[ZeGermanHam]

Got a pair of Doug's Headers for my '66 GTO in the mail today. They have some pretty big dents in the primary tubes where they shaped them into the flanges. I know from watching the header bashing episode of Engine Masters that these dents won't hurt performance in any way, but... Are these dents normal for Doug's Headers?

[tom s]

They were put in before plating?Maybe to help get the bolts started?Tom

[mf67gto]

I'm finally installing my Dougs on the '67 GTO w/E round ports since I could not get the RA manifolds. They clear the block, motor mount, and bellhousing well, but on the passenger side you can see the #6 tube is right against the frame at the top at the radius of the frame where the blue tape is. I really do not want to ding it and I have not fitted the driver side yet per instruction to do Passenger first. The mounts are "new" NAPA and have been sitting in the box for 35 years. If I were to put a washer under each motor mount bolt between block and mount it would move it over enough, but I think I should test fit the driver side first to see where I am. Anyone else have this problem? Body is of frame now as well. Had to move a brake line slightly and if the engine moved to the drivers side just a bit it would work great. Also have the 1/4" spacers under the frame mounts so the Canton oil pan would clear the center link. Also those are remflex gaskets (.160") thick vs the suppled Doug's gaskets which looks like about .060" thick. That will be my first try here with thinner gaskets. That .100' might do it.

Not sure if that washer idea will cause me other problems.

And ZeGermanHam - mine have the dimples for the bolts as well.

Feedback & experience appreciated.

Dougs install 1 by Matt Fronk, on Flickr

[67ramair4]

Originally Posted by mf67gto

I'm finally installing my Dougs on the '67 GTO w/E round ports since I could not get the RA manifolds. They clear the block, motor mount, and bellhousing well, but on the passenger side you can see the #6 tube is right against the frame at the top at the radius of the frame where the blue tape is. I really do not want to ding it and I have not fitted the driver side yet per instruction to do Passenger first. The mounts are "new" NAPA and have been sitting in the box for 35 years. If I were to put a washer under each motor mount bolt between block and mount it would move it over enough, but I think I should test fit the driver side first to see where I am. Anyone else have this problem? Body is of frame now as well. Had to move a brake line slightly and if the engine moved to the drivers side just a bit it would work great. Also have the 1/4" spacers under the frame mounts so the Canton oil pan would clear the center link. Also those are remflex gaskets (.160") thick vs the suppled Doug's gaskets which looks like about .060" thick. That will be my first try here with thinner gaskets. That .100' might do it.

Not sure if that washer idea will cause me other problems.

And ZeGermanHam - mine have the dimples for the bolts as well.

Feedback & experience appreciated.

Dougs install 1 by Matt Fronk, on Flickr

What is the part number? D567? If so I've had a set since for years and don't have those issues! How thick is the flange at the heads? Mine measured 7.45 MM.

Jake

[66sprint6]

I'm watching ths thread with great interest, as I will likely be going with the Doug's round port 567's also. I see on their website that the flanges are 3/8", or .375", which is 9.525mm

[HWYSTR455]

I am NOT happy with my last set of Doug's 522 for my 71, had to massage them in a couple spots, are so close to the frame in a couple others they contact on uneven surfaces while driving, the collectors did NOT point straight back, and were different heights.

Sadly, with less than 1k miles, I'm going to have to replace them. Super Comps for me next, fingers crossed.

.

[ZeGermanHam]

Yes, the dents were put in prior to the ceramic coating process. The bolt clearance idea is not something I had considered. Hmmm...

[mf67gto]

Update - thinner gasket did not help. Installed driver side and plenty of room along the frame rail but will require a little grinding on the lower control arm support. See the two pictures. Looks like engine needs to move toward Driver side a bit, grind some clearance on driver lower control arm mt and passenger side will be all set.

Anyone else need to shift engine over like this on a 54 yr old car??
Thanks

Dougs install 4 by Matt Fronk, on Flickr

Dougs install 3 by Matt Fronk, on Flickr

[Skip Fix]

Probably bolt access. I increased the ones in my Hookers before coating.

[MUSLCAH]

When my headders rot out….Iam going with the Ram Air Manifolds….Headders Suck…But you don’t know they suck if you Nevah had them.

[ID67goat]

My Doug's don't have any dents in them, but then again they were purchased probably 15 years ago,and maybe for the newer ones this is normal?

[mf67gto]

Yes the measurement is right at 1-1/2" so we are good there.

The frame mounts were pretty tight on the bolts as I remember. Fortunately the body is off the car so it is pretty easy to pull these on and off. I'm going to try some shims under the pass motor mt to block interface and see if that will move it over and see what the pass side looks like. I have see others have to grind that lower control arm mount to get some clearance.

The up/down is not the problem - it is side to side. I'll keep all posted on outcome in the case it helps someone else. I'm wondering how those Ames torq lock mounts might work if anyone has expereince with them?

[ZeGermanHam]

I contacted the tech team at Doug's (Pertronix) to inquire about the dents, and they said they are for bolt clearance. ID67goat, since your older ones don't have them, maybe they added that "feature" somewhere along the way.

[vertigto]

I can understand the need for 'clearance', but it looks cheesy.

[taktikian]

I agree-it does not look the way I would want it to look. Does anybody know if Hooker does the same thing. Thanks,Paul

[punkin]

Originally Posted by taktikian

I agree-it does not look the way I would want it to look. Does anybody know if Hooker does the same thing. Thanks,Paul

My super comp D ports on 68 bird had a couple similar dimples...brand new 1 & 7/8" doug's are the same.

[ZeGermanHam]

Originally Posted by vertigto

I can understand the need for 'clearance', but it looks cheesy.

I agree with you, which is why I raised an eyebrow when looking at them for the first time. Wasn't expecting to see such crude dents on a $760 pair of headers...

[Skip Fix]

All of my Hooker and Hedman have the dimples where the tube is close to the bolt hole. My Hookers #1 rear bolt and #5 bolts are the worse to get to and needed a bigger dimple to even get a wrench on. I have custom ground on boxed end and the #5 you have to use a hex head and and open end ground thin.My old 70s Hooker 409 header still have a bolt stuck in the flange the dimple was not big enough to get it out easily.

My $2000 SS copies of Hookers also have dimples!

Try sliding the bolt in the flanges and you will probably see why they have dimples!

[ZeGermanHam]

Thanks for the reassurance, Skip. You're totally right - I'd have found out why the dimples exist eventually!

[ta man]

I had to massage my new set of Dougs on my 80 trans am with d ports.