[Transamric]

I will be repainting my '71's inner fenders and radiator support soon. Haven't had to do this semi-gloss shade of black in several years now, and the products I used to use no longer exist. What have you guys found that is a good match for that underhood semi-gloss black?

[78w72]

If youre using a spray can... krylon satin is an excellent sheen & good quality paint, have used it on many parts under the hood etc, goes on smooth, dries fast & holds up to engine heat or debris from under the car.

Or if using spray gun, lots of options for brands, just ask for a color chart to show the sheen you want.

[OG68]

X2 Krylon Satin

[67Lemons]

X3 Krylon satin, I’ve also used Rustoleum satin and like that as well.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by 67Lemons

X3 Krylon satin, I’ve also used Rustoleum satin and like that as well.

Rustoleum is a good quality spray can or crush on paint.... only issue is that it takes a lot longer to dry, like 2 hours to the touch & overnight to 24hrs to be fully cured. And it is always on the glossier side, their semi gloss looks like other brands gloss.

But if cure time doesnt matter then its a good option, just do a test spot to see if you like the sheen.

Another option but more expensive is Eastwood paints, I tried some of their chassis black I think its called, good paint but for a fraction of the price and available locally, the Krylon satin black looks just as good IMO.

[skunkwerks]

Spray gun DP90LF is the best and very resistant to chemicals since it is 2K. Pefect color match in my opinion.

Spray can is Tuff Coat I think it's from O reilly's in Lacquer. Not very resilient but looks good.

[SRGN]

Originally Posted by skunkwerks

Spray gun DP90LF is the best and very resistant to chemicals since it is 2K. Pefect color match in my opinion.

Spray can is Tuff Coat I think it's from O reilly's in Lacquer. Not very resilient but looks good.

DP90LF is an epoxy primer, that's why it holds up. 2k just means it's 2 parts, base and hardener. I don't use that since they went LF(lead free) in the 90s. There's better options without the PPG price tag.

[71GP76TA]

I prefer Duplicolor when it comes to rattle cans. It seems to lay down the best..

[71HOT/A]

DP90 would be my first choice. Very durable. Reduced 20-30% gives a nice semi gloss sheen. Yes it is expensive. One of the most, you get what you pay for products, I’ve ever used.

[skunkwerks]

Originally Posted by SRGN

DP90LF is an epoxy primer, that's why it holds up. 2k just means it's 2 parts, base and hardener. I don't use that since they went LF(lead free) in the 90s. There's better options without the PPG price tag.

What better option brand are you thinking? I'm all ears for better and cheaper.
Please expound on this. Maybe I can try a new one that works.
They all seem to go chalky black over time Except for the PPG.
You get what you pay for.
All my high dollar resto's get PPG everything until I find something better.

LF works just as good as the leaded product. Still have both and use the leaded on certain items.
2K is an acronym for 2 part. I think we all know it's an epoxy primer.

[SRGN]

Originally Posted by skunkwerks

What better option brand are you thinking? I'm all ears for better and cheaper.
Please expound on this. Maybe I can try a new one that works.
They all seem to go chalky black over time Except for the PPG.
You get what you pay for.
All my high dollar resto's get PPG everything until I find something better.

LF works just as good as the leaded product. Still have both and use the leaded on certain items.
2K is an acronym for 2 part. I think we all know it's an epoxy primer.

Try southern polyurethane epoxy primer. Their stuff has replaced PPG in my garage, their clear coat is excellent as well. Does not get chalky after time like you have seen with others. I still use PPG base, I always liked Deltron for color match. The SPI stuff is great, all I need now is something that works as well as the old lead filled Imron for frames and I'll be set

['ol Pinion head]

Under hood black on 2nd Gens is NOT all the same gloss level.
Inner fenders & core support had a higher degree of gloss to them
than the face of the cowl, and for that matter DP90. So did numerous
supplemental parts like the '73, & '74-75 fender bars.

[Transamric]

Originally Posted by 'ol Pinion head

Under hood black on 2nd Gens is NOT all the same gloss level.
Inner fenders & core support had a higher degree of gloss to them
than the face of the cowl, and for that matter DP90. So did numerous
supplemental parts like the '73, & '74-75 fender bars.

Totally agree! Most of these black parts were enamel water dipped which is why on untouched original parts you will see dried drips, sags and runs.
Radiator supports were dipped, but not positive about inner skirts whether they were dipped or sprayed.
I love to pop a hood on a restored GM car and see different gloss levels on different items. "My kind 'O guy!"

[Transamric]

Used to use DP90 and liked the end results. Can't find it or L.F. anywhere anymore. For poof cans used Eastwoods Underhood Black. Very black and close semi-gloss finish. But mars SUPER easy. Even just doing normal dust removal cleaning leaves scratches. Krylon Satin Black (or Semi-Gloss) to my eyes is not very black. More charcoal looking and not enough gloss.
Have recently tried Rustoleum 2X Ultra-Cover Semi-gloss. Very black and decent semi gloss. But takes forever to cure. Small parts can be oven cured to speed up the process but big pieces are a pain to handle for almost 24 hours.

Thanks for all the input.