[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

I would think too good down low ...but you have a strong low end cam 🤔 cross that when you get past ignition/tach.
You know what timing set is in it...part #, multi keys get some crossed up

Anyone else have any thoughts 💭

[steve25]

Just note that it is possible to have the firing order wrong and yet not have noticeable back fires and that would limit revs like mad.

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

I would think too good down low ...but you have a strong low end cam 🤔 cross that when you get past ignition/tach.
You know what timing set is in it...part #, multi keys get some crossed up

Anyone else have any thoughts 💭

Timing set on receipt says; PAW 513 Pont Rlr Timing Chn $17

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by TAQuest

Would it run good up to 3200 if the cam was way advanced?
Thanks.

Yes it would...Problem here is that cam should have awesome torque right off idle. Advanced any, within reason, it should be even stronger right off idle. As in, no need to rev it up to make power. Advanced beyond the 105° ICL, power would fall off at higher RPM's BUT it shouldn't quit at 3,200 like it's doing. Unless cam timing is way out of whack.
When cams are WAY OFF, the factory timing mark, on the balancer, usually doesn't match up or work right with where timing has to be set for the engine to run its best.

Clay

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by steve25

Just note that it is possible to have the firing order wrong and yet not have noticeable back fires and that would limit revs like mad.

Checked that. Thanks.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

I would think too good down low ...but you have a strong low end cam �� cross that when you get past ignition/tach.
You know what timing set is in it...part #, multi keys get some crossed up

Anyone else have any thoughts ��

Worked on a 455 years ago that had dots/squares/triangles all mixed up.
It was RPM limited and heated up fast (ran hot) if you reved it or tried to cruise at 3,000 RPM's. Idle to 3,000 was just okay on the power. No where near as strong as it should have been. Lots of loud carb moaning (like the OP's car) but wouldn't go anywhere.

Not saying that's what's wrong here. Just sayin'..

Clay

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

$17....purchased from?
Gears too? 😳

[ta man]

Swap a good module in see what it does.

[steve25]

Take the car somewhere that you can open the headers and then see how it revs.

If this was me I would have pulled the timing cover by now to see what may or may not be going on, just sayin!

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by STEELCITYFIREBIRD

$17....purchased from?
Gears too? ��

PAW...Gone since 2010. And yes they did have full timing sets for cheap cheap. They also had better parts but the prices reflected that.

Clay

[Stan Weiss]

Originally Posted by Stan Weiss

OK, Pull the valve cover so you can see the valves for number 1. Rotate the crank until the mark on the balance lines up with timing mark. Make sure that this is the overlap TDC where both valves are open. If the intake valve is open more than the exhaust valve, the cam is installed to far advanced.

Stan

My Post #95

Stan

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

Worked on a 455 years ago that had dots/squares/triangles all mixed up.
It was RPM limited and heated up fast (ran hot) if you reved it or tried to cruise at 3,000 RPM's. Idle to 3,000 was just okay on the power. No where near as strong as it should have been. Lots of loud carb moaning (like the OP's car) but wouldn't go anywhere.

Not saying that's what's wrong here. Just sayin'..

Clay

Doesn't run hot. What are dots/squares/triangles all mixed up?

[mchell]

No problems loading any video....that’s some crazy chit going on....you sure your exhaust isn’t plugged, air filter plugged etc..?

If not, I’d be checking the valves and cam timing soon...

[TAQuest]

Originally Posted by mchell

No problems loading any video....that’s some crazy chit going on....you sure your exhaust isn’t plugged, air filter plugged etc..?

If not, I’d be checking the valves and cam timing soon...

All this messing around I haven't had the air cleaner on it. It's ram air.

The problem seems too consistent at an RPM to be exhaust plugged.

Always felt like the valves are bouncing.

Have to attend to some work. Will be swapping the module later this afternoon.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by TAQuest

Doesn't run hot. What are dots/squares/triangles all mixed up?

Three keyway timing sets that use the different keyways for straight up, advanced, or retard on cam timing. Cam gear had different dots to be used with each crank keyway. Mixing up dots/squares/triangles would get the cam way out of whack.

Not to be confused with ignition timing.

Degree wheel still needed to be used to make sure everything was right.

Clay

[Stan Weiss]

Originally Posted by steve25

Take the car somewhere that you can open the headers and then see how it revs.

If this was me I would have pulled the timing cover by now to see what may or may not be going on, just sayin!

X2

Stan

[wbnapier]

I had a similar issue, and it ended up being a bad coil. The engine would stop revving at 3500-4000 rpm. Thanks to this forum, I was able to diagnose it properly.

Good luck with this. Lots of good ideas here from knowledgable people.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

I remember PRW well....bought from them......34 years ago. Wish I still had a catalog, handy, for my own use to ID a cam Used in my car.
....I know I have one buried in my Moms basement.
And old magazines with their ads.

If it turns out to be cam timing, a good opportunity to install an appropriate cam too.

😎

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Originally Posted by wbnapier

I had a similar issue, and it ended up being a bad coil. The engine would stop revving at 3500-4000 rpm. Thanks to this forum, I was able to diagnose it properly.

Good luck with this. Lots of good ideas here from knowledgable people.

I’ve run into the same at the track too with coils and modules in the stock car days. Both don’t like excessive heat. Burnt thru cheap rotors were an issue also, but different symptoms.

[Navy Horn 16]

Originally Posted by pastry_chef

I recall you had an interesting issue, in your case a little intermittent.
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...65&postcount=1

What are the odds?

Yea, I was definitely sucking a vacuum on the tank. The Paul Harvey "rest of the story" on that one was that after I fixed the tank issue it was still acting funky when the secondaries would open.

That was being caused because the pin that holds the secondaries in so they can rotate open on that cam had come out. So the secondaries were opening all at once, or not at all, and it was causing hell with my fuel delivery.

My good friends at Quadrijet Performance LLC in Bandera, TX fixed it up for me on a drop in, and it's running good since.