[P@blo]

Looks like a cast steel 455 crank with full groove bearings. Do you have a bearing part number?

Congrats on the new progress as well Scott.

[scott70]

Originally Posted by P@blo

Looks like a cast steel 455 crank with full groove bearings. Do you have a bearing part number?

Congrats on the new progress as well Scott.

Thanks.Looks like ms667pstd for the mains

[scott70]

Is there quite a difference between a connecting rod that weighs 765 versus 812 as far as rotational mass?

[mysticmissle]

Originally Posted by scott70

Got the engine home today, they had to replace a rear main seal and pan gasket from a leak on the Dino ,ran it for a a total of a couple of hours on the Dino. Don’t see any leaks so that’s good. Here’s the old bearings that came out of it from the 2019 rebuild. I was hoping they’d look a little better.. The engine doesn’t get babied

has this been line honed? studs or bolts and what rpm do you baby it too

[scott70]

Originally Posted by mysticmissle

has this been line honed? studs or bolts and what rpm do you baby it too

I believe it has been align honed looking at old paper work. Factory bolts on the main caps. 5500 rpm ,,, just saying I have no problem shifting it there when the mood strikes,,, which happens often lol.

[scott70]

Just looking at a few things before I put the engine in the car. There was a leak in the back after the Dino run so they put another main seal and replace the pan gasket. The guy told me they just ended up pulling the crank right back out of it again. Then they put it back on the Dino and didn’t make any pull's ,They just ran it on and off about two hours. Don’t see any more leaks. I just pulled a couple plugs to see what they look like. I think they were running it on on 110 fuel. NGKXR 45 plugs. When I was there, it made best power at 32 total. The other two hours after that, I’m not sure.
Also, I noticed the gap is like upper 50s for this XR 45V Groove. Specs on Line says they come at .059. I always run my plugs between 40 and 45. Should I regap these tighter? These are the plugs at the machine shop put in. I’ve always run auto light 85 for years and have no problem. But they hard to find now. Msd RTR dist.

[HWYSTR455]

Dyno. Dyno. It's not the Flintstone's pet! Heheh!

Even MSD when using one of their' CD boxes comments that gaps need to be experimented with, there is no 'perfect' or set gap for all engines.

I run all my gaps at .035, period. The wider the gap, it taxes coils and other ignition components, and can actually make the hotter/bigger spark more prone to det/pre-ignition. The end of strap can get super heated.

Many plugs have a denotion, like a -11, -whatever, and those have an out of box gap. If you try to use a plug with a wide gap and gap it to a smaller gap, the strap can be off center, or not as large of a contact area for the spark. It becomes the 'edge' of the strap facing the electrode like' \.' that. When it should be like ' -.' this. If you get what I'm trying to say.

Many times when vendors list plugs they don't list the denotion, and you get what you get, basically, whatever is easier to source, cheaper. Most plugs have secondary part numbers, like NGK has a 4 digit after number.

Example, BR7ES, can be a -11 (.060 gap) or other 4 digit number like 5122 or 6615.

Usually that means the strap/gap is either .032 or .059.

NGKXR 45 4536 is the .059 gap. You would have to get a diff part number for an .032 gap. the closest one is the XR4 5858 which comes with a .039 gap. That would be a better option than trying to gap an XR45 to .035 or .040. Or even .045.


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[HWYSTR455]

The yellow on those plugs is most likely from additives, maybe change your gas.

I always use Top Tier gas, which is a standard, and if a gas station doesn't meet the standard don't use it.

https://stationfinder.toptiergas.com/

Also, the specs on that plug, spots, 'appears' to be pre-ignition or det. Could also mean a weak spark, which MIGHT be from too large a gap.

Experiment.


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[scott70]

My post was using voice text,,I didnt feel like typing it all out. I say dyno and it spells it dino...lol. Oh well. I havent run it in the car yet so the coloring is from the 110 gas I believe they ran it on after they fixed the seal leak. When I was there we ran it at 32 total and a mix of Av fuel and 93 octane. I should try another plug then instead of the ones they put in.

[Jay S]

They used pretty hot spark plugs, if I am not mistaken that is a 4 heat range, which is a hot stock heat range plug, NGK the lower the number the hotter the plug. The hottest I would use is a 5.

