[jhein]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Strongly recommend using same size line for return, especially if you're using a larger pump. You could have an issue where the line won't return enough and you can't get the psi low enough.

I have a 13301 new regulator for sale at the moment:

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=882342

Nice thing on those is that you can simply replace the spring and it will work with EFI too.

Regulators should be as close to the 'load' to maintain psi best.

1/2" hardline routes easier than AN -8 or even -6.

With 'soft' lines in long runs, it is possible to induce pulsing of the fuel. You will know if you see the needle on the gauge fluttering.

.

Yeah, that's what I'm doing. 8AN feed and return from the tank to the firewall. 6AN from the firewall to the carb. I got stalled out a bit because of changing the line size, needed new parts. I got the Raceflux hose and fittings from ANhosefittins.com that FJ uses. That 8AN hose has a OD of only 0.65" and a min bend radius of 3.5" so hopefully routing won't be too bad.

I have all the parts now, except the access door which I've decided will be much easier to do now than later. So I'll be starting today removing the tank and lines.

That Aeromotive regulator looks nice but I got this Holley because the black will be less visible. Hopefully it's OK. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-841

So other than using a different regulator, I'm setting it up pretty much just like FJ has recommended.

[65 Lamnas]

Mine’s not a Tanks Inc. I decided to use Ni-Copp lines for supply and return.....they take up the least space possible and I don't have to worry about the liner of push-lock hose deteriorating. My other choice was going to be PTFE hose, but It's more expensive without much benefit. The Ni-Copp line is VERY easy to work with, flare, and route. I have a '65 Lamnas and am running a 462 with a custom-built Q-jet. I chose a RobbMc regulator and have it mounted on the front of the RH head, as I like to have the regulator as close to the carb as possible. I went with 3/8" line for the supply and 1/2" for the return, and I have the regulator set at 6psi. Since my pump is an Aeromotive 340 in-tank pump, I'm likely bypassing quite a bit of fuel, and so that was my reasoning for the 1/2" return...plenty of flow area.

[Gator67]

Originally Posted by jhein

I have all the parts now, except the access door which I've decided will be much easier to do now than later. So I'll be starting today removing the tank and lines.

Seems like a good time to install some mini tubs

[HWYSTR455]

Those Holley billet regulators are nice, I use them for EFI setups and is all I buy now.

NiCopp is nice too, but they dent/bend/kink easier.

Some complain about cost, but if you're using it for a job you want to last, it's a pretty good choice.

Aluminum works fine too, pretty easy to work with, and you can even get in in colors (anodized). Do want to make sure it's rated to the psi you are needing, but most are over 150 psi burst.

I like using the dipped/coated adel clamps, but there's a number of retainers that can be used. Not sure why it's so tough to find OE style ones in 1/2", but oh well.


.

[HWYSTR455]

The Holley inline billet filters are nice too, but a little pricey. They make diff types of filters too.

EDIT: Looks like they dropped the prices on the filters, some by 35% or more.



.

[jhein]

This post is just to document that I've finally officially started. I'm not going to give a blow by blow because this may take me a little while since I'm not as great a mechanic as most of you guys are. Instead, when I'm done I'll make another thread or continue this one if anyone is interested. But for today, the tank was easy. I had to do a little wrestling with the rear factory lines but I got them out intact without too much trouble. I have the front lines mostly loose but I'm not sure if I can get those out in one piece, I may have to cut one or both of them.

[VCho455]

What options are out there for access doors?

[jhein]

Originally Posted by VCho455

What options are out there for access doors?

I'm just using the Tanks inc door. I did a search and didn't find anything else.

https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...rod/prd544.htm

[Formulajones]

I use the tanks access doors. I've never really researched others because I just put one in the cart when I'm ordering tanks inc stuff so I'm not sure what else may or may not be out there.

I will say I always get the biggest one tanks offers. And I wish it was even bigger.

