultra black on both side of most gaskets, just a small bead thinned out with your finger, then assemble parts & snug bolts, then let cure per instructions on tube then do final torque. In areas where there is oil its added insurance and has never caused any problems... be sure its not too thick to ooze out inside the engine.

You can use it on just 1 side to help adhere to the part like valve covers etc that may need to be removed, but most paper gaskets will tear after being installed for a long time anyways so no reason to not use it on both sides for most for a better seal, especially if the part has pitting from rust or corrosion.

Nothing wrong with using no rtv/sealer or using another type or just on 1 surface, but I have found many times that the ultra black will allow most gaskets to be reused as its more of a flexible film that will release than drying rock hard like gasgacinch or indian head etc.

[jhein]

Another update.

All of the electrical wiring has been run. I'm putting the relay and circuit breaker on the front of the driver side inner wheel well near the battery. Better access than on the back side and still low profile.

All the factory plumbing is gone from the tank to the pump. I had to cut the front fuel lines to get them out. I don't see how that could be done otherwise with the engine still in the car.

Getting the old tank straps out with the transverse muffler (Pypes system) was a struggle but it's done. I've started on putting in the new straps which will also be a fight but I think I'll prevail.

After that, it's just locating the cut out for the access door and then running the fuel lines. I'm practically home free. LOL.

[MatthewKlein]

Originally Posted by jhein

Thanks for that. The Blue Sea stuff looks nice. It looks like a nicer piece than what I ordered. I'll pick one of those up.

I am running a return line.

I'm a little bit worried about the tank. I hope I don't have fit or access problems with the transverse muffler. It's a Pypes exhaust, not factory so we'll see.

This is a TanksInc install in a 67 Chevelle. Used a Napa 3311 fuel filter and SURR quick connect fittings/Nylon hose. Maybe it can give you some ideas. 3/8" from tank to regulator pressure and return. 1/2" regulator to carb.

[jhein]

Metal lines look really nice and they're definitely better than hose. I may upgrade one day but for now I'm gonna stick with my current plan and just get this done.

Those fittings are pretty cool.

[jhein]

OK, I've resumed the project. I got the pump and tube sender all ready to go.

Some frustration. The 1/4 NPT to 8AN fittings I have will not fit to the pump. The nut is too big. So I need something to extend past the mounting plate, either some combination of NPT couplings or use a 1/4 NPT to 6AN then a 6 to 8 AN adapter. All of the above is on the way so I'll see what works best.

Also, I got the tank straps into the hangers but as much as I tried, there's no way I can get the bolts/screws in with the transverse muffler that I have. I've tried using a pry bar to get clearance but I can't get it. So I need some shorter screws/bolts. I think I can find something at my local ACE hardware store, they have a decent stock of fasteners so hopefully that will work out.

I welcome any suggestions/advice on either problem...

[chuckies76ta]

Beautiful car. I love the style of the 70-73 cars. Thanks for posting your updates. I'm curious if the engine pulls to 6000 rpm when done. I quickly read over the posts, never seen any mention of any fuel filters.
You probably have a filter sock with that pump. My understanding is a 10 micron before Carb.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by jhein

OK, I've resumed the project. I got the pump and tube sender all ready to go.

Some frustration. The 1/4 NPT to 8AN fittings I have will not fit to the pump. The nut is too big. So I need something to extend past the mounting plate, either some combination of NPT couplings or use a 1/4 NPT to 6AN then a 6 to 8 AN adapter. All of the above is on the way so I'll see what works best.

...

Yes, I've run into this too, the fittings on the pump assembly are too close to the plate, and an AN -8 fitting doesn't clear.

I used brass extension tubes and elbows, kinda ugly, but you can also get an adapter to go to 1/2 flare, and flare some hard line to clear the plate/tank.

If you use hard line, think it would be best to brace the ends of lines, but shouldn't be too difficult. Or use steel line.


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[HWYSTR455]

Don't use the tanks inc vent, they smell and splash fuel when you jam on the brakes.

I use the OE separator/standpipe, and just let it vent to air, I get no smell or leakage doing that.

Just hook the one vent line from tank to the 'Center vent pipe to fuel tank' nipple and leave all the others open, it won't leak.



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[HWYSTR455]

Where are the strap bolts hitting? Not understanding where the interference is. Maybe a pic would help?



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[grivera]

Originally Posted by jhein

OK, I've resumed the project. I got the pump and tube sender all ready to go.

Some frustration. The 1/4 NPT to 8AN fittings I have will not fit to the pump. The nut is too big. So I need something to extend past the mounting plate, either some combination of NPT couplings or use a 1/4 NPT to 6AN then a 6 to 8 AN adapter. All of the above is on the way so I'll see what works best.

Also, I got the tank straps into the hangers but as much as I tried, there's no way I can get the bolts/screws in with the transverse muffler that I have. I've tried using a pry bar to get clearance but I can't get it. So I need some shorter screws/bolts. I think I can find something at my local ACE hardware store, they have a decent stock of fasteners so hopefully that will work out.

I welcome any suggestions/advice on either problem...

It will be easier to run the lines if you extend the fittings out some - here’s the tank in my 66

[jhein]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Where are the strap bolts hitting? Not understanding where the interference is. Maybe a pic would help?

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It's the two small bolts at the front of the tank where the straps hook into the body. The space between there and the muffler is very tight. It was difficult to get them out and impossible to get them back in. Using a pry bar, I can barely get the muffler to move, not enough to get the bolt in. I'm sure that 1/4" shorter bolt will do the trick if I can find one.

[jhein]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Don't use the tanks inc vent, they smell and splash fuel when you jam on the brakes.

I use the OE separator/standpipe, and just let it vent to air, I get no smell or leakage doing that.

Just hook the one vent line from tank to the 'Center vent pipe to fuel tank' nipple and leave all the others open, it won't leak.



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Do you have a source for that?