Like HWYSTR455 said, that one plug with the speck’s on it has signs of some kind of issue. I’d have to see it closer to call it detonation, but it has some odd patterns from something.

[scott70]

9.75. -1 ,,, 170 psi of cylinder pressure and running the fuel we were shouldn’t have detonation should it? When I first arrived for the dyno day they had made previous runs and finally got the dist. problem figured out by buying another one. I actually shipped out the dist today back to msd to figure out what’s wrong with it. Dyno day I asked what the total was and he said 36. . I said back it down because none of my engines have liked that much. We ended up at 32 but he had made all the previous runs more than that. I can’t handle anymore engine issues…. lol. I’ll have to pull the other 6 plugs tomorrow and see what they look like.

Was the autolite 85 a better choice? They’re a range 5 I believe. Back in the day I used r44s and that’s a range 4.

Looking at the butler website they offer Ngk plugs from range 6 to 9 in 71 and earlier cast iron heads. The plugs in mine sound too hot. They recommend going as cold as possible without fouling. Sounds like I should at least have a ngk r5670-6?

[Jay S]

I run a 7 heat range NGK on my TA with iron heads. I’d pick 6 heat range on your engine, but a 5 or the Autolite 85 would work.

I have had several pump gas engines that would barely even run with a stockish 4 heat range. To hot a plug on a performance engine is not helpful. It was a good thing they had some type of blended race gas for the dyno pulls.

[scott70]

I dont see a vpower ngk 13/16 " resistor type range 6. They have NGK Series Spark Plugs XR5(3332) thats resistor. Or the NGK-R5670-6 Spark Plug Set/8 NGK-2746-8 but thats non resistor and would probably give my radio static? For a 1970 iron head. Or a autolite AP86?

Thats all I need is to have engine damage already. If I stuck a camera in the spark plug hole would there be anything visual if there was damage?

[HWYSTR455]

AVGAS, that makes sense, I would bet the yellow is from the additive in the AVGAS.

I'm not a fan of running AVGAS, the additives were not made for ground level gas engines, and do more harm than good.

You might not be getting det, but you will be more prone to pre-ignition if the plug is too hot. I would consider a 2 step colder plug and go from there.

Yes, the XR5 3332 is an appropriate choice, as is anything that crosses from an AC R43S, like a Champion RJ18YC. If you're still in a testing phase, you can run the standard Autolite plugs like the Autolite 83.

I get pretty frustrated at time with NGK nomenclature, a lot of their' stuff translates to 'in between' heat ranges, like they go 1.5-2 steps in either direction, so they really don't cross right. When I ran iron heads, I always used either the AC R43S or the 44.


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[RAIIIJudge]

FWIW. Scott, we have similar builds, I'm a little over 10:1 cr w/ iron heads and manifolds .. my builder put autolite 86s in my motor.
except for when I disconnected the choke pull off, since I'm currently not running a choke so don't need it .. doh , I haven't experienced any knocking and I check my plugs often. 93 octane, 32* total but motor made most power at 34*.

congrats on getting motor finished,
m

[scott70]

I wanted to go 2 steps colder from the xr4 so I ordered the ngk 5670-6. Only thing is they’re non resistor.. If they foul then I can go xr5,, if they don’t foul I should be good and safe.

The coloring is probably from whatever fuel they used for the 2 hours of run time after the dyno day…. I’m assuming 110. On the dyno , previous to me showing up ,they had been running 110 gas and I brought a mixture to try of av and 93. The mixed gas made a little more power than the 110 and the mixed is what I use on the street . It had a rear main seal leak on the dyno so after I left they tore it apart and installed another rear main seal, put it back on the dyno and ran it on and off for two hours to make sure the rear rear main did not leak this time.. I’m going to pull the rest of the plugs today and take some pictures

Ramair judge…Autolite 86 sounds like a cross over to the ngk xr4. I had good luck with the 85 but they don’t make them anymore. I’m assuming you wanna run a plug as cold as you can without fouling?

[scott70]

Plug pics…I asked, for the 2 hours of testing for the rear main leak they used 110 sunoco

[scott70]

Piston pics

[scott70]

Another plug pic

[HWYSTR455]

Yeah that is definitely something in the gas. Those are the new plugs?

On a positive note, if those were new plugs, now the specs appear to just be areas that whatever crap was in the gas didn't stick to, and doesn't look like det/pre-ignition.

Did the leak get fixed?



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