[J.C.you]

Originally Posted by RAIV-Z

Has anyone else tried this McCarty/BES head bolt cooling mod? It does look much easier to do than running external coolant lines. I have serious doubts it’s actually going to work though.

Yes that is a head bolt you can see through the opening in the intake port.

Run it.......i would be more concerned about the log in the middle of the port rather than cutting thru a small amount at the head bolt.

Not to discredit...but why is the area around the head bolt darkened compared to the rest of the port wall that was hit with the common sand roll?

[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by J.C.you

Run it.......i would be more concerned about the log in the middle of the port rather than cutting thru a small amount at the head bolt.

Not to discredit...but why is the area around the head bolt darkened compared to the rest of the port wall that was hit with the common sand roll?

Discredit who? I’m not sure why it looks like that either. Below are additional shots of some of the other ports.

[T Syron]

Maybe you should post a few of those pictures on yellowbullet...guaranteed BES or someone who works for them or knows them follows the bullet.

I would like to their response on the main cap pictures.

Tom Syron

[GTO Dan]

Originally Posted by GTO Dan

I really hope this all works out for you. You deserve a break, this gets worse everytime you post.

Are you certain that the engine wasn't delivered as is to BES and they just dynoed and tuned it?

Have you heard back from BES or are they not responding to you because Lynn was their client on this engine and not you? Did you pay BES directly or through Lynn? Did you work with them directly or through Lynn?

[John Langer]

I have been running that exact same head bolt cooling mod since around 2003. If you sleve the bolt hole it would be more of a protrusion then the bolt itself. As far as the numbering of the main caps, I highly doubt that they remachined a thrust bearing cap and that the caps were just numbered incorrectly from the manufacturer.

[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by John Langer

I have been running that exact same head bolt cooling mod since around 2003. If you sleve the bolt hole it would be more of a protrusion then the bolt itself. As far as the numbering of the main caps, I highly doubt that they remachined a thrust bearing cap and that the caps were just numbered incorrectly from the manufacturer.

The head bolt cooling mod was only done to one of the V heads. Did you have this done to both of yours?

Seriously John, are you saying this should be a non-issue? Should the opening be cleaned up so the material around the opening is thick enough so it doesn’t flake off?

This is my first aftermarket block, are the main caps stamped by the MFG?
I agree, I doubt BES re-machined the thrust bearing cap.

[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by GTO Dan

Have you heard back from BES or are they not responding to you because Lynn was their client on this engine and not you? Did you pay BES directly or through Lynn? Did you work with them directly or through Lynn?

Nothing back yet, I wouldn’t expect a response until at least Monday. BES was paid via Lynn. I talked to Tony a few times early on and then after the engine was delivered regarding some of issues with the heads and valve train. I worked mainly through Lynn.

[65nss4spdGTO]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

Not a big fan of stamping delicate engine parts like connecting rods or main caps. If I stamp them, which I do sometimes, plan on resizing the housing bores. At a minimum, check therm before use. Stamping will distort them, especially aluminum rods. I much prefer using an engraver. Just another little trick I learned from the best, Joe Mondello and a few other "old timers". It's all about the details.

X2

I started engraving the last three digits of the block serial number on the caps just to make sure they don't get interchanged.

The newer IA-II caps are all drilled with two bolt bosses, I'll mount a fixture to assist in pulling the caps off.

I've seen a few cast caps crack because someone used the sledgehammer method or pulled up one side much more than the other.

Things happen when building custom race engine. IMO, it's how the company communicates and helps to resolve the issues that's most important.

Calvin Hill
Hill Performance
708-250-7420

[John Langer]

Originally Posted by RAIV-Z

The head bolt cooling mod was only done to one of the V heads. Did you have this done to both of yours?

Seriously John, are you saying this should be a non-issue? Should the opening be cleaned up so the material around the opening is thick enough so it doesn’t flake off?

This is my first aftermarket block, are the main caps stamped by the MFG?
I agree, I doubt BES re-machined the thrust bearing cap.

Yes, it is a non issue. I have had bolts that look almost like your push rod tubes in the side of my port. If it is on one of the heads and not the other it would be due to core shift. Again, no big deal. I have even had this on the exhaust side. Those bolts will experience alot of heat.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by 65nss4spdGTO

X2

I started engraving the last three digits of the block serial number on the caps just to make sure they don't get interchanged.

Calvin Hill
Hill Performance
708-250-7420

I engrave "BE" on the #2 Cap. (Only need to mark one of them). The "E" points to the front of the engine.

You should know where the Rear Main Cap, the Thrust Main Cap, and the Front Main Cap go automatically. The only possible error would be mixing #2 and #3 and/or (putting them on backward. I have actually seen that happen).

Tom Vaught

[65nss4spdGTO]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

I engrave "BE" on the #2 Cap. (Only need to mark one of them). The "E" points to the front of the engine.

You should know where the Rear Main Cap, the Thrust Main Cap, and the Front Main Cap go automatically. The only possible error would be mixing #2 and #3 and/or (putting them on backward. I have actually seen that happen).

Tom Vaught

I mark them to match the block serial number as I've had as many as four different builds going on using the same style block.

Calvin Hill
Hill Performance
708-250-7420

[RAIV-Z]

I talked to a few people including Tony and Bob C. regarding the main caps. The general consensus is that although the hammer marks are ugly they will not weaken the main caps. We’re not sure how the marks or double stamps got there. Tony is also willing to work with me on some of the other issues.

[cgeise]

That does NOT answer who did that crap -

[RAIV-Z]

Cage is out of the car for final welding.

[taff2]

Shouldn't you have a seat support tube under the driver,from the outer floor tube to the inner floor tube? Looks good though.

[67'7F6'Bird]

Originally Posted by taff2

Shouldn't you have a seat support tube under the driver,from the outer floor tube to the inner floor tube? Looks good though.

Mccarty already put the bar under his seat.

[GTO Dan]

Originally Posted by 67'7F6'Bird

Mccarty already put the bar under his seat.

LOL! Now that is funny, very cleaver.

Truly sorry to hear of RamIV-Z continuing issues and not trying to trivialize his situation ,but your comment really made me laugh.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by 67'7F6'Bird

Mccarty already put the bar under his seat.

Maybe he needed a support rod to go with the Titanium Plate I sent him a while back.

Tom Vaught

[lemans411]

Originally Posted by RAIV-Z

Has anyone else tried this McCarty/BES head bolt cooling mod? It does look much easier to do than running external coolant lines. I have serious doubts it’s actually going to work though.

Yes that is a head bolt you can see through the opening in the intake port.

well everyone else seems to think this is ok and maybe they've had good luck with this but in my experience it has been an issue./

on a set of wenzler heads i had there was one stud that was open into the intake port. i ran it that way for a while and it was fine, but after time oil worked its way into the hole and when i would get on it it would suck that oil into the port and smoke like crazy. i took the head off and had a sleeve put in the hole and the smoking stopped. mine was a bigger opening than your pic shows but i thought it was worth mentioning

[warriors revenge]

many years ago, when Dan Whitmore would do a "race port" job on a set of RA IV heads, he would break thru the pushrod hole, and epoxy a bronze sleeve in there to seal the port up.... the same should be able to be done for a head bolt....
just sayin