[Stan Weiss]

Seems to me that would leave a thin / feathered edge that could peel. I would have them grind the rod journal center line to the stroke I wanted and then chrome back to the correct size journal.

Stan

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by Stan Weiss

Seems to me that would leave a thin / feathered edge that could peel. I would have them grind the rod journal center line to the stroke I wanted and then chrome back to the correct size journal.

Stan

Good call, Stan. Hard chroming is only about .010 thick maximum. Kinda difficult to offset grind .060 with only .010 extra material. A better plan would be to utilize the large SBC rod journal (2.100) and used custom rods.

[Dragncar]

I know how thick a normal chroming is. I was talking to them about adding .125 to the crank. Turning a 4.125 stroke crank into a 4.25 stroke crank. They told me it could be done without welding. leaving the crank in there over the "weekend" so the layer was extra thick and grinding it to size. I am not mistaken about the conversation, I was specific and so was he.
If any issues, call Crankshaft Specialist.

[Stan Weiss]

Don't need to call anybody. I know exactly how the process works. Yes what you have said will work without grinding through the chrome. But the only way it works is if you end up with a larger rod journal diameter than you started with!

Start with a 2.25" rod journal end up with a 2.375" rod journal
Start with a 4.125" stroke end up with a 4.25" stroke.

► (((2.25" + (.125" * 2)) / 2) - ((4.25" - 4.125") / 2)) * 2 = 2.375"

Stan

[slowbird]

I HIGHLY recommend people do there own research/questioning before dealing with Crankshaft Specialty.

[PAUL K]

Originally Posted by slowbird

I HIGHLY recommend people do there own research/questioning before dealing with Crankshaft Specialty.

Why would you say such a thing....he answered the phone every time you called.

[Richie Hoffman]

Originally Posted by slowbird

I HIGHLY recommend people do there own research/questioning before dealing with Crankshaft Specialty.

X2 .

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

I know how thick a normal chroming is. I was talking to them about adding .125 to the crank. Turning a 4.125 stroke crank into a 4.25 stroke crank. They told me it could be done without welding. leaving the crank in there over the "weekend" so the layer was extra thick and grinding it to size. I am not mistaken about the conversation, I was specific and so was he.
If any issues, call Crankshaft Specialist.

BS! First, you can't grind hard chrome with any crank grinding wheel I've ever used. Do you have any idea how hard the hard chroming process actually leaves the journal? We used to occasionally get diesel cranks (marine applications) that had been hard chromed. You had to physically remove the chrome before attempting to regrind the journal. If hard chroming deteriorates, you're looking at a new crank because it can NOT be repeated(unlike nitriding). Tell me: exactly HOW do they propose to have chrome on only ONE side of the journal?When you offset grind a crank, you add material to the bottom side of the stroke to lengthen the stroke. You add material to the top of the stroke to shorten the stroke. The plating process leaves an even thickness of material over the entire surface...

[Dragncar]

I can only tell you what they told me. I asked about it because of the 4.150 stroke billet crank for sale. Did not want that stroke so I called them up. They did a crank for me years ago. He acted like it was not big deal.
I thought it a bit risky for a billet crank, so I did not buy the crank.
Hope your not trying to call me a liar, or thinking I am going to call them and ask your questions.
Call them yourself.
It seemed to me he was speaking about laying on enough chrome and offset grinding the chrome.
I expected them to tell me they would just weld up the crank and offset grind it.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Not calling you a liar, but I've dealt with hard chromed cranks. You grind the crank, then you chrome and polish it. In reality, it's no different than nitriding a crank, just a different medium to induce hardness. If I were you, I'd be calling Henry Velasco or Lunati in Memphis, TN to double check IF this much of an overplate is even possible. In my experience, it isn't. You ever seen what happens when you attempt to grind a crank that is nitrided without annealing the crank first? The grinding wheel literally "bounces" on the surface of the journal. The same thing happens when you attempt to grind a journal that has been hard chromed. It doesn't matter how much coolant flow you have or how slow or fast you "feed" the wheel into the journal: the SOB will NOT cut.

[Dragncar]

Its cool, I have a real good idea of your capability s just from your posts ,as good as they get.
I wonder it it could be spray welded and offset ground without a ton of trouble? I would have to get it real cheap to put a bunch more money in it.

[Tom Vaught]

Originally Posted by hurryinhoosier62

If I were you, I'd be calling Henry Velasco or Lunati in Memphis, TN to double check IF this much of an overplate is even possible.

Anything that Henry Valesco tells you you can take to the bank.
I was told he was trained by Joe Reath (believe Tom S told me that).

Valesco is on your side of the country, Dragncar.

Tom V.

[tom s]

One of the best running engines I have ever had was the 4.125 welded stroker.4.120 bore.If that crank had Pontiac Js I would buy it.Tom

[Jack Gifford]

FYI: Metal-spraying was the "hot tip" back in the mid-fifties- when 400 HP was unheard of. It wasn't very durable, and became a thing-of-the-past as soon as CSC perfected their arc-welded strokers.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by Jack Gifford

FYI: Metal-spraying was the "hot tip" back in the mid-fifties- when 400 HP was unheard of. It wasn't very durable, and became a thing-of-the-past as soon as CSC perfected their arc-welded strokers.

X 2, Jack. Spray welding is a good process to repair cast iron heads and blocks(especially in diesels....minimal preheating required), but when it comes to welding a cast crank submerged arc is the most effective method. A forged crank or billet? TIG but a MIG would be useable as well with the proper speed, wire feed rate ,temp and shielding gas.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Its cool, I have a real good idea of your capability s just from your posts ,as good as they get.
I wonder it it could be spray welded and offset ground without a ton of trouble? I would have to get it real cheap to put a bunch more money in it.

Thanks, but with only just over 2,500 cranks ground I was considered a novice by my co-workers. Many of them had ground 40,000-100,000 cranks.

[kmtw]

I've got 2 cranks with 4" stroke- factory 421 SD 990 cut to 3" forged, and stock cast 428. PM me.

[hurryinhoosier62]

990 forged cranks are just about as good as a forged crank gets...

[Tom Vaught]

990 Cranks have a very distinctive ring to them, excellent steel.
Unfortunately many have been repaired over the years and had hard but good lives.

For "Old School" they were the best from Pontiac, RA-IV SD 400 forged crank would be equal but not necessarily better.

Tom V.