Reason being is it's nice if you can build the setup in such a way that if you ever need to remove the pump you can unhook the lines and everything else from the access door and pull it all out, and never need to crawl under the car for anything. I always try to think I'm in a road side repair situation when I build this stuff so I can make the repair as easy as possible.

Ive.had to pull a pump out after the fact and have to say the access door is sweet. Doesn't even matter if it's a full tank of gas. Pull it out and swap it is a very easy 30 minute ordeal.

And I used to be the guy that hates cutting floors since I source all my cars from the rust free region of the country but in this case I make an exception. I can easily weld it back up and refinish it like it was never there if I desired.

[HWYSTR455]

I've looked at the Quarter-Max ones before, they have several options:

https://quartermax.com/shop-all-depa...doors-latches/

I did find others that were intended to be used on campers/trailers, but most didn't have a seal.

I'm sure there's more out there, but I gave up the search after deciding I didn't want to cut a hole in the trunk floor.



.

[jhein]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

I use the tanks access doors. I've never really researched others because I just put one in the cart when I'm ordering tanks inc stuff so I'm not sure what else may or may not be out there.

I will say I always get the biggest one tanks offers. And I wish it was even bigger.

Reason being is it's nice if you can build the setup in such a way that if you ever need to remove the pump you can unhook the lines and everything else from the access door and pull it all out, and never need to crawl under the car for anything. I always try to think I'm in a road side repair situation when I build this stuff so I can make the repair as easy as possible.

Ive.had to pull a pump out after the fact and have to say the access door is sweet. Doesn't even matter if it's a full tank of gas. Pull it out and swap it is a very easy 30 minute ordeal.

And I used to be the guy that hates cutting floors since I source all my cars from the rust free region of the country but in this case I make an exception. I can easily weld it back up and refinish it like it was never there if I desired.

What is your process for locating the cut out? My plan was to make a template out of cardboard and lay it in the trunk. I'm just not sure how close I can get it to where the tank will actually sit.. If I didn't have the transverse muffler, I could mock up the tank then drill a small locating hole to mark the rear of the tank. but I won't have access for that. I guess I could use the template to get a general location then use a hole saw to get an exact location.

I did get the largest one which seems adequate, but tight. I guess you could get two smaller ones and put them next to each other.

Edit: I found this one: https://allstarperformance.com/acces...14in-all18542/

[Formulajones]

I typically pre fit the tank and mark it from the bottom, drill some pilot holes and use that to make a template from the top.

[jhein]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

I typically pre fit the tank and mark it from the bottom, drill some pilot holes and use that to make a template from the top.

Got it. Thanks.

[VCho455]

Originally Posted by jhein

I'm just using the Tanks inc door. I did a search and didn't find anything else.

https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...rod/prd544.htm

Thank you and everyone else for the information. I'm at this point and this is perfect timing for me to install a door.

[VCho455]

A link to some information on installing an access panel.

https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/...le-In-My-Trunk!

[jhein]

I got hit with a virus that wiped me out for the last 6 days. I'm feeling a little better day by day but now cold, wet weather is starting. I'm a fair weather kind of worker so we'll see. Driving season is over so may not get done until spring.

[grivera]

Damn - what are you daily high temperatures this time of year?

[jhein]

Originally Posted by grivera

Damn - what are you daily high temperatures this time of year?

Maybe I'll be in luck. The forecast just improved for the next week, it'll be in the 60s then after that 50s

[R 70 Judge]

Mix of PTFE (-10 feed and -8 return) and hard lines. Showing where I located Holley filter and Motion Raceworks flex fuel sensor/setup.

[jhein]

Originally Posted by R 70 Judge

Mix of PTFE (-10 feed and -8 return) and hard lines. Showing where I located Holley filter and Motion Raceworks flex fuel sensor/setup.

That's really nice looking work you did there. I'm really wishing I didn't have the transverse muffler right now. I will admit that changing that has crossed my mind.